3000 ford injector pump

KYBOB

New User
I think my pump cutoff lever has lost a part. There is a small rod that pops out when I pull the lever that I have never noticed befor. The parts list shows a cap that I have ordered.
The tractor was running fine last season but wont start now.
Any thoughts?
 
I'm assuming you have a Simms inline pump? If so, is the cap you're talking about the rubber boot, #57 in red highlight?

The rod in question is #43, and is pushed out by spring #44. Either the spring is broken, and/or the rod is sticking in the internal bore due to lack of lube. Spraying some penetrating oil inside may help to free this up. Changing the oil inside the pump would go even farther.
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DEFINATLY change the oil.. remove #73 and let it drain, refill from the top,15/16 plug until level w/the "full plug" on the side.
Sounds like the rack is stuck in the shut-off position.. Remove the side cover and see if you can move the rack back and forth.
 
I'm confused ! Should the rod be in the in or out position and does the boot hold it in. The "boot " cost me $15.00 bucks. When I pull the cutoff the rod pops out , when I return to the run position the rod stays out , but when I push it in it as I return the lever to the run position it stays in. Also when I pull the cutoff I can feel movement in the pump. I am getting fuel to the injectors but not enough to get return over flow to the tank. Sorry for my ignorance!!!
 
That rod is the 'excess fuel button'. What it does is push the maximum fuel delivery stop out of line with the fuel rack so it no longer stops the rack's travel... and this allows the rack to travel to maximum extension for cold starting. The way you describe it.. I think it's working correctly and everything is free in the pump.
It seems to me that you have a fuel delivery problem or lack of transfer pressure. I'd start at the filter. Remove that and see if you have flow from the tank. If you don't, trace back and see why not. Install a new filter... then bleed the filter using the hand primer. If it doesn't shoot fuel out the bleeder eventually then you most likely have a bad lift pump. It also helps greatly to make sure you have a FULL tank of fuel so the system will more or less gravity bleed. Once you get fuel from the filter head bleeder, close it up and then open all 3 injector lines at the injectors... and continue hand priming with the throttle advanced and the shutoff pushed in until you get some fuel, then close them up and attempt starting.
Honestly, what I most often do after bleeding the filter head is just crank and feed it some ether with the throttle wide open... and be QUICK to knock the throttle back or shut it off if it takes off too violently.

Rod
 
Took the filter out of the picture, direct from tank to a new fuel pump . I am getting fuel to the injectors but not enough to come out of the overflow line to the tank. I get white smoke and ocasionally black but no fire. Tried to pull it to start and no luck, looks like it's to a machanic shop for me.
 
Should the rod be in the in or out position? I have never noticed the rod protuding out of the kill lever befor. It is out past the lever about 1/2 in when out and about 1/8 when in. It pops out when the kill lever is pulled. I am getting fuel to the injector but not enough to overflow back to the tank. Could it be that the lever is not working so as to give excess fuel for a cold start?
 
KYBOB,
Rod is OUT when engine is running.

Cold start procedure is to push in kill lever.
Advance throttle to full open (max speed).
Push in button on lever pivot. (I always heard a distinctive sound "TINK")
Start engine and pull throttle back as soon as it fires up. (you can move it to half throttle before you start it to avoid over rev-ing of engine).

Mine always has a rubber cap over it to protect it.
The sound was the fuel rail advancing to max output.
HTH
Keith
 

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