1971 Ford 2000 3 cyl gas

Des

New User
I got this tractor at a good price and planned on fixing it up a bit and selling. Tractor ran when I bought it although not smoothly. When I got it home drove it around the block made it a little less than a mile and it quit running. Would not start again even with ether. Towed home found coil was leaking and points burnt. Replaced them and condenser and tractor ran smooth. Took it around the block again and at almost the exact same location it quit. Again will not start even with ether. If it sits in the yard for a while it will start right up again. I am stumped. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Des
 
Check for good fuel flow to the carb. If it doesn't flow, start checking the fuel line from the tank to the carb. You might have crud plugging the line and/or any fuel filters. I would guess since it dies about the same amount of run time after sitting, the float bowl is getting starved. The time spend sitting is enough to refill the float bowl again.

Others might tell you to check spark right after it dies which would be fine too. But based on what you said I'd personally look at the fuel system. To each their own!
 
It appears as it is a fuel problem. All the tractors I have worked on to date were older Fords, Farmalls. As such they did not have a fuel pump, just gravity drain. In tracing out the fuel lines it appears to have a fuel pump on the top front of the engine behind the generator. I did the same as I did before and the tractor ran about the same distance and again quit. I sprayed ether again and after cranking longer than before it did fire up then stop again. Earlier I didn't take into account the long air flow from intake to engine when I applied ether. I am going to remove the pump and check it out and the lines
 
He said Three cylinder guys - they were all 12 volt.
Des, that tractor came from the factory with a resistor wire in the system. It is 3 layers of wire folded and taped together that goes from a bullet connector near the solenoid to the coil.
Someone has likely replaced that resistor wire with a regular wire. (they often get frayed and ugly looking)
We do not know whether you bought a coil that requires a resistor or bought a coil that does not require a resistor.
They sell both types.
Someone here can post the Napa part # for the one that does not need a rtesistor.
Buy that and you should be good to go.
 
The resister wire is still there and the coil is for an external resistance. I do not have time tonight but it appears to me to be a fuel pump but will know more tomorrow when I take the pump out and check it and the lines. The last time it quit I had an electric circuit tester ( probe with a lamp) and it showed current to the coil.
 
i know they are all 12v. and in case you didn't know. it's a 6v coil on that 12v machine, plus a hand sized wad of that resistor wire.

I've seen people not aware of that and go buy a real 12v coil and then have a gasser that won't start, since it needs a 6v coil...
 
The coil is what the factory specs call for. It doesn't say 6 or 12 volt but it is the number from Ford.
 
Most folks don't know anything about 6 volt systems, and all the know about coils is whether or not it requires an external resistor on a 12 volt system. But a coil that requires an external resistor on a 12 volt system works fine on a 6 volt system without the resistor. One that does not require an external resistor on a 12 volt system won't work very well on a 6 volt system. Back when they were first coming out with 12 volt systems for gasoline engine machines, they just used the old coils that worked fine on 6 volt systems and added the external resistor.
 
Problem found and fixed! There is a fuel pump called the fuel lift pump, I replaced it and everything is working fine. Thanks for all your inputs.

Des
 

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