identify correct 641 power steering cylinder tie rod end

SStra

Member
Need some help identifying correct power steering cylinder tie rod end for a 1959 641. I and seller determined that I needed a C5NN3A302B. Order and got it, but the male tapered end does not look like my old one. This male end is shorter and the taper is not a consistent taper. I have not forced it but does seem to me like it wants to fit my tie rod.

Below was the description

Fits: 2000 3 Cylinder, 2000 4 cylinder, 4000 3 cylinder ((1965 - 1975)), 601, 801, 2600, 3000, 3600, 4600 (1975 & later), 7000 (1957 - 1964), Industrial: 230A, 231, 234, 334, 530A, 531 (1965 & up); Replaces: 81802877, C5NN3A302B

Can someone tell me the after market part number I should be looking for?

I have not taken a picture of the old one but here is a picture of the new one.
a164104.jpg
 
I'm thinking you have the right one.
The internal threads should be 7/16-20. Do they screw onto your cylinder rod properly?
Try pushing the rubber boot down and see if the taper looks different then.
 
Thanks Ultradog for the reply. Yes the threads appear to be 7/16 20 . I can push the rubber down, but about where the rubber starts the taper on the new one jumps out about 1/8 all around and will not even come close to starting into the lower side hole on my tie rod. Thus the top of the threads do not even extend out the top of the tie rod. My tie rod looks good, hole not damaged and consistently round. And my old one fits great but some one has welded it onto the end of a cylinder so have to replace cylinder and tie rod end. At this point it looks like I would have to do a bunch of grinding on the taper to even get it to the point that the thread extend above the rod.
 
I can't tell what you have from here.
Those ball ends can be an achey breaky deal sometimes.
The 3400 utility tractors used a 5/8" cylinder rod with small taper and 1/2" threads on those ball ends.
3000s and Hundreds used a 1/2" rod, 7/16" threads and bigger taper.
I used to think that you couldn't buy the big taper with 1/2" threads and couldn't buy small taper with 7/16" threads but others here say that is not correct.
If so it would mean there are 3 or 4 different ends you can buy.
Kinda long winded here but likely no parts source or counter man is going to know all this and could easily order the wrong ball end.
I had to Jerry rig my ball ends so I could use heavier 5/8" rod cylinders on my 3000.
I bought new truck ball ends with the correct taper for $5 each at a industrial junk/salvage joint, cut them off, tapped them to 1/2" threads and locktited them on my cylinders.
They look good, work good but the correct police might have an issue with them if they looked close.
 
more pictures. My rod ends work but it is the taper that is getting me. It appears the the threads on the new taper are smaller than the old. (new nut will not thread on old taper). But after threads new taper jumps larger and appears to be about a 32nd to large to even start into my tie rod. Problem all of the pictures and part numbers on internet look the same as the new one I have. SO AM STUMPED.
a164134.jpg

a164135.jpg

a164136.jpg
 
Interesting.
Does the taper seat properly into the tie rod?
The old one doesn't look too bad.
Put a new boot on it and go.
Did they weld a 1/2" ball end onto a 7/16" shaft?
 
No the taper on the new one will not even start into the tie rod.

Don't think the old one was a 1/2 welded to 7/16, just think it got lose distroyed the threads and they weld it fast. I have not tried grinding the welding off, but would bet thread would be gone either on rod or end.

On the ford parts site, of course they say they are no longer available but show the nut on the tape as to be a 1/2 inch and the rod female to be 7/16 20. The new one is 7/16 for both the female and the taper.

I would assume that hundreds of owners have had to replace this tie rod end. That is why I just do not understand why it is so far wrong.

Guess I will try to call Walt's or some one tomorrow that may help if I do not get a answer tonight.
 
Okay.
You have the big taper and it wont go in.
Someone here had that same tierod. We talked about this in the last year.
Can't find the thread...
I'm working from a 3 cylinder perspective here but thought all the 00, 01, 000 and AP 3 cyl used the same ball joint. They all use the same cylinder - from 55 till 82 at least.
Maybe John Smith knows. I would email him if no one else chimes in here.
Kenny still gets stuff from the nnalert catalog as he doesn't do the internet.
I'm sure he bought a pair from them for his 841d but I didn't pay attention to the taper size.
 
Follow up - - thanks to John Smith for the Ford part number code information - - it may help someone else with similar problem.

Regarding the C5NN3A302B part number. The first letter is for the decade (C is for 1960's). The second number is the year the part was introduced. The "5" means 1965. NN means tractor. The Fords changed considerably in 1965 and up and very few '65 and up parts fit the older tractors. If the part number began with C0 (1960) or C3 (1963) you might have had a fighting chance, but in the case of this part it has retained the original part number it was assigned in 1957. The C5 end is for the '65 and newer tractors so it has too big of a taper to fit. The one you need for hundred series is 310788 (end only) or 309526 (kit). The kit simply includes a new nut and cotter pin for the end.

So it appear that all of these list as after market with the C5NN3A3O2B part number and are to fit the hundred series are in error.

I have not found a after market product that truly replaces the OEM 310788 or 309526.
 

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