850 Proofmeter

esbrian · Jul 15, 2014

I replaced the proofmeter and cable on my 850 (proofmeter was non-working when purchased) while I had the hood off, and the new pair aren't working either.

What are my troubleshooting steps? If I remove the cable from the drive on the rear end of the hydraulic pump will I be able to tell anything looking at it while turning the engine over? Anything easily missed/messed up on the install?

Brian

KCM · Jul 15, 2014

Brian,

Yes, if you take the cable off the rear of the pump you should be able to see the drive turning with the engine running. There should be a round pin that as a hole in the middle and a slot to one side. The end of the cable with the round pin and little nub sticking out the side will mate up with the drive. The other end screws onto the proofmeter. Pretty hard to get it installed improperly, especially since the ends of the cable have different size nuts.

Once you attach the outer housing of the cable to the rear of the pump, you should not be able to turn the inner cable from the proofmeter end. When you crank the engine, the proofmeter end of the inner cable should also rotate. If the inner cable rotates with the engine, the problem either is a bad proofmeter or the proofmeter end of the cable is not engaging the proofmeter properly. A check for the proofmeter is to give the drive end of the meter a quick spin with your fingers in the normal direction. The needle should bounce up some if working properly.

esbrian · Jul 15, 2014

(quoted from post at 18:43:47 07/15/14) Brian,

Yes, if you take the cable off the rear of the pump you should be able to see the drive turning with the engine running. There should be a round pin that as a hole in the middle and a slot to one side. The end of the cable with the round pin and little nub sticking out the side will mate up with the drive. The other end screws onto the proofmeter. Pretty hard to get it installed improperly, especially since the ends of the cable have different size nuts.

Once you attach the outer housing of the cable to the rear of the pump, you should not be able to turn the inner cable from the proofmeter end. When you crank the engine, the proofmeter end of the inner cable should also rotate. If the inner cable rotates with the engine, the problem either is a bad proofmeter or the proofmeter end of the cable is not engaging the proofmeter properly. A check for the proofmeter is to give the drive end of the meter a quick spin with your fingers in the normal direction. The needle should bounce up some if working properly.

KCM, thanks for your reply. I'll check both ends for movement. I was so relieved to get this thing put back together and running, but the non-functioning proofmeter is taking some of the shine off my victory.

Brian

esbrian · Jul 17, 2014

Well I separated the driven end of the cable from the hydraulic pump to see what I could see. The drive unit in the pump's gear housing spins when the engine is running. If I chuck the driven end of the tach cable in my cordless drill and spin it up, the new proofmeter shows around 1700 RPM. The problem is that the driven end of the tach cable is too small for the drive unit. Not sure if I'm missing a piece or if the cable or the drive unit is for the wrong tractor...

Pics below. I don't have one of the cable inserted into the drive unit, but trust me, it spins freely.

showcrop · Jul 17, 2014

(quoted from post at 16:42:06 07/17/14) Well I separated the driven end of the cable from the hydraulic pump to see what I could see. The drive unit in the pump's gear housing spins when the engine is running. If I chuck the driven end of the tach cable in my cordless drill and spin it up, the new proofmeter shows around 1700 RPM. The problem is that the driven end of the tach cable is too small for the drive unit. Not sure if I'm missing a piece or if the cable or the drive unit is for the wrong tractor...

Pics below. I don't have one of the cable inserted into the drive unit, but trust me, it spins freely.

I went out and measured one of mine. The end of the cable measured 11/64 and the female part in the pump was at least a 32nd larger. The end of your cable looks correct but the receiver from the pump looks very big unless you have very small hands.

esbrian · Jul 17, 2014

(quoted from post at 20:05:11 07/17/14)
I went out and measured one of mine. The end of the cable measured 11/64 and the female part in the pump was at least a 32nd larger. The end of your cable looks correct but the receiver from the pump looks very big unless you have very small hands.

Showcrop, while I've always thought of myself as a medium-handed person

, the female part in the pump in my photos is about 3/16" diameter.

The end of my cable is more like 5/32". It's "Tachometer Cable, Steel Part Number B9NN17365B_STEE" (http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Ford-800_Tachometer-Cable-Steel-_B9NN17365B_STEE.html) from this site.

esbrian · Jul 18, 2014

Any ideas on a way to shim around the end of the tach cable, or am I asking for trouble here?

Larry NCKS · Jul 20, 2014

I'm guessing y'all missed the boat here. Just because the drive spins without a cable attached does not mean it will drive a proofmeter.

Take the big hex nut off the back of the hydraulic pump and verify that the drive components are all intact. Pay particular attention to the slotted head hex bolt that not only secures the pump drive gear, but also is slotted and drives the proofmeter cable fitting. Most failures here see half or all of that bolt head broken off.

esbrian · Jul 20, 2014

(quoted from post at 07:26:22 07/20/14)
I'm guessing y'all missed the boat here. Just because the drive spins without a cable attached does not mean it will drive a proofmeter.

Take the big hex nut off the back of the hydraulic pump and verify that the drive components are all intact. Pay particular attention to the slotted head hex bolt that not only secures the pump drive gear, but also is slotted and drives the proofmeter cable fitting. Most failures here see half or all of that bolt head broken off.

Larry, I had the nut off to remove the drive and didn't see anything obviously broken in there, but I'll have another look. If there is a problem in the gear housing, though, it's not the only one.

with the drive removed from the rear of the pump I am able to slide it over the driven end of the tach cable and spin the drive unit with my fingers without causing the cable to spin. So either the female part of the drive is too large or the male part of the cable too small or both.

showcrop · Jul 20, 2014

(quoted from post at 06:36:24 07/20/14)

(quoted from post at 07:26:22 07/20/14)
I'm guessing y'all missed the boat here. Just because the drive spins without a cable attached does not mean it will drive a proofmeter.

Take the big hex nut off the back of the hydraulic pump and verify that the drive components are all intact. Pay particular attention to the slotted head hex bolt that not only secures the pump drive gear, but also is slotted and drives the proofmeter cable fitting. Most failures here see half or all of that bolt head broken off.

Click to expand...

Larry, I had the nut off to remove the drive and didn't see anything obviously broken in there, but I'll have another look. If there is a problem in the gear housing, though, it's not the only one.

with the drive removed from the rear of the pump I am able to slide it over the driven end of the tach cable and spin the drive unit with my fingers without causing the cable to spin. So either the female part of the drive is too large or the male part of the cable too small or both.

Brian, I think that what I would be trying at this point is making a sleeve out of something like aluminum flashing. You could bend it around something like a nail, and make it go only about 2/3 of the way around so that the tab can still stick out enough. obviously it will give it a little wobble but I can't see that it would bother a flexible able.

esbrian · Jul 22, 2014

(quoted from post at 17:11:38 07/20/14)
Brian, I think that what I would be trying at this point is making a sleeve out of something like aluminum flashing. You could bend it around something like a nail, and make it go only about 2/3 of the way around so that the tab can still stick out enough. obviously it will give it a little wobble but I can't see that it would bother a flexible able.

Showcrop,

That's exactly what I meant by shimming it - I was picturing a tube, but a 2/3 or so wrap is a much better solution.

Unfortunately, after trying this, it seems that the 3 or so hours I've run it with this cable have worn down the tab on the cable to the point where it doesn't stick out enough from the rest of the shaft. I'm going to try to swage it out a bit with a punch or similar, but I think I might need another cable at this point...

esbrian · Aug 3, 2014

Well with a little bit of work I got some beer-can-based shims to work around the cable shaft, at least for now... Thanks for the help, guys.

showcrop · Aug 3, 2014

(quoted from post at 12:29:25 08/03/14) Well with a little bit of work I got some beer-can-based shims to work around the cable shaft, at least for now... Thanks for the help, guys.

Thanks for posting back.

850 Proofmeter

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