Inherited a Golden Jubilee

RI-Jubilee

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I inherited a '53 Golden Jubilee from my grandfather and plan to get it running and eventually restore it top to bottom. Used to ride on the back when I was a kid. It has sat for 12 years outside unfortunately. Recently I decided that it might be good to get it running since I have 52 fenceposts to put in, but only 1 of 4 cylinders had any compression. I pulled the valve cover, and after a couple of weeks of penetrating oil, filling the engine thru the exhaust with diesel/ATF mix, and letting it set, and lots of patience, only 1 of the 3 stuck exhaust valves were freed, so I pulled the head and am researching shops to get the head machined. Cylinders 1 and 4 have quite a bit of rust and pitting and the valve seats need to be machined. Mice had been using the intake and cylinders for seed storage - little buggers!

Unfortunately I damaged #4 valve guide when tapping the valve out with a punch after removing the springs- I hadn't noticed that my tapered pin punch had engaged on the guide and it broke in several pieces when I tapped. Dumb mistake. So I have a lot of questions I was hoping to get some help on.

1. The valve guides I found online
http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/store/enlarge_pic.cgi?wml_VOKF134G.jpg:VOKF134G
don't have the same shape as what I broke. Was it the valve guide I broke or another part? It seemed to be cast iron and was definitely brittle.

2. How can I evaluate whether the rings are any good if I can't check compression because of bad valves? Do I have to do the valves first then put the head back on to see if I have good rings? If I put the head back on do I have to use a new head gasket? The old one seems undamaged, and smooth.

3. Number 4 pushrod is very slightly bent. Is it advisable to straighten or replace?

4. Should I replace or try to service the water pump?

5. The radiator has held coolant for all these years and it looked brand new when drained, as did the engine oil. But I see a weep in the radiator. Should I just try stop-leak, replace it, solder it, take it to a radiator shop, or what?

6. The rear end (differential housing?) has a crack in the top. Any ideas on how to deal with this? Get a parts tractor with a good casting? I don't see these for sale new anywhere. I'll post a photo.

7. I think I read that I should replace the hydraulic pump with a positive displacement variety. Is that right?

8. The tractor is stock with 6V electrical and standard ignition. I understand that I could change over to 12V and electronic ignition. Anybody know the Pros/Cons to changing over?

9. The gas tank is rusty inside and has some sludge but looks very solid. I cleaned all the rust off the outside and have been reading up on cleaning the inside. Has anybody who has done this got any advice? Maybe best to bite the bullet and buy a new tank?

I'd like to at least get the machine up and running to evaluate what the condition is of the rest of it since I have no idea whether she's all worn out or not. There is a Dearborn Loader which I removed and no running boards.

Appreciate any help. I'll post some photos.
 
If 2 of the cylinders have severe rust and pitting you need new sleeves and you may as well replace all of them along with new rings.
The machine shop will replace the valve guides.
You cannot straighten a bent pushrod and good used ones are cheap.
See if you can find an old time radiator shop to repair your radiator and boil out the gas tank.
 
I just recently bought a Jubilee which I converted to 12v, it was not that difficult, changed out the headlamps, new ignition switch because it did not have one, also went with the electronic ignition and it runs well, I do not see any cons other than restoring to original condition.
 

Yes you can beat a push rod straight enough to use I have done it a many a time just to resolve the issue for the time being... Yes a good straight one is hard to beat as long as you resolve the issue that bent it... All the ones I have beat straight to check the issue lived a long life..
 
(quoted from post at 00:51:20 07/15/14) I inherited a '53 Golden Jubilee from my grandfather and plan to get it running and eventually restore it top to bottom. Used to ride on the back when I was a kid. It has sat for 12 years outside unfortunately. Recently I decided that it might be good to get it running since I have 52 fenceposts to put in, but only 1 of 4 cylinders had any compression. I pulled the valve cover, and after a couple of weeks of penetrating oil, filling the engine thru the exhaust with diesel/ATF mix, and letting it set, and lots of patience, only 1 of the 3 stuck exhaust valves were freed, so I pulled the head and am researching shops to get the head machined. Cylinders 1 and 4 have quite a bit of rust and pitting and the valve seats need to be machined. Mice had been using the intake and cylinders for seed storage - little buggers!

Unfortunately I damaged #4 valve guide when tapping the valve out with a punch after removing the springs- I hadn't noticed that my tapered pin punch had engaged on the guide and it broke in several pieces when I tapped. Dumb mistake. So I have a lot of questions I was hoping to get some help on.

1. The valve guides I found online
http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/store/enlarge_pic.cgi?wml_VOKF134G.jpg:VOKF134G
don't have the same shape as what I broke. Was it the valve guide I broke or another part? It seemed to be cast iron and was definitely brittle.

2. How can I evaluate whether the rings are any good if I can't check compression because of bad valves? Do I have to do the valves first then put the head back on to see if I have good rings? If I put the head back on do I have to use a new head gasket? The old one seems undamaged, and smooth.

3. Number 4 pushrod is very slightly bent. Is it advisable to straighten or replace?

4. Should I replace or try to service the water pump?

5. The radiator has held coolant for all these years and it looked brand new when drained, as did the engine oil. But I see a weep in the radiator. Should I just try stop-leak, replace it, solder it, take it to a radiator shop, or what?

6. The rear end (differential housing?) has a crack in the top. Any ideas on how to deal with this? Get a parts tractor with a good casting? I don't see these for sale new anywhere. I'll post a photo.

7. I think I read that I should replace the hydraulic pump with a positive displacement variety. Is that right?

8. The tractor is stock with 6V electrical and standard ignition. I understand that I could change over to 12V and electronic ignition. Anybody know the Pros/Cons to changing over?

9. The gas tank is rusty inside and has some sludge but looks very solid. I cleaned all the rust off the outside and have been reading up on cleaning the inside. Has anybody who has done this got any advice? Maybe best to bite the bullet and buy a new tank?

I'd like to at least get the machine up and running to evaluate what the condition is of the rest of it since I have no idea whether she's all worn out or not. There is a Dearborn Loader which I removed and no running boards.

Appreciate any help. I'll post some photos.

Sounds like you have quite a project there. If it were me, I'd probably be thinking complete engine rebuild, since you have rusty cylinder walls and all. But to answer your questions:

1. Not sure on old guides versus those. If you want a set of those, I have a brand new set that you can have if you want. Just let me know.

2. No way to check the rings unless you do the head/valve job. And yes, you'd need a new gasket. However, I'd think that it would be a waste of time. No way it will get good ring seal with rusty cylinder walls, unfortunately.

3. Like the other guys said, it's best to replace. But it could be straightened "in a pinch". I wouldn't, as replacements are inexpensive. If you try to straighten it, you'll likely have some noise from that rocker arm.

4. I have no experience trying to rebuild the original. I just bought an aftermarket one for mine. Easy bolt-on.

5. Take it to an old-time radiator shop if you have one. Get them to boil it out and fix the leak.

6. If it were me, I'd get a used casting. Not available new. They are typically not a fast seller when someone parts out a tractor, so they should be fairly easy to find. Of course, local is better, shipping would be expensive.

7. Parts are more readily available for the piston pump. If your vane pump is working, keep running it. If not, find a piston pump.

8. If you are going to work the tractor, then swap to 12V. Also, do a search on here and you will see this has been covered a million times, with tons of good info.

9. Like was mentioned, have a shop boil out the tank. Or, new ones can be had for about 200 bucks. Your choice.

Hope that helps,
Kevin
 
http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=ford&th=344550

In-depth and fantastic description of how to do a 12V conversion. It's for the hundred series (the model after yours), but the fundamentals are the same. Dad and I followed this thing to the T and build my 12V system from scratch.

One thing he doesn't cover: make sure to get a 12V condenser if you stay with the points firing system instead of upgrading to an electronic one. 6V burned out in like 3 minutes.
 

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