Ford 641 spark timing problem

Millweld

Member
I replaced the oil pump and had to remove the distributor in the process. I failed to mark the position of the distributor rotor relative to the opening and closing of the points so I tried to adjust it by briefly cranking the engine. I was able to get some improvement (firing/coughing) but nothing close to starting. Frankly, I am not sure just what the timing of the opening/closing of the points is to the electrical contact to the spark plug wire is. I can post pics if needed.
Its a 4 cylinder 641 (1958 model).
Thanks.
 
With # 1 piston at TDC on compresion stroke look in the timing window on the right rear corner of the engine and you will see the timing marks. Turn the crankshaft backwards until the timing marks disappear and then slowly turn the crankshaft forwards until the 4* mark is lined up with the pointer that is cast into the block.
Loosen the distributor and turn it until the points are closed. Then turn it until the points just start to open. It is best to use a ohmmeter to confirm the points have broken contact with each other. Confirm that the rotor is pointing towards the nipple on the distributor cap that is connected to the #1 spark plug.
When you successfully accomplish this the engine will fire.
 

Thanks. Actually, all I had to do was to rotate the distributor until it started. However, I had to rotate it to the stop (all the way counterclockwise) but it started and ran nicely. I would like some more leeway in the adjustment, so what should I do to get it? remove the distributor and rotate the cam clockwise a bit and remount the dist.?
 
(quoted from post at 10:12:36 07/12/14)
Thanks. Actually, all I had to do was to rotate the distributor until it started. However, I had to rotate it to the stop (all the way counterclockwise) but it started and ran nicely. I would like some more leeway in the adjustment, so what should I do to get it? remove the distributor and rotate the cam clockwise a bit and remount the dist.?

You can remove the distributor and move the cam but you will be moving the crank and pistons as we'll so nothing will change. As you run it and work it more you may find that it needs adjustment requiring it to be turned off the "stop"
 

I removed the distributor to rotate it one cog and in the process I noticed that the "stop" (whatever it was) preventing more rotation was no longer present so it rotated freely. Having more control over positioning the distributor, I started the tractor, tweeked the dist and :D :) it started again and ran very well. The oil new pump delivered pressure 40 - 60 psi so, the initial reason for this project was successful too.
Thanks for the input.
 

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