Cheapest way to add hydraulics to the rear of a Ford 2000

Meyer712

Member
I need at least a single spool to the rear of my Ford 2000. Any ideas on the least expensive way to achieve this??

I am not a mechanic by any means as well. So simpler is better. Thanks in advance!!!

1964 Ford 2000 4 cyl.
 
Under the seat is a plate that has a pipe plug in it. That is the
pressure point that feeds the 3 point. You would connect your
hose there. That part is simple enough

Next when you wanted to use the remote you chain down the
three point lift arms. This keeps the arms from rising and
opening the relief vavle. The pressure would be directed to
the to the remote. You would use the three point control for
remote control. There will be a very fine point where the up /
down transition (holds the pressure).

Now this is the important part. Never, ever, never trust it.
Once you lift something tie it in place and release the
pressure. You MUST tie the three point downt in such a way
as it can not come loose. Do not just throw a chain around it.

That is the cheap way. You would be much better off to
spend the money on a select-troll valve. Does the same thing
but you do not have to tie the three point down.
 
[b:c5f557909b]
Errin OH[/b:c5f557909b]

Do you know anyone with a dual remote for sale?

I have a single on my 961 that I would like to replace with a dual.

Myron
 

Thank you for that information. I need to hook up a haybine to raise and lower the thing. This sound like a reasonable solution. Do I have to worry about wrecking the three point if it is chained down, using this method??

I'm no opposed to spending a few hundred dollars to add a single remote to the rear, just don't know what to look for nor how to install it.
 
Meyer712. That solution only provides pressure in one direction for a single acting cylinder, basically power up and gravity down. Also, you don't want to leave the lift arms chained down except when you have something connected to the remote. Trying to operate the lift control with the arms chained down and the remote line dead headed can damage things.

A single remote valve can be bought new from the fine folks that run this forum, yesterdays tractors. The valve replaces the 3x5 plate on the top cover that Errin OH mentioned in the post above (or below if you're in classic view). The same valve can be used on all Ford tractors from the NAA in 1953 up through at least the 3 cylinder thousand series in 1975. They're just a little pricey. Here's the least expensive one, with no detent:

[u:2ae5f49f18]Single spool remote valve, no tedent[/u:2ae5f49f18]

A less expensive route is to install a power beyond plate and use a generic external valve. The plate installs under the existing cover plate and provides external ports that you can then connect to any control valve that you like, but then you need to fabricate a bracket to mount the valve, but still it's going to be less than half the price of a remote that bolts directly to the top cover in place of the cover plate:

[u:2ae5f49f18]Power beyond Adapter Plate Kit[/u:2ae5f49f18]

[u:2ae5f49f18]Single Spool external valve at surpluscenter.com[/u:2ae5f49f18]
 
Thanks Sean, reasonable price for option 2. I will order those parts up.. Thanks again to the Forum members, You guys are the best!!!
 
If you only need one remote then as far as I'm concerned your cheapest option is probably just buying a single spool double acting remote valve WITH detents, possibly from this site. You can go with the adapter plate and surplus center valve... and that might be a better route if you needed more than two spools... but for one valve I think the OEM style kit provided is generally a cleaner, easier install. If you go with external parts you need to know how to plumb it and the cost of custom hoses can add up too.

Rod
 
(quoted from post at 16:59:58 07/07/14) If you only need one remote then as far as I'm concerned your cheapest option is probably just buying a single spool double acting remote valve WITH detents, possibly from this site. You can go with the adapter plate and surplus center valve... and that might be a better route if you needed more than two spools... but for one valve I think the OEM style kit provided is generally a cleaner, easier install. If you go with external parts you need to know how to plumb it and the cost of custom hoses can add up too.

Rod

Rod - cleanest installation, yes. Cheapest option, no.

Your recommendation, a double acting single spool remote valve with detents on this site is over $900.00.

The adapter plate is $88.00 and the surpluscenter valve is another $87.00. Plus you can get the 4 hoses you would need from surpluscenter as well. No "custom hoses" necessary. A pair of [u:900e9fc6e7]these 18" long 3/4" hoses[/u:900e9fc6e7] to go from the adapter plate to the valve, and a pair of [u:900e9fc6e7]these 48" long 3/4" hoses[/u:900e9fc6e7] to go from the valve to the rear of the tractor would be less than $100.00 in hoses. So you're only looking at around $300.00 total for the entire setup, compared to over $900.00 for the clean installation.
 
I tend to agree Rod.
Around here a single remote will run you about $200 and might have the hoses on it.
Adding up Sean's numbers will get you up to that price pretty quickly and you have the inevitable snake nest that comes with it.
Kenny might have a single he would sell.
Meyer712, I could ask him if you are interested.
 
Utradog, used is one thing, but Rod was recommending buying one new from this site, and that's over $900.00.
 
Your mileage may vary... but I haven't found too many cheap a$s valves that don't leak soon after they're installed... and not too many cheap hoses that don't blow long before their time. Personally if it's me that's sitting over it, I want Parker or Gates hose that I know has two wires in it, not the dopey two wire equivalents that don't have any wire... So when you get making up good hose you find it's more often a hundred bucks a length these days and a 'good' valve is more like 300 if you don't want an oil slick on your boots forever... so when all is said and done you get mighty close to that 900 bucks.
A few calls to known wreckers would probably get you a used valve much more reasonably as well...

Rod
 
If you can get a valve (any local Ford junk yards?), you can easily plumb in your own hoses. Dad and I did that for my 841, and mounted it like below. You won't get a used "accessory plate" mounted spool for less than $200. And the plumbing cost about $170.

I'd go used before I bought new. $900 just seems way too steep for me.

mvphoto8858.jpg


mvphoto8859.jpg


mvphoto8860.jpg


mvphoto8861.jpg
 
Rod, surpluscenter's prices aren't low because of low quality products. Their prices are low because they buy surplus products. When a manufacturer is tooled up to produce a certain model of tractor/loader/backhoe/whatever, and then stop production on that model of equipment, they have extra valves, cylinders, hoses, etc. that they need to get rid of because they aren't proper size for the next model that they ae gearing up for. surpluscenter buys those leftover parts at pennies on the dollar because it's cheaper for the manufacturers to sell them at a loss than it is to pay a scrapyard to haul them away.

I replaced all of the cylinders and hoses on my loader when I mounted it on my 4000 because the original cylinders and lines were rusted beyond being salvageable. I also added a joystick control valve because it didn't have any valve when I got it. All of the hoses are real 4 wire 4000 psi rated hoses, and the joystick valve is a Prince, rated to 3000 psi with an adjustable relief valve set at the factory to 2200 psi. The joystick valve, if you were to buy it new from a regular hydraulics shop, would cost well over $500.00, but I got the exact same valve from surpluscenter for around $200.00. I got around a dozen hoses of varying lengths from 18 inches to 6 feet all for around $200.00. I got the two lift cylinders for $105.00 each, and the bucket cylinder for $135.00. They are all top quality materials from top quality manufacturers, but they cost less because they were extras that the original purchaser needed to get rid of. I have had all of this on my tractor for over 2 years now and I haven't had a single issue with any of it.
 
Mabey you have good luck with surplus center stuff... but the stuff I've seen on their website is the same fare as princess auto sells up here... which is very basic Chinese junk that does not last.

Rod
 

This is an outstanding job!.. I can only hope to have mine turn out this good. Plumbing job looks professional. Don't 'spose you would consider making a hose mounting plate like that would you??? Great job!!
 
Maybe I got lucky because I "overbuilt" things. Since I knew the pump could only put out 2200 psi, I went with a 3000 psi control valve and 4000 psi lines and 3500 psi cylinders.
 

All you guys out there have given me top notch information. I appreciate all of it!!! Always can count on the forums for the best information!
 
Meyer712,
You can get a Pioneer #5006-4 Double breakaway Clamp (TSC 16.99) and 2 Pioneer Quick Couplings. Add the hoses and you're good to go. The breakaway feature is good if something happens to the hitch. BTDT
 
Third hose is for a 711 single cyl trip bucket loader. I could run a haybine, loader, or a wheel disk with this setup. Though I didn't do it often as I had a Ford 7000 Row crop that ran the haybine and disk much better.
Keith
 

I wish I could take credit for the build, but I mostly watched as my Dad fashioned it. It's just two pieces of angle iron we painted black and bolted together. The hard part was getting the curve of the axle bell housing right. He made the lower angle piece long enough to reach two of the bolts for added strength. The upper angle piece has two holes drilled to receive two fittings that tighten down on It with nuts.

We scrounged together the fittings from various places. Two male-to-female swivel fittings. Two male-to-male elbow fittings. Two male-to-male "mounting fittings" and two female-to-female quick connectors. The hoses came from a local hydraulic shop, custom made. We fit everything together but the hoses, then got measurements for the two hose lengths. The local shop made them in about 10 minutes for about $10 cheaper than O'Reilly could have.
 
for EZ, without a doubt. the bolt on valves and oring kit are easy. occasionally you find one for 150-250 used for sale. that and 5$ of orings and then yer hoses and qd's and you are good.
 

I have rear hydraulics!!!! No Leaks and they work great. Thanks go out to everyone of you guys.. Total in the whole system about $200. Sean from PA. Thanks for the links to the valve and adapter plate.
 

Ok I seem to have lost my hydraulics to the three point arms. The rear hydro works but no hydro to the arms. any ideas here??
 

Does anyone have a plumbing schematic to a single spool valve from the HV 5902 adapter plate. Just want to make sure I plumbed this in correctly. This installation instructions that came with the plate are not very specific at all. I have one hose out from the "P" outlet to the "IN" on the valve. then from the "out" on the valve to the Return port on the Plate. there is a plug in the "PB" port (Power beyond port) Does this sound correct?? Thanks in advance
 
The plate is designed to be used with regular open center valves or with Power Beyond valves.

The only instructions that came with mine said that if you have a Power Beyond valve then run the Power Beyond line to the "PB" port and the other return line to the other Return port, but if you only have one return line (no Power Beyond setup), then you need to run it to the "PB" port on the plate and plug the other Return port. The port labeled "PB" is the one that returns the fluid pressure to the lift, and the "Return" port just dumps back into the sump.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top