Ford 3000 Fuel Problem - Part 3

RedDawg

Member
Okay, finally got a rebuild kit for this Zenith carb. I believe it is a Type 67 but I'm not sure. There are no markings and the tag is gone. The float was definitely bad. It was all soldered up. So, the rebuild was much needed I suspect. I also installed a choke cable.

I got it fired up (still with the Carter electric fuel pump on it). Hey! Idles fine. Higher RPM's it is loading up, losing power and blowing occasional black smoke kind of like it was doing that caused me to tackle this project. The warmer it got the worse it got. The spark plugs came out jet black. I'm thinking too much fuel. But there's no main jet adjustment on this thing. The main jet on this carb is #29 below. I don't have the part labeled #27A which is called the Main Jet Adjustment. All I have is the plug which is #27.

Is there a way to adjust the main jet without #27A below? Thanks.

Jet.jpg
 
I think your needle valve isn't shutting off and causing too much fuel in the carb causing your black smoke. Same problem you had with the bad float..
 
(quoted from post at 14:11:28 07/04/14) I think your needle valve isn't shutting off and causing too much fuel in the carb causing your black smoke. Same problem you had with the bad float..

I set the new float level according to the instructions. Well, I set them according to external link's instructions http://www.external_link/pdfs/ABC1348.pdf because my instructions didn't come with a measurement. But, it's the same parts list except their instructions say 1 5/32" for the float measurement.

I guess that could be the problem but there's still no way to adjust the fuel ratio at higher RPM's. Maye I need to find the Main Jet Adjustment part somewhere.

Thanks for the input.
 
(quoted from post at 14:11:28 07/04/14) I think your needle valve isn't shutting off and causing too much fuel in the carb causing your black smoke. Same problem you had with the bad float..

(Hope this isn't a duplicate. I just wrote this and it disappeared.) I set the float to the level according to the instructions. Well, actually I set them to the level as stated on the external link instructions http://www.external_link/pdfs/ABC1348.pdf as my instructions didn't come with a measurement. I set them to 1 5/32". It's exactly the same sheet and drawings except theirs had the measurement on them.

I guess it could be the needle valve. Maybe I just need to find that Main Jet Adjustment part somewhere. Thanks for this input.
 
My more detailed replies are only showing up in Classic View. Hum....

Let's try this again.

(Hope this isn't a duplicate. I just wrote this and it disappeared.) I set the float to the level according to the instructions. Well, actually I set them to the level as stated on the S t e i n e r Tractor instructions as my instructions didn't come with a measurement. I set them to 1 5/32". It's exactly the same sheet and drawings except theirs had the measurement on them.

[Seem when I put the link in to that competitor's site to show the instructions, this site relegated me to Classic View and removed their name. Interesting.]

I guess it could be the needle valve. Maybe I just need to find that Main Jet Adjustment part somewhere. Thanks for this input.
 
On a Zenith sometimes you see them with a fixed main jet and a plug #27,,, sometimes you see them with a adjustable main jet useing #27A... I know you can buy 27A for a farmall but don't know it it will fit your carb... I have one somewhere maybe new....

The carb # for a 3000 should be 0-13914

The only adjustable main I can find is #71-28 but its not listed for your carb... I have never seen were the fixed deal was a issue to bad you don't have a Holley they are sweet and easy to repair...
 
take the drain plug out of the bowl, and replace with a hose barb and clear hose. Hold it up next to the carb so you can see the gas level. ( I think Hobo has a pic of the setup)
While watching it, increase rpms so you can see if the needle is holding against fuel pump pressure.

ask 'rustyfarmall' over on the farmall board if that adjustable
assembly for the jet will fit your carb. He'll know.
I think he still sells them too, or they are on ebay.

If you can get to it and find the correct replacement for your motor size, replace the main jet.
I've seen many drilled out when a PO just had a dirty flow problem.

On some carbs when this is impossible, if you think it has been hogged out.
A piece of wire inserted in the jet with the end bent over so it don't get away will let you know.
Or with some experimentation, the right size wire in a hogged out jet can be a 'it runs good now, leave it be' fix.
 
(quoted from post at 20:02:29 07/04/14) Try it without the aircleaner hooked up.

Thanks for the come back. Actually, I did start it that way. And it seemed to make no difference. You're thinking a plugged air filter. I had that thought too. I hoped it would be that simple. Thanks again.
 

Hobo, thanks so much for the carb information. I've been guessing a bit on the model and that doesn't generally end well for me. :eek: I'm going to adjust the floats today to see if that makes a difference and then try some of the other suggestions as well that have been given. Thanks again. I'll keep people posted.
 

NNP, lots of good stuff in your reply. Appreciate the help. It give me some options. I'm going to adjust the floats and see what happens (if that even affects it). If not, then I attack the main jet.

I thought about an artificial restriction in the jet as well but didn't come up with that idea. It might be an interesting experiment.

Thanks again, I'll keep you posted.
 
Well, I took the float from 1 5/32" to about 1 1/2" which should shut the needle valve off sooner. No luck. Gas is just pouring out of the overflow and all the plugs fouled. I have a feeling the aftermarket electronic fuel pump is keeping enough pressure on it to keep the valve open.

Next experiment - get some more fuel line and take the fuel pump out of it.
 
Wanted to give everyone an update on this year old thread - Ford 3000 with a Zenith carb getting way too much fuel. I finally figured out how to fix this thing.

You leave the aftermarket fuel pump on it. You set the float of the rebuild kit to the right height. You set the parts of carburetor on the bench for a year (yes, disassembled). You work around the parts constantly hoping you don't lose any of those parts - while it sits there and mocks you. Your friends at the bar continually ask you if you have 3000 running yet. You come up with convenient excuses and hope the Ford 640 keeps running.

Eventually you get shamed into putting it back together by a guy whose Vette has also been apart about that long. You replace the air filter, hit the key and it runs fine. Go figure.

I haven't put it under load yet but it is already running so much smoother at high RPM's. Just thought someone might be able to learn from my unique approach on how to fix these things :roll:
 
Red, you've taken a page from my repair manual!


Thanks for updating the thread - nothing more frustrating than reading about similar problems and no solutions or resolution.
 

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