factory key switch for ford 3000 gas

i ve got a few ?s
i have the numbered key switch 1 2 and 3.
will the key switch handle the batt. at 12 volts straight, im not running a volt reg. so the factory wiring diagram is getting sketchy. second if i wire 3 to the solonoid i should have key starting correct? (at one time the po had a push button instead of a starter solonoid)
#2 on the ign. switch should go to the volt stabilizer on the dash. correct?
 
I don't know the numbers off hand and don't know if you have a gas or diesel switch or an original or aftermarket one.
Just take your VOM and you can test it easy that way. Set the meter to ohms then hook one probe to the biggest spade clip on the switch as that is usually the one from the batt. Then hook the other probe to the other connections and see what they do when you turn the key to the various positions.
EZ
 
Terimal 1 Battery and feed to lite switch. Ter 3 start circut. Ter 2 gauge cluster. T1 has 2 big brown wires, T3 white-yellow, T2 white. These are factory harness colors.
 
im sorry i should have posted it is gas, and a factory switch, im trying to match the factory harness the best i can, but buying all the ind. colors and finding them is fruitless
 
You shouldn't go from the key switch directly to the solenoid. You should go from the key switch to the neutral safety switch, and then on to the solenoid.
 
(quoted from post at 11:08:57 06/23/14) there aint no safty swith

So there's a hole on the top plate of the transmission where the safety switch should be? You should get a safety switch and install it if there isn't one there. Too many folks have been seriously hurt or killed because of a lack of a simple safety switch, and most of the time it wasn't the operator of the tractor, but rather some close family member that happened to be standing near the tractor when it was started in gear.
 
no the po's were kind enough to leave the wires cut short enough as no to hook it back up, but enough to keep the hole filled
 

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