- Thread starter ARHunter
- Start date
showcrop
Well-known Member
I put a new one in my 901 after getting the crank ground, so I was doing it with the engine upside down on a stand. From my experience the new style two piece rubber lip seal works just fine. Two years later and no drip. The big problem is the two side wedges with pins, those are really tough to get installed properly under ideal conditions. Hobo,NC recommended a new victor kit that uses RTV silicone with a long applicator tip for getting all the way into the bottom of the retainer block. I would recommend that route. I replaced the main bearings on my 9000 by loosening them all and letting the crank drop just a little. You can't let it down too much or you risk deforming the front seal, but you will need to lower it a little to get the upper half of the rear seal in,up and over. replacing the front seal isn't a real big job.
Ultradog MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Twin Cities
I've done it twice now. Not a bad job. As Showcrop says, loosen the crank caps and let it drop about 1/32 or so.
I don't ever use gloves when wrenching but that job might be a situation where I would use a set of some kind of mechanic's gloves.
You have to lube the new seal real well before you stick it in there and you have a heck of a time gripping it with bare, oily fingers to push it in.
I don't know if those nitrile gloves would help but I would try them.
Maybe someone here can advise on that.
I don't ever use gloves when wrenching but that job might be a situation where I would use a set of some kind of mechanic's gloves.
You have to lube the new seal real well before you stick it in there and you have a heck of a time gripping it with bare, oily fingers to push it in.
I don't know if those nitrile gloves would help but I would try them.
Maybe someone here can advise on that.
Tom New Jersey
Member
I did it on my 861 not bad, some Chilton car manuals will tell how to make a tool to get the old rope seal out that is the only difficult part.
its called a "sneaky pete" and its a wire with a screw on the end that screws into the old seal and the you can pull it out. It can be even used to pull a new rope seal in... cant remember the company, but its a name like carlilie. They make brake tools, extractors and other specialty tools.
You have nothing to lose to try it without a split as some have had success with that option. I tried twice without a split to replace the rear main seal on my 860. I had no luck and ended up splitting the tractor and dropping the crank to replace the rear main seal. Ended up rebuilding the engine after opening it up. I did use the Victor Reinz rtv seal with the long applicator tip in place of the side wedge seals, no leaks one year later. Your results may vary, good luck with whichever route you go.
If you'll do a search of the archives using the "Rear Main seal" query, you'll find a multitude of posts on the subject giving great how to advice. All sorts of techniques have been tried. The wedge seals cause the biggest problem and you need to be selective on the make you buy.
Tom New Jersey
Member
I never had any luck with a sneaky pete tool. The new seal you will be putting in is split made of neopreme/steel don't use a rope seal.
Lanexa Speedway
Member
I don't know how hard it will be to get the rope out without dropping the crank.
What I did just find out was that the Victor Reinz seal is extremely hard to find, and I believe it is out of production. I had some really, really good parts hunters helping me try to find it recently, but no luck. The one that is readily available is the rubber 2-piece seal from Felpro. It comes with rubber vertical seals with two nails to help wedge and compress those in place. I slathered up the vertical channels with "Great Stuff" silicone before installing the rubber seals, then also used the nails.
What I did just find out was that the Victor Reinz seal is extremely hard to find, and I believe it is out of production. I had some really, really good parts hunters helping me try to find it recently, but no luck. The one that is readily available is the rubber 2-piece seal from Felpro. It comes with rubber vertical seals with two nails to help wedge and compress those in place. I slathered up the vertical channels with "Great Stuff" silicone before installing the rubber seals, then also used the nails.
Tall T
Well-known Member
I've only ever "installed" a wick seal with the engine out (my 235 Chev) but I'm thinking that the best way to use the removal tool would be to provide an upward push -- like with a long tapered punch of just the right size -- on the seal opposite the side you are pulling downward on with the removal tool.
It's one of those things where you have to maximize your first attempt as you would never get your same purchase advantage twice on the same side of the seal.
Hobo,NC
Well-known Member
- Location
- Sanford, NC
TT you are on your game... They actually make a tool it looks like a 1/4" key way bent and ground to match the slot the rope seal goes in at the end maybe 1 to 3/4" long... It was a dealer tool I have one never used it I modified a broke off screwdriver that does the trick... You need to move it enough to grab the other side and rotate the crank while pull'n on it...
I dread these jobs but they are not that bad (you get to lay down while you work how bad can it be)... I inspect all the bearings while the pan is off it they are worn the crank needs to come out... A new seal will not fix a worn crank...
Tall T
Well-known Member
That sounds ideal . . . square stock that conforms to the curve . . . even round stock of the same diameter as the groove width -- but not a "tapered" punch as I hastily suggested.
How can you tell I like my favorite long tapered punch.
P.S.
Mr. Hunter . . . as Hobo said, rolling out the seal with the crank is key to the process.
How can you tell I like my favorite long tapered punch.
P.S.
Mr. Hunter . . . as Hobo said, rolling out the seal with the crank is key to the process.
Thanks for all the help. Even though this old engine still runs good and holds about 30psi oil pressure when hot, I'm sure it has plenty of wear on it. I know if the main bearings are worn, it won't do much good to change the rear main seal. My best bet would probably be to just go ahead and do a complete overhaul when I get time and keep pouring a little oil in it every once in a while for now.
Tall T
Well-known Member
Raising the viscosity of you oil will do wonders for the old girl.
The thicker viscosity will take up some bearing slop and soften the blows and it will ALSO lessen your leakage. If you haven't already, put 20W50 into it!
Don't use Castrol GTX 20W50!
When I was selling synthetic oil and using oxidative comparison charts, that oil had the least stability of them all.
It's got one of those names like WD 40 that seems to sucker everyone into thinking it is strong and effective.
Tall T
Well-known Member
Good plan.
The 30 gives you a viscosity of 30 at operating temperature.
but the 15W40 will give you a viscosity of 40 at operating temp.
If I remember correctly, the oil operating temp they use as the standard for viscosity measurement is around 220F
The 20W50 will give you a viscosity of 50 when hot.
Both the 15W40 and the 20W50
will give you faster startup flow than the monograde 30.
The W belongs only with the first number of a multigrade and represents that oils flow at zero degrees F -- it doesn't mean "weight".
Cheers,
T
The 30 gives you a viscosity of 30 at operating temperature.
but the 15W40 will give you a viscosity of 40 at operating temp.
If I remember correctly, the oil operating temp they use as the standard for viscosity measurement is around 220F
The 20W50 will give you a viscosity of 50 when hot.
Both the 15W40 and the 20W50
will give you faster startup flow than the monograde 30.
The W belongs only with the first number of a multigrade and represents that oils flow at zero degrees F -- it doesn't mean "weight".
Cheers,
T
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