Ford 3000 Fuel Question

RedDawg

Member
Finally getting to 'play' with the new to me 1968 Ford 3000 gasser I picked up a few weeks ago. One thing I noticed when looking it over then was that there was no choke cable. There is an in-line fuel filer and what I believe is an electronic fuel pump. It is connected to ground and a stud on the starter solenoid. It 'whirrs' when the key is turned to 'ON' before I hit ignition.

Starting it cold means finding the right combination of running fuel pump time and throttle position. Generally, the throttle needs to be almost closed. But it runs strong and smooth.

So, my two questions would be:

1.) Since this isn't gravity feed anymore, will it seriously affect fuel usage?

2.) Should I look at taking it back to the stock set up?

What are your thoughts? Thanks.

Ford%203000%20Fuel.jpg
 

I am guessing the fuel tank has some serious rust or problem.. So.. if you return it to normal.. really check out the tank and make sure its clean... If its rusty you can coat the tank with por 15 sealer and make it like new... or replace it fairly cheap. Also check for algie and other debris in the tank. Those would require the filter and the pump behind the filter to pull in the fuel.

Fuel pumps can have too much pressure and cause the carb to flood, so hopefully is a low pressure fuel pump.

Dont know how you start it with no choke cable..
 
might be time for you to buy a manual for your tractor.

It wasn't gravity feed to begin with.. it had a fuel pump up front in a real hard to get to spot that usually makes people get an electric to repalce it vs dinking with the poorly chosen spot ford put the fuel pump.

most electrics are around 2-4 psi and some are adjustable... and should be fine. the carb don't know what kind of pump it is ... as long as the pressure is correct.. you are golden.

more fuel useage with a pump. :) funny. :)
 
The gas tank looks fine on the inside. I've used an optical scope to look around in there. Seems clean and rust free.

I've got both the 1965-1975 Ford Tractor Repair Shop Manual (700+ pages) and the I&T FO-31 manual - but lent both to a friend who is trying to rebuild a Ford 2000 steering column. Hope to get them back soon. Guess my description of 'gravity fed' wasn't quite on the mark. I was going by what my 640 has. Probably can't do that - it's a much different machine.

I'll have to check if this pump is adjustable.

I think I'll look at getting a new choke cable though. Haven't run it enough under load yet to see what fuel consumption is yet. As I've found that starting it cold is a delicate balance of throttle position - which of course changes the air flow - and fuel pump duration.

Next task is to get the oil pressure switch and light to work. I feel vulnerable without some of those indicators.

Thanks. I'm sure there will be more questions as I get into this new tractor. Appreciate it.
 
I find most most electric pumps are 7 lbs minimum.. Not suitable for small engines and older carb designs. I have to order the low pressure pumps.. especially for onans and other engines that are sensitive to fuel pressure. Otherwise they flood like crazy, more often than not. Fuel regulators are a joke and don't really cut the pressure correctly so they still flood, till the correct pump is installed.
 
The only thing I would probably do is relocate that pump to somewhere more advantageous to service... as in... get it the hell out of there. Then reinstall a choke cable. I wouldn't bother hooking up the original fuel pump again as long as this one is a 4psi unit..

Rod
 

Pretty much what I was planning. I already have the choke cable on order from this site. I'm also replacing an incorrect gas cap that wasn't ventilated and the oil pressure switch. I have a lot to do with little things to do but the big stuff looks pretty good. Already changed all the fluids. It runs good. Just want to get the instruments back.

Thanks all.
 
(quoted from post at 21:38:58 06/18/14)
I wounder WHY they have a fuel pump on'em...

The bottom of the tank where the fuel shutoff valve is located is just above being level with where the fuel line goes into the carburetor, so a gravity feed might have problems when the fuel level is low in the tank, especially if you're driving uphill for a while.
 
(quoted from post at 18:38:58 06/18/14)
I wounder WHY they have a fuel pump on'em...

wondered that myself. for starting maybe?
a running engine is a pretty powerful pump in itself.
When that running engine is demanding an intake charge,
imagine the suction pull thru the jets and passages.
Sean has a good point, but still, even the smallest
height advantage to the fuel reservoir and the liquid is going to the lowest point...always.
On smaller engines, Like 8-16hp Kohlers, when the fuel pump dies, I just bypass it. Never had any issues at all afterwards.
I might try it on the plumbing nightmare of my loader equipped gas 5000. If I do, I'll post the results.
 

If you stay with that pump it will have to be kept below the tank...
It needs to be wired thru a oil pressure switch...
I would go back to the original set up its not worth the fight to go electric...
 

Pressurized fuel will not vapor lock as quickly. The fuel line runs on the cold side of the engine to the fuel pump and then.... around to the hot side. Takes a higher temp before boiling.


And it will suck it out of the tank when lower on fuel, and going up hill or leaning to the left.
 
(quoted from post at 20:11:07 06/19/14)
Pressurized fuel will not vapor lock as quickly. The fuel line runs on the cold side of the engine to the fuel pump and then.... around to the hot side. Takes a higher temp before boiling.


And it will suck it out of the tank when lower on fuel, and going up hill or leaning to the left.

Stock setup on the 3 cylinder gassers is the fuel runs on the cold side of the engine up to the front, across to the fuel pump, and back to the cold side and rearward to the sediment bowl and carb. Never goes on the hot side of the engine at all.
 

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