Rust on the underside of lift cover

Looking for advice on the rebuild of the lift on the '66 3400. It had sat for a while, and looks like condensation had caused some amount of rust to form on the underside of the lift cover. Not enough to seriously damage the parts that are rusted, but it did cause some rust flakes to be floating around in the fluid.

I've cleaned off all of the loose scale, but I'm tempted to break things down a little farther and get things shiny again with a wire wheel, maybe hit the larger cast parts with the needle scaler, then prime and paint before re-assembly.

Is there anything special about the paint used on the inside of the lift and tranny?

Thanks for any advice -
Greg
 
Last winter, I had so much condensation under the lift cover of my Jub, the controls were frozen. There were many who thought I should be put on meds when I removed the large fill cap, rolled up a small piece of sham wow, and stuffed in the fill hole. The hydraulics has no vent. In my opinion, there should be. There are vents on newer tractors, even the motor has a vent on the oil fill cap. BTW, the sham wow did allow the moisture to transfer out of the case. A cotton sock would work too. I used the sham wow to keep the dirt out and vent at the same time.

Bet you someone will make fun of this post.
George
 
Not questioning your sanity in using a shamwow for that purpose, but I am questioning why you had a shamwow in the fiirst place. :roll:
 
(quoted from post at 16:01:36 12/11/11) Not questioning your sanity in using a shamwow for that purpose, but I am questioning why you had a shamwow in the fiirst place. :roll:

That's good!

Yes, George,,, you left yourself open on this... :D
 
I'm wondering if a shamwow could help me to separate the ram arm from the shaft.. I read a few old posts and it seems like the key is to get the bushings out first, but I'm at a loss to see how one manages that. Another post suggested the key was to get the ram free of the shaft first. I hit it with penetrating oil for the night, but I confess I'm tempted to just clean up what I can with it still together and worry about it another day. I hate to break something that isn't broken already while simply trying to clean it up a bit...
 
(quoted from post at 14:48:47 12/11/11) I believe Ford used Glyptal which is also a sealer.
Glyptal
lyptal Inc.

305 Eastern Avenue Telephone (617) 884-6918

Chelsea, Massachusetts 02150 Fax (617) 884-8376







PRODUCT DATA SHEET

2600



DESCRIPTION

GLYPTAL 2600 Gloss Black Lacquer was designed or general purpose finishing of
industrial products. This alkyd nitrocellulose lacquer has excellent weather durability and
very good arc resistance and dielectric strength.

SUGGESTED USES

GLYPTAL 2600 can be used where a fast, air-drying finish is desired. Because of its
excellent weather durability, this lacquer may be used on exterior surfaces as well as
interior surfaces. Electrical equipment, instruments, and switchboards can be coated
with this lacquer as well as furniture, toys, and office equipment.



PRODUCT DETAILS

Color

Black

Gloss

High

Flash Point

< 80 ºF

Air Dry: Touch

30 minutes

Hard

4 hours

Recoat

Overnight

Coverage (approximate)

350 ft.2/gal (1 mil dried film)





APPLICATION

GLYPTAL 2600 may be applied by spray or dip methods. When used to finish metal
surfaces, it is preferable that a primer such as Glyptal 7920 be used first.



REDUCTION

For spray or dip application, thin 2600 Black Lacquer with approximately equal volume
of G1514 Lacquer Thinner to 20-25 seconds #2 Zahn Cup.
 

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