1974 5000 Diesel Dual Power questions

iojwa

New User
I purchased this tractor and am about to change the fluids. Single owner traded it in because it was just sitting around, has about 2500 hrs.
I assume it sat outside for a while because the oil bath has a creamy white fluid in it. When I refill the bath, do I need to use engine oil or is trans/hydra fluid OK? A similarly colored fluid is what I find when I check what I guess is the transmission dipstick. It's located on the left side of the tractor beneath the seat. I am wondering if just sitting outside could cause this, or is there something else that caused it?

I do not see fluid in the power steering unit and wonder if I need to use what's listed in the operators manual, or if I can just use the trans/hydra fluid in that too.

The manuals I have show two fuel filters, this tractor has only one? It doesn't look like it has been fooled with, so I'm wondering if the design changed at some point to a single filter?

Thanks for any insight.
 
Air cleaner engine oil, I use the same oil in the power steering as the trans. and later 5000 had just one fuel filter. The injector pump also uses engine oil.
 
If the transmission rear end oil looks milky change it too and check the shifter boots for cracks or missing.
 
You should use the same oil in the air filer that you use in the engine. With the dual power models, I believe that the transmission and rear end/hydraulics was a common sump, and you should use a UTF that meets the Ford/New Holland M2C134D specification in there. Neither the air cleaner nor the trans/rear end fluid should look milky. That is a sign of water contamination. You should definitely change both. If you don't have verified service records for the tractor, I would change all of the fluids and filters, including the engine oil, trans/rear end, air cleaner, power steering and coolant. Make sure that you use a coolant that has an anti-cavitation additive or add some yourself.
 

Milky oil, whether in the crankcase or a gear case is almost always from condensation. This is a frequent topic on these boards. Any time a hot humid air mass is followed by a cold front you are likely to have condensation on your tractor's cast iron, unless it is stored in a heated garage. It is inside the cases too though to a lesser degree. A machine that is getting worked regularly will get hot enough to drive the moisture out pretty much every time it is run. Machines that are run for short periods of time will accumulate the moisture in the oil, causing it to get milky. It could help you to know that the 5000 had a pretty significant engine upgrade part way through production. Yours would be a later one, with considerably more power.
 
As souNdguy said, they used single and double fuel filter setups on the 5000. According the parts site, it depends on the exact date of manufacture and which fuel injection pump it had as to whether it had a single or dual filter setup when it left the factory. It could have also been changed from whatever setup it had originally at some point during the past 40 or so years since it was new.
 
(quoted from post at 10:00:16 06/11/14) How do I tell if it has the rotary pump?

If it is rotary the head where the lines to the injectors come off is cylindrical. If it is not a rotary it is "inline" and the four fittings are all in a line.
 
I see now that the tractor has rotary injection pump. What type of fluid do I use in it? I there a special way to bleed this type of pump?

Thank you,
 
How much fluid should be in the power steering
resevoir? Half full or fill it all the way up? I
do t find in the manuals where it says how
muchshould be in there?

Thanks,
 
(quoted from post at 14:08:25 06/12/14) How much fluid should be in the power steering
resevoir? Half full or fill it all the way up? I
do t find in the manuals where it says how
muchshould be in there?

Thanks,

It depends on which power steering pump you have. The early ones had the reservoir separate from the pump and the reservoir was up above the pump. The later ones had the reservoir built into the body of the pump. The early style should have a dip stick built into the filler cap. The later style you should fill to the bottom of the filler hole neck.
 

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