Splitting a 2000 Ford tractor

Horsegirl821

New User
hey everyone, i will be splitting a 2000 ford tractor soon to replace clutch, i have never split one before so it will be a learning experience. Any tips or guides i should look at before?
 
Horsegirl,
Welcome to the Ford Board.
You would do well to buy yourself a manual where the procedure is spelled out with diagrams, etc.
Also, Ford built two different tractors and called both of them a 2000.
The earlier ones, built from 1962-64 had 4 cylinder engines. The Later ones, built from 1965-75 were a 3 cylinder.
Best if you always specify which model you have.
That said, the procedure for splitting either of them is very similar.
You will need to remove the sheet metal, the hydraulic lines, the steering tie rods and the radius rods. Also you will need to disconnect wiring, throttle, choke and on some models the fuel line. And disconnect the power steering lines if you have PS.
You will need to block up under the engine - preferably with big, heavy wood blocks to hold it up. Then you will need to use a floor jack that rolls under the transmission to roll the rear half away from the front.
It is not complicated to do but there is a bit to it - both heavy wrenching and safety factors.
It sure helps to have a concrete floor.
Let us know which 2000 you have and we can provide more tips if you need them.
 
I have a 1963 Ford 2000, the four cylinder one, without PS. I have it split right now and am waiting for a clutch kit that I just ordered.

If you have any more hints about this particular model of tractor, please pass them along. So far, I've done just about everything posted here, so it would be great to hear some hints about how to install the clutch kit -- and reassembly hints, too.

Thanks.
 
One helpful hint that I just thought about: When you support the front half of the tractor, you might want to strap it to an upper support beam of some sort. I used an old swing set that I reinforced with welding, etc. If you try to block the underside of the frame, it could easily become unstable if you have an adjustable wide front end type tractor. There is no place to wedge the frame and the axle on this particular model. This is why I chose to support it from above.

Others here might have some other safety tips about jacking up your tractor. Just be very careful about how you do this because improper support could cause damage to the tractor or harm to you, or both.
 
Folks, Horsegirl is my daughter. She is convincing me to start the clutch R&R on the 3 cyl 2000 LCG tractor. Looks like I will have some help with the wrenching...

Thanks for welcoming her to the board...

John
 

Before starting be sure that the tractor is level front to back or it will be tough to get it back together. Use a level at the engine block-oil pan interface. About two years ago a member here came up with the procedure of using a trailer jack to support the rear part. It is MUCH SAFER than a floor jack because it is bolted to the side of the rear axle housing through a fabricated adapter, so it WILL NOT SLIP APART AND DROP as can happen with a floor jack. Drive wooden wedges in at the front between the front axle and the cast above it or it will flop to one side when you star to pull it apart.
 
I've had to split a few 2000s on dirt floors (that makes things harder). No ONE way to do it. I block up the back half along with something jammed at the base of the wheels so it can't roll. Also put a support under the rear drawbar (bottle jack works fine). Then drive some wood wedges in the front axle on both sides so it's locked and cannot pivot. Then put a floor jack under the rear of the engine and support it. Unbolt it and separate. When on dirt I lay a sheet of plywood on the floor for the jack-wheels to roll on. When putting back together make a couple of headless long guide bolts. Also - putting a comealong on each side of the tractor halves allows you to slowly draw it all together why you jiggle things like the flywheel and PTO shaft to get the splines to line up with the clutches. I've had to do a couple of Deere 4020s like this - so a 2000 seems like a toy in comparison.
 
I split mine to replace the starter gear. If memory serves I think I moved the front half and blocked the rear, on dirt floor. Used a pair of 3x4 angle irons to roll the jack on. Trick is lining everything up to get it back in place. Move it a little, adjust the angle, move a little more, etc. Just BE CAREFUL.
 
The reason I recommend blocking the front half and rolling the back is because with the tie rods disconnected the front wheels just flop around and it steers itself any old way it wants.
It is also harder to roll the front away just by pulling on the jack handle.
If you leave the front half stationary then it is easier to roll the rear half away by pushing on the tires and 'steer' it a little by pushing on one tire or the other.
This is especially helpful if you are on dirt and not on a concrete floor.
But it is your tractor after all so split it any way that pleases you.
 
I do things a little different than other have described. I jack the back half and put it on blocks or jack stands, and put the front axle on a floor jack.
I pull the front end forward with the floor jack handles and then rearward for reassembly, and the jack keeps it straight.
I align with the floor jack, up down etc. Normally, I use a set of "extra" long bolts in the bell-housing as guides to align.
There is no one way to do a job, whatever works for you, your size and tools in the shop.
Wayne
 
Thanks, Wayne, your comments were very helpful. I especially like the idea of using long bolts or rods to align the two halves for reassembly.

Wish me luck!
 
(quoted from post at 09:12:53 04/20/14) Thanks, Wayne, your comments were very helpful. I especially like the idea of using long bolts or rods to align the two halves for reassembly.

Wish me luck!

You may find it helpful to level the tractor before you split it. My tractor runs slightly down hill back to front because of the tire sizes. I could not get my tractor to go back together again until I leveled both parts of the tractor. It took 3/8" wood shims under the front wheels to get both end of the tractor on the same level. After shims were added, went back together on first try, ending 3 days of trying.
 

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