Ford Tractor stalling problem

BUZZEL · Apr 17, 2014

I have an 801 Ford tractor, (for 15 yr.) after about 15min. it seems to run out of gas. I have replaced everything in the fuel system tank shut off, fuel line, filer bowl, carburetor, (new
zenith) nothing has worked I also tried it without the gas cap
I also installed a pertronic kit and new coil. Any ideas?
Buzzel :

souNdguy · Apr 17, 2014

When you are done randomly throwing parts at it and ready to troubleshoot the stalling problem post back.

reason you do this is because ei and ignition tuneups don't solve fuel problems, and carb rebuilds don't fix bad switches and poor connections that heat up and become resistive to current, it vibrate loose.

Always check spark at stall, if spark is good, move on to fuel, your description is sounding fuel...

brickman · Apr 17, 2014

I was just getting ready to post to this site about the very same problem with my 64 4000. Mine seems to stall out after just a few mins. When it stats to stall i can spray some strting fluid in carb and it will straighten up, but then dies again few minutes later.

Harmlar · Apr 17, 2014

My 631 was doing the same, put no ethanol gas in
problem solved

Tom in TN · Apr 17, 2014

Buzzel,

Soundguy is just right. We all have a tendency to jump in without first giving some serious, systematic thinking about troubleshooting.

Now, having said that, I have a 1973 Ford 2000 3 cylinder gas tractor. I had a problem with stalling a few years ago. When it stalled, I noticed that the fuel level in the sediment bowl was virtually non-existent. The trouble turned out to be a clogged screen inside the fuel lift pump.

Good luck diagnosing your particular problem.

Tom in TN

Dcrockeri · Apr 18, 2014

If it has an aftermarket inline fuel filter, that could be clogged. After the tractor stalls, fuel will seep through allowing you to restart, only to stall when it starves itself again.

Ultradog MN · Apr 18, 2014

I'm going to go back to spark.
When it quits again, immediately pull a plug wire and VERIFY that you have a bright, bluish white spark that will jump 3/8". Short or yellowish spark will not do.
Only then go on to fuel/air.
It might be as simple as your ignition switch.

BUZZEL · Apr 18, 2014

(quoted from post at 04:51:02 04/18/14) I'm going to go back to spark.
When it quits again, immediately pull a plug wire and VERIFY that you have a bright, bluish white spark that will jump 3/8". Short or yellowish spark will not do.
Only then go on to fuel/air.
It might be as simple as your ignition switch.

I have checked spark I put a a pertronic electronic ign. kit and a new coil Has anyone had trouble with vacuum,like a cracked
manifold ?
Buzzel

showcrop · Apr 18, 2014

(quoted from post at 06:02:06 04/18/14)

(quoted from post at 04:51:02 04/18/14) I'm going to go back to spark.
When it quits again, immediately pull a plug wire and VERIFY that you have a bright, bluish white spark that will jump 3/8". Short or yellowish spark will not do.
Only then go on to fuel/air.
It might be as simple as your ignition switch.

Click to expand...

I have checked spark I put a a pertronic electronic ign. kit and a new coil Has anyone had trouble with vacuum,like a cracked
manifold ?
Buzzel

Now Buzzel, If you want help you need to get with the program. You are not likely to get answers regarding a very unlikely problem when you have not yet eliminated the highly likely.

Mark Slater · Apr 18, 2014

Buzzel,
It is important that you check the spark [b:a0be15bfad]while the tractor won't start back up[/b:a0be15bfad]. The new system you put in might work great but the contacts to it may have a bad connection that opens up when warm or the ignition switch shakes to off position.
If you see spark from the wires and the tractor still won't start then you have eliminated the spark and can concentrate on fuel delivery & compression.

How long do you have to wait for the tractor to start back up? That may give a clue if it is heat related or time dependant.

BUZZEL · Apr 18, 2014

(quoted from post at 06:54:53 04/18/14)
Buzzel,
It is important that you check the spark [b:a1b459a645]while the tractor won't start back up[/b:a1b459a645]. The new system you put in might work great but the contacts to it may have a bad connection that opens up when warm or the ignition switch shakes to off position.
If you see spark from the wires and the tractor still won't start then you have eliminated the spark and can concentrate on fuel delivery & compression.

How long do you have to wait for the tractor to start back up? That may give a clue if it is heat related or time dependant.

It will start again in about 5min. but it will not run as long the
next time I ran a hot wire from the battery to the coil ,no help
also I have spark tester I can put between the coil and wire I can see the spark.
Buzzel

Mark Slater · Apr 18, 2014

So are you saying after the tractor stalled you did the spark test on the coil, saw the spark was a nice blue/white, then hooked the coil wire back to the distributor and the tractor still wouldn't start . . . until the 5 min. had passed?

Technically the spark test is best done on each spark plug wire at the plug boot to show all components (coil, cap, rotor, wires) are working. Testing at the coil only shows your pertronics system and the coil are working.

Have you checked the plugs themselves for cracks in the insulator and carbon buildup?

BUZZEL · Apr 18, 2014

(quoted from post at 16:03:09 04/18/14)
So are you saying after the tractor stalled you did the spark test on the coil, saw the spark was a nice blue/white, then hooked the coil wire back to the distributor and the tractor still wouldn't start . . . until the 5 min. had passed?

Technically the spark test is best done on each spark plug wire at the plug boot to show all components (coil, cap, rotor, wires) are working. Testing at the coil only shows your pertronics system and the coil are working.

Have you checked the plugs themselves for cracks in the insulator and carbon buildup?

I am going to do a compression test tomorrow and I will check
the plugs. But it doesn't skip it just stops if it was 1or2 plugs it seems like it would skip. when its running it runs great.Thanks
Buzzel

Mark Slater · Apr 18, 2014

I'm still trying to eliminate your spark as a suspect. Still could be a crack in the cap or a rotor not making contact.

I always like to eliminate the spark first before tackling anything else. Deal is you can have the best compression and great fuel delivery but without spark the tractor doesn't turn over and you would never know why without looking for the spark.
You can waste a lot of time and money throwing parts at it if you don't check the spark and confirm it is there at the plug when the tractor doesn't run. It is the most likely thing to go bad and usually less expensive to fix than most other things that can cause this issue.

NNP · Apr 19, 2014

put a spark tester on a plug and use the tractor.
So, you can check for spark right when it dies.
(your timing light with the trigger taped down and tied to the hood will work in a pinch)

If you have spark, and it 'sounds' like it is running out of gas...it probably is.
Rust in the tank randomly blocking the outlet is a common culprit.
While I have Zeniths on most of my red tractors and they work fine, they do seem to have touchy needles. Randomly leak or worse...stick shut. One that I have went thru many times, needs a rap every now and then with a screwdriver handle to behave itself.

BUZZEL · Apr 19, 2014

(quoted from post at 04:16:18 04/19/14) put a spark tester on a plug and use the tractor.
So, you can check for spark right when it dies.
(your timing light with the trigger taped down and tied to the hood will work in a pinch)

If you have spark, and it 'sounds' like it is running out of gas...it probably is.
Rust in the tank randomly blocking the outlet is a common culprit.
While I have Zeniths on most of my red tractors and they work fine, they do seem to have touchy needles. Randomly leak or worse...stick shut. One that I have went thru many times, needs a rap every now and then with a screwdriver handle to behave itself.

Today I checked the compression & put a vacuum gauge,120lb.
per cylinder with 19in. of vacuum Then I took off the bowl filter
and connected a small tank ( about 3qts.) to the new carb. it
is a 3/8 X 24 thread and it ran for about 45 min. with no trouble, now I have to figure out why the new gas line & valve are restricted. I'll do that tomorrow. Thanks
Buzzel

brickman · Apr 19, 2014

Problem fixed!!! Finally after about 2 weeks of checking, rechecking, pulling off parts, putting back on parts, and alot of head scratching, I searched this site and found a post on troubleshooting your ignition system. Went thru the procedure step by step with a test light like the post said. Found that the back nut on the points mounting post wasnt tight, and was causing speratic contact. Never would have found that if not for this site. Thanks, Great site with great information

Ford Tractor stalling problem

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