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Ford Tractors Discussion Forum
Show Parts for Model:

New to me 841

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TNDavid

04-05-2014 03:40:07
98.68.189.172



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Sorry for the rambling on…I finally had some time to spend with my “new” 841 tonight. First off, the bendix wouldn’t kick in. So, I took the starter off and sprayed it real good with “wing ding” (WD40) and smacked the spring, lightly of course, with a hammer a couple of times. Put it back on and it fired right up. I know that I should have taken it apart and cleaned up & that will most likely come back to haunt me with really bad timing if I don't address it, but at the time, I just wanted to get it into the shop. I pulled the PTO shaft and it looked good, splines ok, snap ring in place, but it has about .375” play between the bearing and snap ring…is that normal? I looked in the hole and moved the lever and everything looked ok to me. Put the shaft back in and it engages and disengages…could it be that easy? The shaft does move in and out that .375” when you engage and disengage. Engaged, the lever is at about 12:30-1:00 o’clock, disengaged maybe 10:00 and that is pretty close to what the owner’s manual shows. The hydraulic fluid was really milky, gotta rebuild that anyways. Should I spray down the insides of the housing with carb or brake cleaner to get rid of debris and H2O, or is there another preferred method? The unit itself, I will clean in my parts cleaner and inspect thoroughly and rebuild, I ordered a kit with springs for the pump too. Many moons ago I rebuilt a lot of car/truck automatic transmissions, so it shouldn’t be too hard for me…hopefully. Is there a filter for the hydraulic fluid? Fuel is dripping from the fitting on the bottom of the tank…that needs to be fixed. I’m now thinking that I will remove all of the tin and the fuel tank. Probably, maybe, take the radiator to a radiator shop and have them clean and test. The inside of the fuel tank looks pretty good, but there is a welding rod in there. Probably someone was checking the fuel level at some point and dropped it in there. The left parking brake is frozen, I sprayed it, but haven’t messed with it since. The right side parking brake lever is missing, I can make one. The wiring is a nightmare…two solenoids, broke off key, hacked and bare/brittle wire here and there, etc…
What I want to do right now is clean it up, rewire it correctly with new harness and gauges, change all fluids and filters, both radiator hoses, belt, rebuild the hydraulics, make sure the PTO is ok and put it to work…tis the season. I bought some gauges and fuel sending unit on ebay because the ones on this site for a 12 volt don’t look like the originals. I have ordered everything else from this site…they do provide the forums, which has helped me for many a year. One thing that I can’t find though is the cam follower pin or even a part number for it. I have seen some people just turn them over, I wouldn’t do that. If it is worn and I had to reuse it, I would weld it up and turn back down on the lathe. If that turns out to be the case, should I temper it after turning or leave it as is? I would much rather just replace it with the correct new part.

Any advice and ideas would be greatly appreciated. I’m not a big ego type of guy, you’re not going to P me off or hurt my feelings…so let it fly…

My previous posts about this tractor can be found in the two links below.

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1115162&highlight=

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1116700&highlight=

Thanks!!!

DD

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TNDavid

04-07-2014 00:29:32
98.68.198.148



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 Re: New to me 841 in reply to TNDavid, 04-05-2014 03:40:07  
Thanks for the feedback!! I will hopefully have some time tomorrow night to take the PTO shaft back out and disassemble/inspect. And hopefully remove the tin, maybe even pull the lift cover. One thing that nobody has commented on is the hydro cam follower pin. Of course I don’t know what it looks like yet, but I’m assuming that it is worn.
Also, what is a good formula or procedure for removing the black and green mold/mildew/algae crap? I’m thinking about spraying it down with bleach and pressure wash after letting is sit for a while. Of course I will spray the engine as well as any other greasy/oily places with degreaser, use a parts brush here and there and then pressure wash. I would replace some engine gaskets, but I just really need to get it in good working order and put it to use. If there are any bad leaks, they will let themselves be known and I will address as needed. Next winter, or maybe ever during summer I will get deeper.
Thanks!!

DD

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john B. ne in

04-06-2014 16:18:25
67.236.129.161



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 Re: New to me 841 in reply to TNDavid, 04-05-2014 03:40:07  
I would change the fluid in the transmission along with the hydraulic and rear end. I found a 801 for my neighbor last fall. I should have had him change all the fluids. Turns out there was water in all three compartments. The water in the hydraulic manifold froze and burst. Luckily Zane, a poster on here, had a used one.



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soundguy

04-05-2014 10:34:54
207.30.46.70



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 Re: New to me 841 in reply to TNDavid, 04-05-2014 03:40:07  
deffinately, without a doubt, rebuild the pto shaft assy or repalce it. that thrust play will get wirse and cause other harder to repair problems if left unatended.

I like to flush wet sumps with kerosene or diesel or mineral spirts, mixed with some atf type f or dex/mer 3, plus some 90% rubbing alcohol. 1-2g diesel to a quart of atf to a pint or 2 of alcohol, depending on how bad the water was. victory lap around the yard and drain.

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cbrown9064

04-05-2014 08:26:19
96.3.144.182



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 Re: New to me 841 in reply to TNDavid, 04-05-2014 03:40:07  
Way too much play in PTO shaft. You can get a whole new assembly form this site for approx $150ish. Or order the bearings, seal and snap ring. I would get the seal from CNH, as the Tisco ones are junk. Check the bearing holder for wear also. If the bearing retainer or shaft are worn, it will be just as cheap to get the whole assembly.

I would not use water in the hydro compartment, some brake clean is OK, but would prefer diesel. Same with rear end. As long as you have hydro drained, drain rear, fix PTO shaft and refill with 134D fluid. I use 134D in all three sumps. Will need 2 5 gallon buckets to do all 3 sumps.

Looks like a nice tractor, just needs some TLC
This post was edited by cbrown9064 at 18:13:03 04/05/14.

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stevob671

04-05-2014 05:51:11
74.46.182.14



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 Re: New to me 841 in reply to TNDavid, 04-05-2014 03:40:07  
That is about the right positions for the pto lever, but there shouldn't be that much movement in the shaft itself. I would check bearings etc. Diesels do have a second solenoid for the glow plugs. Some P.O.s don't change oil very often, do they. I would also change tranny and rear end, then you know. Gonna be a nice looking straight tractor when you're done. Enjoy!



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TNDavid

04-05-2014 04:41:26
98.68.189.172



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 Re: New to me 841 in reply to TNDavid, 04-05-2014 03:40:07  
Some pics...

Engaged



Disengaged



Hydraulic Fluid



Wiring Example



Po boy's shop

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