What parts should I replace on 4000 injector pump?

I have a Ford 4000 1971? with 3 cyl diesel.
The injector pump is leaking from the throttle shaft. I am going to use the below links to reference part#'s and help to remove the top cover and replace the o-rings on the throttle and cut-off shafts as well as the top cover gasket.

What other parts would you advise I change while I have the top cover off? And where can I order them online? see diagram in second link below for parts blowup.


The tractor runs fine but often requires a shot of starting fluid especially after it is hot.
Should I also refresh some parts in the end cap with the filter in it. Reference is part # 1 of the 2nd link below.

I can tell from researching it I am not qualified to really go any further than removing the top cover, and like i say it is running fine.
Thks for looking!
Winston


http://www.solidebolide.nl/downloads/CAV%20Workshop%20Manual%20fuel-injection-pump.pdf

http://www.tractorforum.com/attachments/f203/19880d1384252212-ford-4000-3-cylinder-injector-pump-issue-cav-fuel-injection-pump-diesel-2000-3000-4000-65_-5000-11-72_-1-.pdf
 

Hard stating when hot is a classic symptom of a well worn pump. Being worn it can develop full pressure and fuel atomization only with cold, thicker fuel. To verify this shut it off when hot then pour some water over the pump if it starts way better it is wear, and needs a complete rebuild. Dieseltech, who frequents these forums does good work at reasonable pricing.
 
I take exception to your test. That sounds like a good way to seize the rotor to the head. One crank with the starter motor and that pump is junk. It's been done way too many times, most often unintentionally.
 

About 10 years ago(when I knew even less than the little i know now) I had the ford dealer make a service call because it wouldn't start. I wasn't here when the mechanic came and got it started. When I talked to the shop manager he told me to fix it I needed a $1000 injector pump just for starters. I found all the mechanic did was spray a shot of starting fluid in it and thats what i have been doing for the past ten years when it won't start and runs fine but I only do light duty.
Anyway I got he bill for the service call and noticed a charge of about $10 for a can of starting fluid and a $6 shop waste charge. He didn't leave the rest of the can of starting fluid with me and i know if he had used a whole can of starting fluid it would have blown the tractor up. I have not done business with M&I Ford since.
 
(quoted from post at 07:22:55 03/16/14) I take exception to your test. That sounds like a good way to seize the rotor to the head. One crank with the starter motor and that pump is junk. It's been done way too many times, most often unintentionally.

Easy Easy there Bern!! I didn't say cold water I didn't say hot water, I can't see 80 degree water (the pump gets hot like this when it is hot out in the summer) causing a problem with a pump that is maybe 140 degrees hanging off the side of the motor in the breeze.
 
(reply to post at 10:23:13 03/16/14)
mp;#65532
Nevermind i see the plate covered with a thick coat of paint plus it has to be the one list on the ford parts lest search pad
Where is the part number stamped on the pump?
Actually that is not my pump in my first post, mine has the rather large spring on the throttle shaft. think the part # for my pump may be 87840746.
 
The fact that you didn't clarify and urge caution is what concerned me. Many a pump has been seized by having water thrown at it. If you know what you're doing, then fine, but someone is going to do it wrong and cause $1000 plus worth of damage.
 
Pouring water on the pump when it's not turning is fine. Obviously not cold water on a hot pump. Luke warm to cool water is fine as long as it's not spining when you do it. I've seen it done many, many times. In some areas of Iraq and Afghanistan - it had to be done with many Humvees with GM diesel V8s. It can be a problem on any diesel injection pump that has a distributor section (not in-line pumps). Standard test for a worn distributor (head & rotor) is to cool off with water and then see if it starts better.
 
If pump has high hours, or had poor filter care I would suspect the hydraulic head has internal leak wear at the rotor inlet ports, common on rotory pumps. When hot the barrel expands, and the inlet rotor ports leak the high pressure fuel as the cam ring forces the plungers in during injection. Neighbor had an Oliver 1950T that he carried a jug of water in the cab, gave the pump a splash whenever it would be hot. Even though the inlet ports are out of register during injection the fine grooves worn around the rotor AND the barrel ID have more leakage, which lowers delivery to the injectors.
 

How long do you pour the water on the pump before restart.

Schadenfreude! I just found out the Ford dealer I was bitching about in my above post is no longer has a Ford license to steal and my not even exist anymore.
 
(quoted from post at 22:59:47 03/16/14)
How long do you pour the water on the pump before restart.

Schadenfreude! I just found out the Ford dealer I was bitching about in my above post is no longer has a Ford license to steal and my not even exist anymore.

I carried a gallon milk jug and poured about half of it, waited a minute for it to penetrate, then cranked and it would start right up.
 

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