Ford 4000 info

joebanjocolo · Mar 15, 2014

Hello,

New to the forum.

I just purchased a 1970 Ford 4000 and am having some trouble with the ID. All the S/N's check out except the first part which is D1414C , I cant seem to find a chassis ID number of 14, does anybody have any info in this?

Thanks

Joe

mhb@ufe · Mar 15, 2014

D14 is a 4000 SU
1 = diesel vertical exhaust
4 = Ind 540 PTO
C = 8x2 manual transmission

Mark

Winston Jones · Mar 15, 2014

I can't seem to decipher my numbers either. help please
M4004
1L5B
A219944

joebanjocolo · Mar 15, 2014

Mark,

Thanks! 4000 SU, I had a feeling thats what it was, but could not find any thing to verify it.

mhb@ufe · Mar 16, 2014

I believe your tractor is a European version which I don't have records for so it requires some guess work on my part.
M4000 = M? 4000 model
1L5B is a date code
1 = 71
L = November
B = second shift
A219944 is the serial number

If you post a picture of the whole tractor and one of the front axle we might be able to determine which US model it is closest to.

Mark

Sean in PA · Mar 16, 2014

M4000 is not a valid model number, even for a European model. Plus, the oval stamping with the Ford script was not a standard stamping either. I think that transmission may have been replaced at some point by a dealer that stamped it that way.

Check on the under side of the right side hood panel to see if the foil sticker might still be there with the model number on it.

If the foil sticker isn't there or isn't legible then post some good pictures of the tractor showing the left and right sides plus the front and rear axles and we should be able to tell what it is.

mhb@ufe · Mar 16, 2014

The serial number beginning with A is what led me to believe it is a European tractor.

Mark

jwjsr · Mar 16, 2014

(reply to post at 05:12:28 03/16/14)

Thanks guys,I noticed soundguy asked someone for left side#s in a similar situation, here they are
Left Side #s

1L04B
E70E07

jwjsr · Mar 16, 2014

I'm have trouble uploading pics, is there a limit to the number of pics, or a size limit for each pic. i think they were HDR and I waited about fifteen minutes but they disappear when I click preview or submit. I'm gonna try again on e at a time.

jwjsr · Mar 16, 2014

/Users/Me/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Masters/2014/03/16/20140316-082521/IMG_1182.JPG

jwjsr · Mar 16, 2014

had to go a round about way but i think i got some pics posted finally.
well not posted but at least links that you may have to copy to pull up.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/rzsy5el1guke85k/2014-03-16%2007.53.56.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/kvecg3uuacszqrq/2014-03-16%2007.49.43.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/twqtc2nr7ehme4g/2014-03-16%2007.54.36.jpg

mhb@ufe · Mar 16, 2014

Looks like a 4000 all purpose.

jwjsr · Mar 16, 2014

foil sticker is long gone, just kinda wondering why my #s don't decipher like everyone else's.
thanks for the help

Sean in PA · Mar 16, 2014

As I said, I think that the transmission was probably replaced at some point with a new one, and the dealer was supposed to stamp the original numbers from the old trans into the new one but for some reason they didn't stamp the model number correctly. Possibly the tractor originally had a different transmission and the dealer didn't know what the correct codes were to stamp the new one.

The production codes are both from a year that ends in a 1 (1971 or 1981). The reason I say that is that it has a one piece grill looks like a 4600 rather then a 4000, so if it is a 4600 then the production code would mean 1981 instead of 1971.

Does it have a single large handle for the 3 point lift control with a smaller lever down near the base of the large handle, or does it have two large handles?

Sean in PA · Mar 16, 2014

(quoted from post at 09:53:48 03/16/14) The serial number beginning with A is what led me to believe it is a European tractor.

Mark

Mark, I agree that the A at the beginning of the serial number should mean that it was assembled ant the Antwerp, Belgium factory. The model number codes were the same for all 3 factories though, so the model number M4000 is just not a valid model number stamping for any factory.

Fordfarmer · Mar 16, 2014

Not a 4600... notice the tach cable hanging down by
the alternator, and the placement of the muffler.
4600's had the exhaust exiting more toward the front
of the hood, to keep the noise level by the operator
lower.

jwjsr · Mar 16, 2014

(quoted from post at 11:35:22 03/16/14) As I said, I think that the transmission was probably replaced at some point with a new one, and the dealer was supposed to stamp the original numbers from the old trans into the new one but for some reason they didn't stamp the model number correctly. Possibly the tractor originally had a different transmission and the dealer didn't know what the correct codes were to stamp the new one.

The production codes are both from a year that ends in a 1 (1971 or 1981). The reason I say that is that it has a one piece grill looks like a 4600 rather then a 4000, so if it is a 4600 then the production code would mean 1981 instead of 1971.

Does it have a single large handle for the 3 point lift control with a smaller lever down near the base of the large handle, or does it have two large handles?

Neither I don't think.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ssgm0qui6amsnhn/2014-03-16%2022.38.29.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/nd31pip5bdgwwoc/2014-03-16%2022.37.58.jpg

Sean in PA · Mar 17, 2014

Single large 3 point handle, so it looks like it's a general purpose ag chassis 4000 from all of you pictures so far, and the production codes would mean that it's a 1971 tractor. Only thing we can't tell since it doesn't have a proper model number is what transmission it has. It should probably be a 6 or 8 speed, and it should have independent PTO.

I see that it does have a differential lock, but it looks like the shaft for the draft/position control lever has broken off though.

The original grill would have been a 2 piece with the headlights set inside the lower grill piece since it was made in Antwerp, and when some previous owner replaced the grill with the later x600 style grill without the inset headlights they had to move the lights out to the side, but they didn't use the stock holes up near the top to mount them like a US built tractor would have had, and instead they chose to keep them down at the same height as the original ones that were set in the grill.

And is that a piece 2x6 or 2x8 for a seat pan support and a bicycle seat style spring underneath to keep it from bottoming out? Maybe the seat collapsed onto the draft/position control handle at some point in the past and that's what snapped the shaft off?

jwjsr · Mar 17, 2014

Good eye! I didn't know a shaft was broken,I have hardly driven it the last 3 or 4 yrs as had a guy living in the back house doing the riding. I don't raise the 3 point much as I only use it to pull a finish mower but I think the hydr needs a little attention. I think it probably leaks down and when I drove it around back yesterday I raised the mower about a foot and looked back after about 20 yards and the mower had wandered all the way to its highest position. I messed with it for about 30 seconds but couldn't get it to stop wandering. Is that likely related to the broken shaft you noticed? In the pics I can't see that broken shaft you are referring to, I haven't been out back to look since u posted.

I hadn't noticed the a-engineering under the seat until I took those pics yesterday. I knew it was rusting badly, maybe I can save it.
I think you are spot on about the headlights and yes it does have an 8 speed tranny and I'll have to re-read the the Pto info to verify it is independent, I forget just how the clutch works with it.

Ha, that spring is for your beverage of choice.

Sean in PA · Mar 17, 2014

Looking back at your pictures, I may have been mistaken about the broken shaft for the draft control lever. Look at the part diagram in the link below. The lever I am referring to is labeled as part number 40 in the diagram.

[u:0f57f3760d]http://partstore.agriculture.newholland.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr64887ar322610[/u:0f57f3760d]

Your picture is very close up, not entirely in focus, and from an odd angle so I can't tell if the draft control lever is just mostly hidden behind other parts in that picture or if it should be visible but is missing. I think I might see it behind your "cup holder" spring in that one picture:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ssgm0qui6amsnhn/2014-03-16%2022.38.29.jpg

Fordfarmer · Mar 17, 2014

That is a Thousand series 3-point control, not an
x600.

jwjsr · Mar 17, 2014

Goody , that unbroken lever is behind my cup holder.
Wonder if you could answer this. Soundguy recommended to some one to cut a racquetball in half drill a hole in them and slip them down the shaft of the transmission lever shafts to stop water from leaking into the tranny of a 3000. See my tranny lever pictures a couple of posts back, it looks to me it would take a larger ball to cover from the top of the spring to the tranny. Maybe it is not supposed to go all the way to the tranny and just serve as an umbrella?

jwjsr · Mar 17, 2014

Could you link me to more info on the thousand? I'm fixing to try and give it a little attention.

Sean in PA · Mar 18, 2014

(quoted from post at 00:18:11 03/18/14) Could you link me to more info on the thousand? I'm fixing to try and give it a little attention.

Routine maintenance like changing fluids and filters is covered in the Operator's Manual. This site sells a reprint of the original Operator's manual here:

[u:1dc4c1fe80]
Ford 4000 Operator's Manual[/u:1dc4c1fe80]

For more extensive Repair & Replace types of servicing, you should get a shop/service manual.

The I&T FO-31 is an aftermarket service manual that covers most of the systems on the tractor. They can be had for under $30.00. This site also sells that one:

[u:1dc4c1fe80]I&T FO-31 Aftermarket Service Manual[/u:1dc4c1fe80]

The original Ford Shop Manual is much larger and goes into much more detail but can be a little more expensive. You can also get that one on this site:

[u:1dc4c1fe80]Ford Service Manual for 3 cylinder 4000[/u:1dc4c1fe80]

Most folks usually recommend that you have both the I&T and the Ford service manuals, as there are things that one covers better than the other, and the Ford manual sometimes calls for special tools that are no longer available, and the I&T manual will give "alternate" methods that do not require the special tools.

jwjsr · Mar 18, 2014

Thanks for lending your expertise to my post.

Ford 4000 info

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