New to me Ford 4000 TLB, 4cyl, 1961ish??

Hey guys,
I've heard this is the place to be for some Ford 4000 love. I just got it a couple weeks back so I can do some maintenance around the acreage (12.5 acres with 1/3mile long driveway). We have some drainage issues and driveway issues and some other stuff I want to accomplish around the place but guess that"s not here nor there. Hoping you guys can steer me in the right direction on some of the following. Also what is the lift capacity of my front loader?

Current issues:
1.) leaking cylinders on loader... All of them.
2.) main pin to back hoe buck sheered and not sure of diameter?

Wanted upgrades:
1.) 12v igniton
2.) quick attach/skid loader attachment capability
3.) ROPS

Also how the heck do you post pics? I can choose files to upload and they show up but then they don't load to forum
 
Welcome to the best board on the internet to ask about that tractor.
You will need to make a certain # of posts before you are allowed to post photos or links.
Maybe 10? not sure. Spam guard...
Others here are much better equipped to answer questions about that tractor. I mostly just do the 3 cylinder Fords.
Anyway, here are your photos;

ford1.jpg


ford.jpg
 
Thanks!

Just got in touch with a guy that has 1.25" cold roll (steel bar) so hopefully that is the right diameter to jam in for that rear backhoe pin...

I also found the parts area and found the 2" and 3" cylinder rebuild kits for my front loader. Speaking of loader is it just me or does it seem like they should have made the loader 6" wider so it would span the wheel width of the tires? Still curious about front loader lift capability and whether it will lift a dry or wet pallet of wood. Also considering modifying to add an accessory hydraulic line up front for a log grapple, but that depends on my lift capability too. I might just drag them.

As for the engine is there any benefit to the 3cyl vs 4cyl models. Power/torque/reliability?

And before anyone asks... Yes it's a SOS tranny and it works just fine so far.
 
I believe your loader is a model 19-97 Ford
Industrial Loader manufactured by Dearborn.

I purchased one last year for my 1963 Ford 4000 and
am very happy with it.

The rated load at full lift is 1000 lbs.
 
That"s a 4000 Light Industrial with a Ford 703 loader. There were wider buckets made for the 703. I"m not familiar with the backhoes but someone who is will be along soon. I wouldn"t worry about painting it- just use it as is.
The heavy industrial was a 4040 and had a cast iron nose and was a much stouter TLB. Over to the left side of this page under "Tractor Photos" you can find photos of a 4040.
 
Hello Chainsaw , Alan is the closet one to being right but not completely . You do have a 4000 Light Duty Industrial tractor it is a model number 4030 and was built between 1960 and 1962 . The Ford Loader NOT DEARBORN is a model 19-249 series 720 and lifts 2500 pounds . The backhoe is a Ford 19-300 12 foot dig depth series 723 . Cold Rolled steel is no good for the backhoe pin even if you have it hardened it is not strong enough to resist shearing and it will . No one makes a ROPS for those older models and there is basicially no where to mount one anyways that would do any good even if you could roll it over . You can get hydraulic cylinder packing repair kits at your local hydraulic shop , packings only go by inside and outside diameter measurements not by what they fit so those will not be a problem . Pertronix makes 12 volt electronic ignition kits and 12 volt charging can be done many different ways so that is also not a problem . You can also get a Blank Quick Attachment Plate and you will have to weld mounting brackets on to the back of it so you can mount it to the Ford Loader then you can attach any Quick attach implement to it . Where are you located ? Thanks Tony
 
(quoted from post at 08:48:29 03/06/14) Hey guys,
I've heard this is the place to be for some Ford 4000 love.

Current issues:
1.) leaking cylinders on loader... All of them.
2.) main pin to back hoe buck sheered and not sure of diameter?

Wanted upgrades:
1.) 12v igniton
2.) quick attach/skid loader attachment capability
3.) ROPS

Looks a lot like my 4000. Mine is a 1963 with a 723/724 loader-hoe and a Sherman under-over aux. trans. I got it from the guy that bought it new. I stuck a 12 volt battery and a Delco 12SI alternator in it 20 years ago and that's worked fine. It had a home-made ROPS on it when I got it and I removed it. BIG pain-in-the-butt that kept me from getting into tight and low places.
I've had three "trouble spots." One is where the loader-hoe frame bolts to the engine. It can come loose and crack the engine block. Two -is the convoluted pump drive for the 23 GPM Cessna pump in front. Keep an eye on it. Nice thing is ALL the splined shafts, couplers, etc. are still available here on this Website. Three- the odd-ball British hydraulic fittings on all the hoses on the backhoe. After years of jerking around - I got adapters that change them all to standard pipe thread. Now when I blow a hose- things are much easier. Note these old Fords are overpowered in regard to the hydraulics and can break themselves if you are not careful.
mvphoto4463.jpg


mvphoto4464.jpg


mvphoto4465.jpg
 
Thanks for the input guys. The plan is to power-wash it all down for the wife to paint. She wants to feel helpful and she helped paint the tractors on her dad's farm growing up. So I don't think I'll be stopping her from a new paint job on it. Besides that we don't have kids yet and it's nice to have projects to work on together. IE: I do mechanical and she'll work on aesthetics. Besides that I'll have a bunch of the cylinders off and it will give her access to paint the nooks and cranny's.

I need a new fuel shut off valve is the first thing to make it run without a constant gas drip. I found them on ebay for $30. Do I have to pull the gas tank to get the new valve on?

Second is what should I get to replace the broken pin in terms of steel???
 
This looks like the valve I have. Is there something better to replace it with? or should I just order one and be done with it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-FUEL-GAS-SHUT-OFF-TAP-VALVE-600-601-701-800-801-901-2000-4000-C0NN9285A-/141028362254?pt=BI_Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item20d5f2080e
 
I have attached a link to a pictorial/tutorial I wrote on rebuilding the existing valve rather than buying one of those replacement valves that will start leaking soon after you install it.
No, the valve can be replaced with the tank installed on the tractor but your loader will make it an extremely tough job. It may be easier to remove the hood and tank.
Fuel Valve Repair
 
I recently replaced my leaky fuel shutoff valve
using the same style valve shown from a different
ebay store (latch type with 45 degree angle) and
it is working well at this time.

With the loader attached, the tank empty and the
engine cool, I was able to reach in with a box
wrench and loosen the fuel line nut and then
remove the two bolts holding the valve to the
tank.

I did find that the provided o-ring was slightly
over-sized and the screen was slightly under-
sized. I cleaned and re-used the original screen
but was able to squeeze (roll) the provided o-ring
into the groove of the valve.
 

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