Ford 640, lift stuck up

NYTX · Feb 16, 2014

The hydraulic (lift) is stuck in the up position and will not come down. I added fluid since it was low before I got the tractor started and it went up with lever down once the tractor was running. The fluid is a milky white which indicates water in the system. On the 8N page, http://www.oldfordtractors.com/rep.htm#q20, it says this is likely a stuck valve.

1. Where to start?
2. Drain and replace?
3. A similar discussion mentions a soundguy method to get the water out?
4. A simple method to at least get the draw bar lowered?
5. General thoughts on repair cost, time, etc?

Thanks.

old · Feb 16, 2014

First thing to do is pull the inspection plate and have a look see inside. Having a FO-20 manual is a big help at that point

souNdguy · Feb 17, 2014

first determine if the lift is held up hydraulically. (probably not ).. or mechanically. ( probably ).

remov ethe plug in the 3x5 cover under the seat. it a jet of oil comes out and the lift drops.. stuck valve!

if no oil comes out and lift don't drop, leave plug out and take a drilling hammer and tap on the arms. could be simple rust on the shaft making them tight in the bushings.

if the sump is wet.. add osme diesel and atf and 90% rubbing alcohol to it. ride it around the yard a couple laps.. then drain ( flush ).. and refill. do remember to put that plug in BEFORE starting tractor.

post back

NYTX · Feb 17, 2014

Removed cap and fluid didn't squirt in my eyes' but it was not running. By drilling hammer I assume you mean " hand sledge"' 4# or 5#, or at least that is the term I use. I did jump on the bar holding the fenders, but will step it up a notch to some gentle persussison.

On the mixture, thoughts on amount (pint, quart, etc) proportions (1:1:1, etc)

Thanks.

souNdguy · Feb 18, 2014

not sure what cap you removed.. but i'm talking about a plug. a pipe plug.. not a cap.

drilling hammer is likely 2-3#

when i clean em i put in about 3g diesel, a quart of atf and a couple pints of 90% alcohol. if it was real wet. 3 pints.. etc.

JMOR · Feb 18, 2014

(quoted from post at 10:04:46 02/18/14) not sure what cap you removed.. but i'm talking about a plug. a pipe plug.. not a cap.

drilling hammer is likely 2-3#

when i clean em i put in about 3g diesel, a quart of atf and a couple pints of 90% alcohol. if it was real wet. 3 pints.. etc.

his plug:

NYTX · Feb 18, 2014

Thanks guys. I didn't read Soundguy's comment
thoroughly and confused it with the fill cap.

On the cleaning solution, do I just add that in on
top of what is already in there or should I drain
it first, add the solution, run it, then drain and
refill with fluid?

souNdguy · Feb 18, 2014

drian first then dump my stuff in.

edit that to be 2g diesel and 1qt atf and a couple pints alcohol.

the earleir 3g version is for N's with common sump. while te hyds on a 00/naa will hold 3g.. no need to fill it that much for a flush. waste of diesel.

NYTX · Feb 28, 2014

Update

When I removed the plug, fluid came out (got a soaking) and the lift fell.

I ran the cleaning solution through twice and drawbar still raises to highest level as soon as I start it again.

It is now completely drained (no oil), and it holds the drawbar at level that I could pull a wagon with.

So, a few questions

1. Will I harm anything if I don't put fluid back in and hook up a wagon with very little weight and pull it around? I will not be using the hydraulics to lift anything. This is just a temporary setup until I can work on it again. If I put any oil in, it will likely raise the drawbar so high it will not be usable.

2. What are my next steps? I have the repair manual, but prefer not to just start taking things apart without knowing what I should be looking for. The disassemble looks straight-forward enough, but once all the bolts are out, which valve (using terms that correlate with the manual) should I focus on?

3. Any items should look out for when removing?

Thanks for all your help.

Glen

souNdguy · Feb 28, 2014

if you run it without oil you will ruin the 500$ pump bolted to the side of the engine.

if the lift is going max at start.. the unload valve is sticking.. you need to pull the lift cover to address it.

NYTX · Feb 28, 2014

Thanks. I will fill it up and post back.

souNdguy · Feb 28, 2014

if you have to use it and need lift half up, run a hose from the 3x5 cover under the seat ( plug there ). and run it to the hyds sump fill, that will let pressure off the lift piston. then chain the lift arms to the axle with a block of wood under them to keep them at set height.

that willlet you drag a drawbar implement. and not ruin the pump. oil will cycle out of the top cover back to hyds sump under lefs side of seat ( fill hole )

NYTX · Feb 28, 2014

Thanks. I assume you are referring to a hydraulic type hose with threaded connections/fittings at each end so I can attach them.

Do you think I could find a standard hose or need to have one made since I am guessing the fittings are different at each end? I know the plug size, but I will have to look at the tractor in the morning to find the fill hole you are talking about.

souNdguy · Feb 28, 2014

the top port is pipe thread, and the fill cap under yer left thigh is a bung opening. just cram the hose in there and stuff a rag around it..

NYTX · Feb 28, 2014

So the hydraulic lift filler cap is called a bung opening? Curious, but I believe you.

I think I get the idea. Since the pressure is low, any issues using pipe clamps for the hose connection at the plug?

I will post photos of the temporary setup. Maybe it will come free during this period, unlikely knowing my luck.

Thanks again, very much appreciated.

NYTX · Mar 1, 2014

So what do you think of the setup? Filled it with oil.

I don't feel any pressure/fluid in the line, is that okay?

How long can I run it like this? A few hours? As long as I want if I don't need the hydraulics?

Thanks.

NYTX · Mar 1, 2014

Update, I add a ball valve so I can check to see if is still stuck,
which it still is.

Mark Slater · Mar 1, 2014

If this setup is to relieve pressure it's probably not a good idea to put that ball valve on it.
Brass ball valves aren't usually rated for hydraulic pressures.

Can't really tell from the picture but it looks like you have Teflon tape on the threads. Teflon tape won't hold up too long before it starts weeping oil.

NYTX · Mar 1, 2014

I agree and yes that is Teflon tape. My purpose was to
temporarily use it without the lift raising. The ball valve is
always open so there is very little pressure and I am not
running the system dry as recommended not too. If I close the
valve, the lift will raise, so it does allow me to "test" the status
of my stuck valve since I am hoping (more like praying) it will
release and I will not have do the repair. This allows me to
monitor for a while.

That said, your points are well taken. Thanks.

Mark Slater · Mar 2, 2014

OK, If you are going to keep the ball valve on the pressure relief loop, for occasional checking, you must make sure the lift never reaches the limit and so never allow full pressure on those fittings. It should be safe to partially close the ball valve for a few seconds to check the condition of the unload valve, as long as the ball valve is re-opened quickly. Otherwise your trousers will get a bath of oil when it pops.

Also, If you are going to use the tractor with the temp fix in place, you will want to keep the ball valve handle from moving accidentally. Tie the handle to the valve or lock it some other way.

Hope your temporary setup works out for you until you can get around to repairing the lift valves.

BTW - I see green grass in your pictures. I'm very jealous. I haven't seen green grass since October.

NYTX · Mar 2, 2014

Good idea about securing it open.

I can sympathize with you about the grass. I grew up outside Albany NY, in the Catskills, but after being in Texas for the last twenty, it's hard to remember those days

Thanks again.

Ford 640, lift stuck up

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