3500 rear axle shaft pic for wear

DavidLA

Member
I got the right axle shaft out today with the intentions of solving the grinding noise from that side. when i took her out i noticed 2 things i was wondering if anyone could send me some advice on.

first, i can wobble the hub about a 1/4 inch back and forth on the axle shaft because of bearing play. does that seem like the bearing is worn? or do they install loose as that?

second i noticed that the ridges on the end of the shaft seem worn a good bit. i shined a flashlight down the trumpet to see the receiving splines and they don't seem to be as worn, a little more pointed on the ridges. i don't see them as being a source of the grinding noise, but i'm not sure, has anyone heard of the splines being a source of noise without failing completely?

would appreciate any help i could get. i will try to attach a picture of the spline.

thanks,david
a145535.jpg
 
I just had the axles out of my 2000 last fall to replace seals. The splines were shiny. Yours don't look damaged and I can see just a little burr from contact. Is the face on the end clean and smooth? It contacts the other shaft to control end play. Did you check end play before you took it out? The bearing will be loose until both axles are bolted up. Push the hub toward the axle flange and turn it to see it the bearing feels rough. Splines won't make noise unless they're wiped out, but then the tractor won't move either. Do you have differential lock? Internal or external brakes?
 
The face end of the shaft is clean and smooth no galling or rubbing with the other shaft noticed. before i pulled the axle the end play was nearly zero, very little movement at all, although i didn't put a gauge on it, but i'd say.. a hair at best. the bearing feels pretty smooth when pushed up against the hub and turned, but boy is it loose. i pulled the axles in my dexta a few years ago to replace seals and don't remember the hubs flopping around like this, but then its hard to remember that far back. i'm going to put a new bearing anyway, its just i'd hate to put it all back together and miss the cause of the noise, and have to pull it out again. thanks
 
i just did a price check on the locking nut, its $113!
do you all reuse the locking nut? put locktite on it or something on reassemble?
 
Either cleaned oil of axle or its kinda dry in there. How much oil is in hyd/ra compartment? Had one several years ago that popped quite a lot so pulled axle and trumpet found pinion bearings out.
 
nah, not dry,
i had already scrubbed her good before the pic. oil was up to drain hole in compartment. the sound is more grinding than popping. more like if a bearing is covered in rust and dry. but there was no rust on the bearing just very loose.
 
Yeah, save it if you can. My 2000 had the shrink collars and they were $36 each. Is the bearing itself (rollers) loose on the axle shaft or is it bearing retainer what it flopping around?
 
its the bearing itself, it seems as though the rollers are what is giving it the loose play. i didn't know if they were designed to be as loose as that, and just tighten up when the hub is squeezed down or something. i can grab each side of the hub and move at least a 1/4 inch in each direction.
 
forgot to mention,
i have external brakes and the diff lock. i thought that maybe the diff lock was making the grinding noise, but with the backhoe and loader on, i didn't want to have to pull the trumpet unless i absolutely had to. thus the effort to change the bearing first.
 
The axle looks fine to me. Stand it on it's flange... then grab the hub and see if you can move that vertically. If it's got any movement, break it down and inspect/replace the bearing.
The axle nut is a nyloc and can be reused if you don't bugger it up. If you do or it looks poor... you can get one from A&I for about 40 bucks.
Don't waste your time with foolish pullers when trying to remove the bearing either... pop a few of the studs from the flange so you can get it properly situated in a press and push the shaft out. Just make sure that you support the hub correctly.... and that will take some work. New bearing is heated to ~400 deg and dropped in place.

Rod
 
is the race and bearing one piece, or are they separate? i can't tell from the parts diagram/list. if its separate, do i pull the race too, or just replace the bearing?
thanks
 
It's a standard tapered roller bearing. It will be supplied as a set with cone and cup. Replace both.

Rod
 
Rod,

I'm going to have to disagree with you on your statement about vertical end play of the hub. Even when the bearing is new and the nut is tight, as I recall, there is noticeable end play of the assembly that makes it seem like something is really wrong. It's not until you install them both in the tractor and properly shim it that end play becomes what it should. Those axle shafts butt up against each other inside.
 
You may be correct... but I don't recall seeing much play in the 3000 I dealt with. I remember the hub will roll around some on the cone but as I recall the bearing is an interference fit on the shaft.

Rod
 
Yes, the bearing cone and roller assy is most definitely a press fit on the shaft, however, if the hub is not bolted to the axle housing, it is free to flop around a little. In other words, there is nothing to force the hub (and installed bearing cup) towards the cone and roller assy until the hub is bolted to the trumpet housing. A fairly tight seal might be what made it feel snug.

I felt it necessary to correct you here so that others don't think that a problem exists where there is none. End play of either side cannot be checked until BOTH axles are installed.
 

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