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Ford Tractors Discussion Forum
Show Parts for Model:

She ran, now she won't

Author  [Modern View]

10-28-2013 17:15:41

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This is a late 60's/early 70's 4 cyl diesel with a Simms pump, with this forums help, I was able to get it running a few days nothing...

After lubing up the pump, changing the oil in it, I had fuel squirting from all 4 injector lines...nice "squirt"...much better than the dribble I had before:)

So I ran an .045 piece of Mig wire through all the injector, all seems fine.

Ran a separate line off the lift pump into a fresh jug of fuel...tried to fire it...still no go...thinking maybe I just needed to purge the old fuel (+15 years old) out of the lines and filter, I poured a shot..about 1/4 of a cup, maybe 1/2 cup of fresh diesel into the intake, one quick shot of starting fluid and she fired off and ran for a solid 7-8 minutes...first 30-40 second were smoke filled, but cleared out nicely.

So, drained the fuel tank, pulled the filter, drained the housing, purged the lines, reverified I had fuel squirting to each injector, and tried to fire it off again...and nothing...

Gave it a shot of starting fluid (man I hate doing that) and it rattled over foew 2-3 seconds, but would never stay running...

So then did the 1/4 cup of fuel thing again...and nothing...tried again a bit later with a 1/4 cup of fuel down the intake and a shot of starting fluid...seemed a bit better, kept running for 4-6 seconds.'s the interesting thing...trying to think back as to what I may have done differently from when it first started and ran...what I was using was the oil can that I used to fill the injector pump back up after draining it...for sure there was oil left in there...maybe 1/4inch or so, before I poured the fuel in and shook it around..

My thinking is that maybe the diesel mixed with oil maybe sealed up (like a "wet compression test would) worn cylinders/rings?

Thought on that would be appreciated...

Next, which is a pertinent question, how are the injectors removed?...this engine has a FL casting towards the right front side...the injectors appear to sit into a recess in the head...above the injector I can make out "caution" above each injector-if I recall correctly...reason I'd like to pull the injectors is to run a compression test on each cylinder...unless there's some other way I;m not seeing.


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10-29-2013 15:11:18

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 Re: She ran, now she won't in reply to Mbaggs, 10-28-2013 17:15:41  

Ran it twice, now new issue...mercy, might be time to part this thing

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10-29-2013 15:03:40

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 Re: She ran, now she won't in reply to Mbaggs, 10-28-2013 17:15:41  
Instead of starting fluid pull the hose off the intake and use wd40.

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10-29-2013 15:09:14

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 Re: She ran, now she won't in reply to sunbeam, 10-29-2013 15:03:40  
I thought they changed WD-40's propellant? I know it used to be propane...but thought they changed it a few years back to some inert gas?

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10-29-2013 05:48:27

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 Re: She ran, now she won't in reply to Mbaggs, 10-28-2013 17:15:41  
It's probably still air locked. Make sure there's a good flow of fuel coming out of the tank.... reconnect the line. Then remove the filter head bleeder and see what flow you have there with the engine quiet, then while cranking. You should at least get strong flow while cranking. If you have good flow, proceed to bleeding the lines at the injectors. If you don't, probably a bad lift pump. Once you start bleeding the lines, set the throttle to maximum and crank. Once you start getting some decent shots of fuel, close the lines up. If it still won't start, then put the ether to it. STOP dumping fuel into the intake. That's a recipe for disaster, particularly when you add ether. Loading an engine up with fuel and adding ether is how piston lands get blown off and connecting rods get bent....
At any rate, back to bleeding... put ether to it while cranking and regulate the ether bursts to the minimum amount required to make the engine run. When you get it running the lift pump should start moving enough fuel to self bleed...


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Robert Major

10-28-2013 23:10:47

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 Re: She ran, now she won't in reply to Mbaggs, 10-28-2013 17:15:41  
If it ran for a good while I don"t think compression is your problem. Unless it has a de compressor lever that has been moved while working on it. Those motors would practically run with near no rings in L.O.L.
I have re built a fair few of that style motor in Fordson majors. When you get them apart everything tells you it shouldn"t start and run as good as it did!.

If you are sure it has good fuel/ flow and is bled correctly, slackening the lines by the injector and cranking also.
I would take that side plate off the pump and make sure the rack hasn't stuck again. Just because you pushed the stop in doesn't mean the rack went back to the run position !
Those pumps can be famous for that. I have had them do it here starts one day won"t the next.
In fact I have one here now a 6 cylinder in a County like it. It sits a few weeks and the rack needs freeing again the whole motor and pump needs doing on that one, Its so bad it starts like a 3 cylinder with a bad lung infection .
Regards Robert
This post was edited by Robert Major at 23:18:23 10/28/13.

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Brian Allen

10-28-2013 18:05:17

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 Re: She ran, now she won't in reply to Mbaggs, 10-28-2013 17:15:41  

Did you get the tank cleaned out and fuel going to the lift pump?

It sounds like you have air in the system. The pump will not push fuel if there is any air in the supply line.

Purge the air at the bleed points, then tow the tractor until it runs. Or, just tow the tractor until it runs, but it may take a while.


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10-29-2013 13:32:53

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 Re: She ran, now she won't in reply to Brian Allen, 10-28-2013 18:05:17  
I tried to keep it running on ether, but no love, the lift pump had me thinking as my dad had to replace it some 15 years ago when he acquired this compressor.

I have flow out of the rigged a fuel pressure gauge to the output of the pump, and have about 6/7 PSI.

Been searching, but can't find the pressure spec's for it.

I guess I should take it apart and see if the diaphragm ruptured when I had it running before.


PS, I did drain the tank the best I could, there was no crud floating in it and no rust that I could see with my flashlight.

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