my ford 601 workmaster fuel shut off valve inder tank

rei

New User
the shut off/on valve leaked, I took it to the dealer and had a new one put on and what do you know, it leaks to. Is there anything I can do to keep it from leaking. I shut the fuel off and over a bit of time it will leak out and you always smell gas when you go into the barn. any suggestions.
 
My suggestion would be for you to take it back to that dealer .I hope you don't get charged a second time to have it corrected like I did when I had my clutch replaced . God bless , Ken
 
That valve is of a poor design... two types of these valves, those that leak and those that don't but will.
Seriously..a couple of years ago I had to replace the tank on my 641 due to leakage.. bought a NAA type tank from this site, used a different type valve on right side bottom of tank. Have never had any problem since. NAA setup is the way to go.
 
Any idea where I can get a NAA tank. My dad passed and left me the tractor and I"m learning. Thanks
 
look under ford parts on this site. In fuel system section you will find the tank. you will also need the bowl /valve. Go to an auto parts store to get fuel line.
You will need to cut, shape and flare the fuel line to fit. Use the outlet on the driver's right of the tank. Be sure that you do not have any section of the line higher in the middle. This will tend to vapor lock.
You'll wind up with two strainer bowls, one at the outlet and one at the carb OR you can just us a plain valve at the tank and have only the bowl next to the carb.. have fun!
 
If your tank doesn't leak, try the repair suggested by Texas and save a lot of $$$$. I did the tank route because my tank was not savable.
Your call.
 
did the repair in tutorial, June 2011, took about 2 hours, about $2 worth of orings and no leaks yet, and have enough orings to redo it if it leaks again ( enough to do again for next hundred years :)
 
When you do the o-ring replacement, do you HAVE to replace the rivet? Or can you just be careful and only open it one turn?
 
(quoted from post at 09:18:43 10/22/13) When you do the o-ring replacement, do you HAVE to replace the rivet? Or can you just be careful and only open it one turn?

I'm not sure what you mean by being careful and only opening something one turn. You HAVE to remove the rivet to get the stem of the valve out of the housing, and you have to get the stem out to replace the o-ring. If you want to try putting that same rivet back in once the o-ring has been replaced, you're welcome to try, but it will likely leak around the shaft of the rivet since the rivet is now loose in its hole. Tapping the hole and replacing the rivet with a screw has worked for most folks.
 
Worked for me, drill out the rivet, drill out the shaft and tap. Doesn't take much time at all, you can buy a tap and drill combo at about any hardware store if you don't already heve them. I think I tapped mine at 10-24 but don't remember now. Good luck, and keep posting..Kent in KS
 
(quoted from post at 06:47:10 10/22/13)
(quoted from post at 09:18:43 10/22/13) When you do the o-ring replacement, do you HAVE to replace the rivet? Or can you just be careful and only open it one turn?

I'm not sure what you mean by being careful and only opening something one turn. You HAVE to remove the rivet to get the stem of the valve out of the housing, and you have to get the stem out to replace the o-ring. If you want to try putting that same rivet back in once the o-ring has been replaced, you're welcome to try, but it will likely leak around the shaft of the rivet since the rivet is now loose in its hole. Tapping the hole and replacing the rivet with a screw has worked for most folks.

Best to tap the rivet hole to 10/32 and install a screw.Without the screw or the rivet in there the stem could easily back out under vibration and you'd have a massive fuel leak on top of a hot engine.
 
Let me try again. Will the valve leak through the rivet hole if the rivet is not replaced by drilling and taping? In the video it shows threads on one valve but does not look like any threads on the other. I am trying to figure out if I can do this without removing the tank. It would be hard to drill and tap valve without removing the tank.
 
Sorry, now I understand what you're asking. The o-ring that you'll be replacing should keep it from leaking around the stem, but the rivet keeps you from unscrewing the stem too far, so if you don't replace the rivet with a screw then make sure that you don't unscrew the stem too many turns and it shouldn't leak on you, but at my age I would have a hard time remembering something like that for long. :D
 
(quoted from post at 06:21:12 10/23/13) Let me try again. Will the valve leak through the rivet hole if the rivet is not replaced by drilling and taping? In the video it shows threads on one valve but does not look like any threads on the other. I am trying to figure out if I can do this without removing the tank. It would be hard to drill and tap valve without removing the tank.

Bill, Their are 2 "O" ring seals involved with the valve.One is between the tank and valve itself.The other is on the stem.If the rivet is not installed in it's hole and the stem with it's seal is backed out past the hole it will leak.You don't need to remove the tank to remove/reinstall the valve.Just empty the tank, disconnect the fuel line and remove the 2 bolts holding the valve.
 
OK, Thanks. The tractor is 1200 miles away, so I
can't look at it. Didn't think there was enough
room to remove it with the tank on. I put a new
tank on and at least 2 new valves and they still
leak. Got to fix it right.

Bill
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top