Ford 960-5

gr8horse · Oct 16, 2013

Hey love this forum. I figured out how to bleed my hydraulic pump from scurrying around on the site. Easy after I finally saw the post with a clear picture of where to do that. Thank you to the person that posted that photo. 3 point works great now. My tractor is stamped with 960-5 I have researched and discovered that the 900 series tractor is a 960. The site I looked at did not tell me what the 5 meant. Perhaps indicating 5 speed but thought that the 960 was by definition a five speed. Anyone able to tell me. Thanks again

Fordfarmer · Oct 16, 2013

A -5 on the early rowcrops means they came with a factory wide front axle.
At this point, almost any combination of parts is possible on these old tractors. I saw a 960-5 last week that had an aftermarket wide front.

gr8horse · Oct 16, 2013

Yes mine is a factory wide front end. Power steering leaks. I am thinking I should take it to shop that repairs hydraulics and have them rebuild it for me. Does that seem like a decent solution? Not much of a hand with thinks like this

Royse · Oct 16, 2013

Sounds like you have it right. 900 was the series.
950 had a 5 speed and non-live PTO.
960 had the 5 speed and live PTO via a two stage clutch.
Where is your PS leaking?
Makes a big difference in how much of a job it is.

Sean in PA · Oct 16, 2013

The 9 at the beginning means that it is a row crop chassis and that it has the 172 ci engine. The 6 in the middle means that it has a 5 speed transmission and a two stage clutch with live PTO. A 5 in the middle would also be a 5 speed transmission, but it would have a single stage clutch and non-live PTO. The 0 at the end of the model number means that it was part of the "hundred series" of tractors that were made from 1954-1957.

As Fordfarmer said, the -5 at the end means that it had a factory wide front end when it left the factory.

gr8horse · Oct 16, 2013

It appears to be leaking at the cylinder, but I have not had a lot of time to spend checking it out. I need to give the thing a good pressure washing and check it further.

showcrop · Oct 16, 2013

Expect to spend about $500.00 for the cylinder repair. The reason that they leak is that the chrome wears off the rod at mid point on the bottom. So they cut the cylinder open in order to put in a new rod. You can possibly get by with some epoxy. I have one that the rust was not too bad and a new seal stopped the leak but it would have been just temporary because of the rust. So I cleaned up the rust then put a thin coat of epoxy over it. After the epoxy dried I smoothed down with sandpaper, then smoothed down good with 1200. It seems to be lasting well.

gr8horse · Oct 17, 2013

Gulp!!! Might just have to strong arm it for a while. Thanks for the input. Going to check more closely for the leak. It has a pretty heavy coat of crud on it.

Ford 960-5

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