3000 gauges will not work.

I have a 3000 diesel and oil pressure light, temp, and fuel gauge will not work. A rat chewed up the some wire so I spliced them and got the generator light to work, but none of the others. If I put power to the back of the gauges they will go to hot, full ect. I do not think all the senders would go bad at once. Any help would be appreciated.

Been awhile since I got into mine and I can't find a wiring diagram. Power would be off the ignition key and over to a spade male connector on the back of the display assembly. Ground may or may not be through the mounting screws. As I recall the assembly has a printed wiring board and power is routed around to all the circuits from that.

I wouldn't be suspecting the ground. The oil pressure light as I recall gets a ground to the light via the oil pressure switch when closed. That right there would eliminate the ground problem.

Best I can do.

Mark

(quoted from post at 13:06:22 10/02/13) I have a 3000 diesel and oil pressure light, temp, and fuel gauge will not work. A rat chewed up the some wire so I spliced them and got the generator light to work, but none of the others. If I put power to the back of the gauges they will go to hot, full ect. I do not think all the senders would go bad at once. Any help would be appreciated.

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Power should go to the voltage regulator, on the back of the instument panel.

Then from the regulator, it feeds the gauges. The regulator is on the back of the instrument panel. It lowers the voltage on the gauges.
hope this helps.

Power from the key switch should go through a 3 amp fuse and then to the voltage stabilizer on the back of the instrument cluster (not voltage regulator). From where the power comes into the stabilizer, there should be another jumper that goes on to the oil pressure and generator warning lamps. The other side of the stabilizer should be connected to the fuel and temperature gauges. The other side of the oil pressure warning light goes to the switch (sender) in the side of the block next to the oil filter, and when the oil pressure is below some minimum pressure the switch closes and completes the ground for the circuit for that warning light. The other side of the generator warning light should go to the connector marked "WL" on the real voltage regulator (block on the engine side of the firewall with additional connections to the generator, key switch and battery), and when the generator is putting out enough voltage the regulator keeps the current from flowing through that warning lamp, but when the generator is not putting out a minimum amount of voltage then current flows and the lamp lights up. The other sides of the fuel and temperature gauges go on to their respective senders, which supply a variable resistance to ground, with the fuel level sender varying its resistance as the float moves up and down and the temperature sender varying its resistance as the temperature varies up and down.

deffinately check the lil fuse inthe harness aft of the cluster

I think I got it figured out. The rat had ate all the wiring going to the voltage stabilizer ran a new hot wire and everything seams to work except the fuel sender with i discovered the float was no longer floating. Thanks for the help guys.