Thought you might be interested---
I have a 1970 Ford 2000 with collars on the axles. I researched how to remove the collars and bearing to replace the outer seal (and inner seal) because oil has been leaking onto the brake shoes for many years and the tractor will barely stop.
I have an copy of the service manual. It recommends a method to replace the collars with or without a special extraction tool (which I could not locate).
Following the manual"s instructions, I drilled a hole in the collar slightly to the outside edge of the collar at a more than 10 degree angle -- the angle was needed to avoid the drill chuck hitting the axle as the drill entered the collar. I started with a 1/4 inch drill and moved up in steps to 1/2 inch. The drills need to be sharp and I used cutting fluid to assist. The drills bottom on the bearing race without damage to the race. You might pack the outside of the collar with tissue to avoid getting chips into the bearing. I put a second hole in the collar across from the first using the same process. Then, I used a metal chisel to cut into the remaining metal outside and inside of the hole in order to spread the collar -- I did not make it through to the bearing, but noticed that I was able to tap the collar and it would turn on the axle - thought that would be good enough. I have included a picture of the two collars I removed.
I then built a special collar and bearing extractor from steel I had around the farm. See the picture. The base is 1/2 steel with holes for bolting it to the 9 bolts on the bearing housing. The sides were 1/2 x 3 steel (I first tried steel fence posts but they failed). The top is a solid 3x3 piece of steel about 8 1/2 inches long. I tried a piece of 2 x2 hollow tubing but it bent. The overall length allows a 12 ton hydraulic jack to fit between the top of the fixture and the differential end of the axle.
I put the axle in a big vise on its side and stabilized the jack with a work bench and wooden blocks. The end of the axle slides out backwards.
When I jacked the fixture (I was very concerned about being safe), the base plate started to bend. (You might want to use a 3/4 inch plate or carefully place gussets -- you needed to be able to get the nuts on and off). Even with all of the drilling and chiseling, the collar and bearing were not coming off. I then heated the collar in place with a gas welding tip which has a small 3/4 inch flame. I tried to avoid overheating because I wanted to save the bearing and reuse it if possible. When I was ready to give up, the collar moved and I was able to jack the axle through it -- it is tight for several inches.
Once the collar and bearing are loose, everything falls apart nicely. You can tap out the old outer seal which was hard to the touch -- 33 years old, clean everything and replace it. The bearing and race were fine. The inner seal is in the end of the rear axle on the tractor.
Outer seal is 86531244; inner seal is 81823109. The seals are different for axles with locking nuts rather than collars.
I polished with 400 grit sandpaper the bearing race in the area that gets pressed on the axle because the bearing on one axle was really tight.
I used two 2 inch steel pipe couplers with an inside diameter in excess of 2 1/8 inches and one of the old collars and a steel fence driver (long steel tube with a heavy closed end) to reset the bearing after I packed it with grease. The extra pieces were needed because the fence driver wasn"t quite long enough. You can pick your own bearing driver, but 2 inch ID water pipe is too small. I also packed the pieces with paper towels because the driver was releasing grit and dirt on my newly packed bearing. See the third picture. I checked to make sure the bearing had bottomed by tapping it with a drift punch. By the way, the old collar makes a nice installation tool, as well, for seating the outer seal in the bearing housing. It is the right size.
I haven"t put the collar on yet, but plan to heat it with a rosebud tip for my acetylene touch. I understand that you can drop it down the shaft and it will bottom by itself, although I will tap it down to make sure. If this goes well, I plan to squeeze additional grease into the bearing cavity through the gap around the outside of the collar.
When reinstalling the axle, I plan to check the axle bearing free play and will remove one of the shims if I find that the bearing is loose. I have wondered if the outer seal might have been stretched by a floppy bearing but don"t think so. The old seal was round and uniform but hard as a rock. The inner seal and outer seal should keep the grease in the housing,the differential oil out of the housing, and the brake shoes free of oil.
I am having trouble posting the pictures. Was my first attempt to post a message. Will follow up with pictures if they do not appear.
I have a 1970 Ford 2000 with collars on the axles. I researched how to remove the collars and bearing to replace the outer seal (and inner seal) because oil has been leaking onto the brake shoes for many years and the tractor will barely stop.
I have an copy of the service manual. It recommends a method to replace the collars with or without a special extraction tool (which I could not locate).
Following the manual"s instructions, I drilled a hole in the collar slightly to the outside edge of the collar at a more than 10 degree angle -- the angle was needed to avoid the drill chuck hitting the axle as the drill entered the collar. I started with a 1/4 inch drill and moved up in steps to 1/2 inch. The drills need to be sharp and I used cutting fluid to assist. The drills bottom on the bearing race without damage to the race. You might pack the outside of the collar with tissue to avoid getting chips into the bearing. I put a second hole in the collar across from the first using the same process. Then, I used a metal chisel to cut into the remaining metal outside and inside of the hole in order to spread the collar -- I did not make it through to the bearing, but noticed that I was able to tap the collar and it would turn on the axle - thought that would be good enough. I have included a picture of the two collars I removed.
I then built a special collar and bearing extractor from steel I had around the farm. See the picture. The base is 1/2 steel with holes for bolting it to the 9 bolts on the bearing housing. The sides were 1/2 x 3 steel (I first tried steel fence posts but they failed). The top is a solid 3x3 piece of steel about 8 1/2 inches long. I tried a piece of 2 x2 hollow tubing but it bent. The overall length allows a 12 ton hydraulic jack to fit between the top of the fixture and the differential end of the axle.
I put the axle in a big vise on its side and stabilized the jack with a work bench and wooden blocks. The end of the axle slides out backwards.
When I jacked the fixture (I was very concerned about being safe), the base plate started to bend. (You might want to use a 3/4 inch plate or carefully place gussets -- you needed to be able to get the nuts on and off). Even with all of the drilling and chiseling, the collar and bearing were not coming off. I then heated the collar in place with a gas welding tip which has a small 3/4 inch flame. I tried to avoid overheating because I wanted to save the bearing and reuse it if possible. When I was ready to give up, the collar moved and I was able to jack the axle through it -- it is tight for several inches.
Once the collar and bearing are loose, everything falls apart nicely. You can tap out the old outer seal which was hard to the touch -- 33 years old, clean everything and replace it. The bearing and race were fine. The inner seal is in the end of the rear axle on the tractor.
Outer seal is 86531244; inner seal is 81823109. The seals are different for axles with locking nuts rather than collars.
I polished with 400 grit sandpaper the bearing race in the area that gets pressed on the axle because the bearing on one axle was really tight.
I used two 2 inch steel pipe couplers with an inside diameter in excess of 2 1/8 inches and one of the old collars and a steel fence driver (long steel tube with a heavy closed end) to reset the bearing after I packed it with grease. The extra pieces were needed because the fence driver wasn"t quite long enough. You can pick your own bearing driver, but 2 inch ID water pipe is too small. I also packed the pieces with paper towels because the driver was releasing grit and dirt on my newly packed bearing. See the third picture. I checked to make sure the bearing had bottomed by tapping it with a drift punch. By the way, the old collar makes a nice installation tool, as well, for seating the outer seal in the bearing housing. It is the right size.
I haven"t put the collar on yet, but plan to heat it with a rosebud tip for my acetylene touch. I understand that you can drop it down the shaft and it will bottom by itself, although I will tap it down to make sure. If this goes well, I plan to squeeze additional grease into the bearing cavity through the gap around the outside of the collar.
When reinstalling the axle, I plan to check the axle bearing free play and will remove one of the shims if I find that the bearing is loose. I have wondered if the outer seal might have been stretched by a floppy bearing but don"t think so. The old seal was round and uniform but hard as a rock. The inner seal and outer seal should keep the grease in the housing,the differential oil out of the housing, and the brake shoes free of oil.
I am having trouble posting the pictures. Was my first attempt to post a message. Will follow up with pictures if they do not appear.
