Verdict in on my 5000 piston

poorhunter · Sep 18, 2013

Took the piston in at lunch today, and it has a spun bearing. He feels pretty certain that the crank will be bad, and at a minimum need to be ground, but may be no good at all. Without seeing it, can it be that bad? What can cause the bearing to spin?
I didn't really look at the crank last night, but I will today after work. He didn't leave me much hope, so I may have a parts tractor for sale

I simply cannot afford a new crank, or evwn $300 to grind this one.

RodinNS · Sep 18, 2013

I had one spin a main insert and throw the cap when it was a year old. I shut it down immediately. That crank was saved. I would be a lot less optimistic in your case... one because it's a rod... and two... you ran it for some period of time...
300 to grind a crank doesn't sound too bad to me if you can manage that at all. You won't get any kind of decent engine for much less than 1500 and even then might not have much more than you got right now. Sometimes the best way out is to just keep digging...

Rod

Greg_Ky · Sep 18, 2013

If you look back on page nine to your original post that is what I thought had happened, have you taken any main bearing caps off yet? You will probably find that a main is also spun from your discription on Your original post and if that is the case depending if the block can be saved by line boring you would need that as well as at least the one rod reconditioned / replaced and the crank, turned, repaired & turned or replaced. Check the rest of the rod & main bearings first (don't mix up the bearing caps they need to stay on the same rod / main as removed). Post back on what you find. Are you anywhere near central Kentucky by chance? If so I could maybe come take a look.

poorhunter · Sep 18, 2013

So I checked all the other bearings, and they are all ok. The crank is grooved visibly, so now it"s decision time. I guess I can take the crank out and see if it can be repaired. Are there there any things to be aware of as I take it out?

Bern · Sep 18, 2013

If you can catch your fingernail on the crank journal, at a minimum it needs to be ground, and if it has turned a blue color, most machine shops won't touch it.

Didn't you say that the engine had been recently rebuilt? If so, something went haywire for sure. On the upside, you got that pan off in a hurry!

Bern · Sep 18, 2013

Taking the crank out is pretty straightforward. The engine block has to come off the trans obviously.

Before removing the block, I would remove the other 3 pistons. I would then remove the block, flip it upside down, and lay the head deck on a piece of plywood. The clutch, flywheel, front pulley, and front timing cover then need to be removed. The injection pump and rear inner timing plate can stay, along with the cam and lifters. You can then remove the main caps and the crank, assuming the oil pump and balancer are already removed.

poorhunter · Sep 18, 2013

Ha! Real funny...pan off in a hurry!$@@&$!??@4 I'm still sore from picking up the front end and "inching" it forward!

I noticed something else when checking the other bearings...the bad piston needed a 5/8 socket, but the other three needed an 11/16. This obviously means it is a different piston? not matching the rest. The grooves on the crank wouldn't catch my fingernail, but I think it has to be honed. My wife thinks I should keep the tractor and wait to fix it when we have the money, so it's safe from getting thrown into the river for now.

Bern · Sep 18, 2013

I guess what I meant is that you got that loader and front end off in pretty good time, at least for someone who has never done it before.

If you can't catch your fingernail on the crank journal, possibly you could clean it up with some crocus cloth and make it work. The next step might be to invite your machinist friend to come over and take a look. Maybe he could work some magic on it with the crank still in the tractor. It would be worth a try.

JMOR · Sep 18, 2013

(quoted from post at 12:28:22 09/18/13) Took the piston in at lunch today, and it has a spun bearing. He feels pretty certain that the crank will be bad, and at a minimum need to be ground, but may be no good at all. Without seeing it, can it be that bad? What can cause the bearing to spin?
I didn't really look at the crank last night, but I will today after work. He didn't leave me much hope, so I may have a parts tractor for sale I simply cannot afford a new crank, or evwn $300 to grind this one.

ight as well hang in there & wait if you really have use for a tractor, as you won't find a replacement for $300.

Verdict in on my 5000 piston

poorhunter

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RodinNS

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Greg_Ky

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poorhunter

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Bern

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Bern

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poorhunter

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Bern

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JMOR

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