53 NAA Top link plunger rod broke.

xp784

Member
Thanks for all reply's,

The plunger rod broke not a good day. Page 33 of I&T Shop and Service manual part #7 in FO 72. Can this be removed with out taking the lift arms and shaft out? Posted a pic. Have it off and draining.

Thanks, Bruce
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I'm not sure on the NAA, but on the later 3 cylinder thousand series the rod end is held in place by the rear most seat stud. Looking at the parts diagram on the New Holland parts site, the NAA looks like it might be the same, but I can't be sure. Hopefully someone more familiar with that model will chime in.
 
(quoted from post at 01:10:24 09/15/13) Thanks for all reply's,

The plunger rod broke not a good day. Page 33 of I&T Shop and Service manual part #7 in FO 72. Can this be removed with out taking the lift arms and shaft out? Posted a pic. Have it off and draining.

Thanks, Bruce
a128578.jpg

a128580.jpg

Part from this site http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Ford-Jubilee_Draft-Control-Plunger_8N541B.html
 
Thanks Sean in PA. Looking at it don't think I can but was asking. Thought maybe if I removed the nut in the 2nd pic that I might be able to get it out. The IT manual does not show if it's a pin with a cotter pin.

Also while I have it off and it does Hiccups (Think this is the 1st time off for it) what other parts should I order, going to buy the parts from Yesterdays tractor bought parts from here before and good parts :).
 
Just did a cover repair on the 861. Very similar to what you have.

Can you get the draft rod out without removing the rock shaft? The answer is yes, but it will be easier with everything disconnected and removed (cylinder, control linkage) I had a worn cam pin on mine, so needed to get it all out.manyway. To get it put you need to twist it and have the rocker in a certain position.

You might try taking the bolt off one end and seeing if you can slide the arm off and push the rockshaft and remaining arm out the other side. I was surprised when I was able to get mine out with a little light tapping from a 5 lb hammer. You don't want to get crazy and beat on it or press it out as you can crack the cover. Then you are up s$&? Creek. That would solve your problem and it is easy to do.

Check to see if your cam pin is worn. Good time to R&R that.

I recommend the cover gasket from CNH, as well as the piston o ring and backup ring. They are higher quality than Tisco. Get a cover overhaul kit (probably Tisco...ok) also, the you get all the o rings.

It is an easy job. Now that you have it off.

I would also make some guide pins out of grade 2 bolts (cut heads off) as it makes lining up the gasket way easy whe replacing the cover.

Clean the gasket surface on both the cover and housing and USE NO GOOP/GLUE/SEALER, etc... When replacing the cover. Just the gasket. That is where the guide pins hold the gasket in place and let you slip the cover down. I guess you can use sealer if you want to swear a lot next time... ;)
 
Bruce, Looking at your pics brings back bad memories. I had my NAA lift cover off 4 times. I finally used an electric wench attached to the rafters to lift mine off. Made it much easier for one old guy to do without help.

How did you manage to break the plunger rod?
George
 
Afternoon all thank you for all the help so far and looking for more help.

Just back together and did the adjustment that the NAA HYD pdf as to the 3/16" and 1/4". Works good but if I go above the position with the TOUCH CONTROL in the pic it drags the RPM of the motor down a little. Not a big drop but maybe 10 25 RPM. The top of the arms are 34" Is this ok?

Again thanks for any help.

Bruce
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Afternoon all thank you for all the help so far and looking for more help.

Just back together and did the adjustment that the NAA HYD pdf as to the 3/16" and 1/4". Works good but if I go above the position with the TOUCH CONTROL in the pic it drags the RPM of the motor down a little and don't go up anymore. Not a big drop but maybe 10 25 RPM. The top of the arms are 34" Is this ok?

Again thanks for any help.

Bruce
a131037.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 17:09:10 10/05/13) Afternoon all thank you for all the help so far and looking for more help.

Just back together and did the adjustment that the NAA HYD pdf as to the 3/16" and 1/4". Works good but if I go above the position with the TOUCH CONTROL in the pic it drags the RPM of the motor down a little and don't go up anymore. Not a big drop but maybe 10 25 RPM. The top of the arms are 34" Is this ok?

Again thanks for any help.

Bruce
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ounds like adjustments may be off a bit, as the pin on side of linkage should be pushed back by piston skirt enough to kick control valve out of lift & stop lift & unload pump and that does not sound as though that is happening. Just don't do it or you load pump & heat fluid and probably work the overpressure safety valve.
 
Thank you for the reply JMOR

So what do I adjust? Had to turn out a lot to set the 1/4" as to the position control. Thought about it and read it over as it was real close to the .432 as it was set. Thought it was worn and took it to the 1/4".
 
Afternoon all. And thanks again JMOR for the reply.

Have the top cover back off rechecked the 3/16 and 1/4. 3/16 good. The 1/4 is off .050 or at .300, have .390 from the pin to the back face of cylinder. So would that cause the problem with the arms topping out before all the way up with the lever? Sending pics so you can see if anything else is wrong.

Thanks Bruce
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Adjusted it to 1/4 and now down to .330 from back of cylinder to pin. So if no one can find any problems with the way it's put together I'll try it again.
Thanks for any reply's
Bruce
 
(quoted from post at 17:52:59 10/08/13) Adjusted it to 1/4 and now down to .330 from back of cylinder to pin. So if no one can find any problems with the way it's put together I'll try it again.
Thanks for any reply's
Bruce
will try to do look/think this evening, but right now I don't recall any measurements referenced to 'pin'.
 
Thanks for the reply JMOR

Don't think there is as I have not found that inf. anywhere might help others setting it? But did gain .060 and figure it will hit it later and lever will be at top right? And if you don't see anything wrong with the way I put it back together I'll try it. Didn't change piston (original single ring as it and bore were good but new o ring and back washer). As to the start of my problems it broke the plunger rod.

Thank you again for your inf and time.
Bruce
 
Sounds & looks like in right direction, but I just don't know if 0.056 or0.060 is going to make the difference you are looking for. I know that the total travel of the valve is small (~ 1/2 inch), so maybe the 0.050 will make the difference. Someday maybe I'll play with one enough to determine exactly where the valve/spool should be for lift, hold, and drop & how much tolerance there is for each position. What you need is for that piston skirt to hit the pin & push it rearward enough to pull the spool out enough to stop lift. But I don't know what "out enough" amounts to. Keep me posted.
 
Afternoon and thanks again for the reply JMOR,

Looked at pin to piston contact. With the lifting arms at 8 7/8" to 5/8" all thread from the base of top cover, piston contacts pin at .390 out.

The pin contact is only about .100. Should this be more? Is something bent or should I push the pin out more?

Just want to get right before I put it back on.

Thanks for any reply.
Bruce
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(quoted from post at 15:31:36 10/09/13) Afternoon and thanks again for the reply JMOR,

Looked at pin to piston contact. With the lifting arms at 8 7/8" to 5/8" all thread from the base of top cover, piston contacts pin at .390 out.

The pin contact is only about .100. Should this be more? Is something bent or should I push the pin out more?

Just want to get right before I put it back on.

Thanks for any reply.
Bruce
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"The pin contact is only about .100. Should this be more? Is something bent or should I push the pin out more? "
All that is necessary is that pin overlap edge of cylinder enough that piston skirt can catch it & push it back.
If you have compressed air available & want to 'play', you can observe much of the operation while sitting on bench.
 
Just to keep you updated.

Put it back together and with no load on seems fine and not blowing any fluid looking in the fill plug. Can see it hitting the pin.

But with the load on is doing about the same thing as before dropping rpm. Looking in the fill plug and when I go any higher with the lever it's starts blowing fluid out but not sure from where? Not from around the piston.

Again thanks for any help.
Bruce
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(quoted from post at 19:16:51 10/09/13) Just to keep you updated.

Put it back together and with no load on seems fine and not blowing any fluid looking in the fill plug. Can see it hitting the pin.

But with the load on is doing about the same thing as before dropping rpm. Looking in the fill plug and when I go any higher with the lever it's starts blowing fluid out but not sure from where? Not from around the piston.

Again thanks for any help.
Bruce
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eed to figure out where it is coming from.
 
Need to figure out where it is coming from.

Afternoon JMOR and is coming from SYSTEM RELIEF VALVE.

Only when I go above were the lever is in the pick and the arms are all ready at full travel does it spit fluid out the relief valve.
So I'm thinking that I need to change the adjustment out further more like the .432 and this will change were the lever position will be.
Also is there any difference on the pistons, as to the old naa to the new as to the depth of the dog bone in the back of the piston? I'm thinking there is so going to take the cover off and will check back on your thoughts.

JMOR would like to call me or I you

Again thanks for any input.
Bruce
 
(quoted from post at 15:20:41 10/10/13) Need to figure out where it is coming from.

Afternoon JMOR and is coming from SYSTEM RELIEF VALVE.

Only when I go above were the lever is in the pick and the arms are all ready at full travel does it spit fluid out the relief valve.
So I'm thinking that I need to change the adjustment out further more like the .432 and this will change were the lever position will be.
Also is there any difference on the pistons, as to the old naa to the new as to the depth of the dog bone in the back of the piston? I'm thinking there is so going to take the cover off and will check back on your thoughts.

JMOR would like to call me or I you

Again thanks for any input.
Bruce
heck your e-mail
 
Just uploading pics as to what I'm thinking is wrong.

As to the 1st pic is were the lever is and have 1/4" and not opening the relief valve.

But If I move lever up 1/4" goes away and be leave reason that it's opening that system relief valve.
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(quoted from post at 17:29:43 10/10/13) Just uploading pics as to what I'm thinking is wrong.

As to the 1st pic is were the lever is and have 1/4" and not opening the relief valve.

But If I move lever up 1/4" goes away and be leave reason that it's opening that system relief valve.
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I have no argument with what you say, however, in actual operation, the piston would be extended & should push the pin/linkage rearward & re-establish the 1/4 inch or greater.

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JMOR

Called the # you gave me 3 times and get a message and left my #? First name that will come up on your caller ID is Audrey.

Bruce
 

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