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Ford Tractors Discussion Forum
Show Parts for Model:

Re: Modifying your lower lift arms

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3000OH

09-01-2013 20:00:29
75.93.176.155



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If'n those 4000 arms are pricey, might consider the Pat's system instead. I'm sold on 'em - have put them on 3 different tractors. Dang quick to use; I've dropped an implement and put another on in <3 min, and that included backing up to drop the 1st and then driving over to the 2nd.

I've heard they'll sell the unit without the pin section (where the pin goes thru the lift arm) so that it can be welded right to a cut-off lift arm. At one time, they said they'd even do the welding if you send them your arms. Haven't welded ours because the stocker unit adds a couple of inches that I want to help keep the bush hog a bit farther away from the rear tires.

I don't have any $s invested in the company, nobody I know works there, etc.

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Ultradog MN

09-02-2013 03:30:41
174.20.243.37



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 Re: Modifying your lower lift arms in reply to 3000OH, 09-01-2013 20:00:29  
That looks interesting.
How do they hook on to your existing lift arms?



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NoNewParts

09-02-2013 04:37:20
67.240.141.151



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 Re: Modifying your lower lift arms in reply to Ultradog MN, 09-02-2013 03:30:41  
Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see

another vote for pat's

a little pricey, but they are better than the cheaper knock-offs

pin thru them hooks to the lift arm ball, each has 4 set screws to

get the side angle right, and the u-bolt pictured has different spacers to set the vertical angle.

do it once when installing, and you're done.

They do move the lift point back about 2", and you might need a longer toplink for some implements.

one mod I made to them, was flipping the u-bolt UP, with a bracket, so I could turn my blade, rake, 360

I put a set on a Kubota that has those silly turnbuckles that have to be moved every time to spread the arms,

and on a Farmall when I modified the Fast-Hitch to accept 3-point stuff

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3000OH

09-02-2013 07:40:04
75.93.176.155



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 Re: Modifying your lower lift arms in reply to NoNewParts, 09-02-2013 04:37:20  
NNP has it right about the connection - pin thru the arms. He's also on the mark about setting the angles, both with respect to the centerline of the tractor and tilt. When we got our first unit, I expected the adjusting nuts might vibrate loose but haven't seen anything in 5 yrs, including after heavy beating from a back blade clearing snow from a rocky gravel lane filled with #2's (did use Loctite).

Also, Pat's has extra-long pins, already cross-drilled, so that the stabilizer bars can fit on the outside of the hitches. If you do use the bars (I built some), then make one side adjustable, maybe like with a stubby cat 0 or cat 1 top link welded in. Then, you can match up to any implement width just by adjusting the stab link. As you know, fixed-length stab bars have the downside that implements aren't all the same width (same problem for fixed-width quick hitches like the u-shaped upside-down ones). It's great not having the 6' bush hog beating everything up swinging side to side. With stab bars, you don't need the optional spreader bar from Pat's (or just use a 2x4 like one guy did).

BTW, Northern Tool also carries Pat's, in case you're near one of their stores. Price might be a bit better. Reviews there are great (no, I'm not one of 'em - bought ours directly from Pat's). Link is below, for a Cat 1. The Northern stock # for the Cat 2 hitch is 12611-1451.

Since you've got a 4000 with more grunt than our 3000, if you have Cat 2 implements, then would suggest a Cat 2 unit, then use bushings on any Cat 1 implements.

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3000OH

09-02-2013 09:48:17
75.93.176.155



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 Re: Modifying your lower lift arms in reply to 3000OH, 09-02-2013 07:40:04  
Found that they have a video, shows putting the hitch on & using it. I normally remove the linch pins and washers when I hitch up - keeps from bending washers & pins if I'm off center by a little bit. Have to hop off anyway to put on the top link, takes just a sec to put on the washers & pins. Hooking up really is as easy as the video shows.

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