ford 8210 hydraulics

Is there any way to bypass the electric over hydraulic cluster valve under the cab or to make it a manual system? Ford dealer says have to replace both valve and electronic lift controlls in cab. have done so several times and don't want to continue to replace.[/b]

I would think if you dropped a 7710's lift cover on there it would work... but I'm not positive about it. The 8210 was the test bed for EDC and as such it was really just a modified mechanical system to begin with. The thing is... you need to get the load sensing valves and all of the internal hitch controls from the underside of the lift cover that would have been eliminated on an EDC model like you have.
I'd think it a lot more misery to change it back to a mechanical system than it would be to repair this one correctly. Why do the controls continue to be replaced? Sounds like someone throwing parts at bad grounds and poor connections...

Rod

Agree with Rod. If the major parts have already been replaced "several times", I think it's pretty safe to say that the problem lies elsewhere.

If I were you, I would ditch your current dealer and find someone who knows what they're doing. As Rod said, it could be as simple as a bad ground.

i have used 3 different dealers all in different cities. the general concensus from all is to get rid of this tractor for another model. everything else on this tractor is in great shape and works great. lightning fried computer "brain" about 8 years ago and replaced all computer "brains" at that point. the rear lift never works more than a year or two at a time. i have replaced electric solenoid valve 3 times since then. am tired of that expense for the same thing.

I'd have to wonder why the valve is failing? Is it the force motor that's failing? There has to be an underlying inherent reason. It's just a machine... something is wrong. If the motor is crapping out I'd wonder about the electrical supply to it. The wiring may not be robust enough and the motor is drawing more current than it should and frying it's windings. You could also have a problem with the bulkhead power supply under the cab as those things were well known for that... or a bad ignition load relay... or an alternator that's got problems and isn't making steady voltage. I had a couple of solenoids take a dump on my 7710 a few years ago, blowing lights, etc. It seemed to stop when I changed the alt...
There's something funny going on. Somebody just needs to find out what... I'm sure you could install the top link sensing lift cover and all of it's ancillaries but that will also cost you a good dime if you can find one and rebuild it... and it's not the hottest system in the world either... particularly the 7710's variety with the load monitor. That part you would also need to leave disconnected because you don't have the ball ramp in the lower driveline.

I'm really not familiar with the EDC on that tractor... but if I was seeing motor/electrical failures of a $2K valve I'd probably not waste too much time in hooking a heavy relay power supply close to the motor/valve and use the control system to control the cube relay.

Rod

Of course the dealers are going to tell you to replace the tractor - they have an interest in selling new(er) machines. The fact that ALL the dealers are saying this tells me that none of them have an interest in getting to the bottom of the problem.

You need to find someone with the patience to look at the history of the thing, along with maybe doing an autopsy on the failed solenoids to see what's really causing the problem. I know that's easy for me to say from where I sit, but at this time, it's the only thing I can suggest. If you lived close by, I'd be more than happy to look at it for you as I love to troubleshoot that kind of stuff.

(quoted from post at 11:54:33 07/28/13) Of course the dealers are going to tell you to replace the tractor - they have an interest in selling new(er) machines. The fact that ALL the dealers are saying this tells me that none of them have an interest in getting to the bottom of the problem.

You need to find someone with the patience to look at the history of the thing, along with maybe doing an autopsy on the failed solenoids to see what's really causing the problem. I know that's easy for me to say from where I sit, but at this time, it's the only thing I can suggest. If you lived close by, I'd be more than happy to look at it for you as I love to troubleshoot that kind of stuff.

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Thanks guys.