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carburator seat

D

dyoungen

Member
I have a 1954(?) NAA or 600 the best I can tell. I decided to rebuild the carburator since I've been having trouble starting it even after changing the points, condenser, rotor and cap. When I removed the air tube going to the air filter gas poured out and it looks like the floats stuck. I bought the kit and started to do the rebuild but I'm not able to remove the seat. I've literally done everything including drilling out the seat. I don't want to go any bigger or I"m afraid I'll mess up the threads. I'm not into the threads but to close for comfort. I even tried an easy-out without luck. I went to town this morning but can't find a tap the right size. I'm getting different opionions on the type and size of the threads. Can anybody tell me what the threads are? THANKS in advance:) :?
 
dyoungen........according to my hand written notes in my N-Ford Master Parts Catalog (MPC) the float seat is 3/8-27.

You ain't gonna believe this but the eaziest way to remove yer BRASS float seat is to BOIL yer castiron carb part in HOT WATER. Castiron and brass have different coefficients of expansion. You should then be able to pick yer brass threads outta the HOT castiron. Simple, eh? .......HTH, Dell

BTW.......eazyouts arn't
 
Thanks Dell. I have a crock pot I use for things just like this and I"ll go do the boiling right now. By the way, your right, easy-outs aren't. I have had some luck but they aren't the only way to remove threaded parts. If you get to close to the threads your in more trouble than you started with. THANKS AGAIN!!!
 
dyoungen, I would try moderate heat as Dell suggested.
Sometimes a left handed drill bit works too, but if you're already
too close for comfort that may be a suggestion for next time.
NAA or 600 - If you have a big 2 inch nut on the end of the rear
axles holding the hub on, it would not be a hundred series axle.
 
Only type of easy outs I have found to be worth using cost big $$$. I have a set that when I got them over 10 years ago cost me $75 and 95% of the time they work and in all this time I have only broken one and it was a a real small one.
 
Measure the threads on the new seat.Too late now but I have a screwdriver ground to fit the seat exactly.NO TAPER.Most seats should be left alone.Dirt if the # 1 cause of flooding.The soft tip needles stick shut often.YOU should have asked questions BEFORE drilling or using an easy out.Very expensive carberator to replace.
 
Your right 36 coupe but I've built quite a few carbs thru the years and saw it as just another stuburn seat. I took it to a carburator repair shop this morning and I"ve delt with them in the past before so I trust them to get the threads out. I checked with a shop that could have ordered a tap but it would have cost over $20.00 so I went with the carb shop. If I was in the repair buisiness I woiuld have bought the tap but beings it was going to be a one time repair, I"ll go with a shop.
 

Ok, I got the top of the carburator back and all they did was drill right upto the threads. All I had to do was clean out the brass from the threads which I did. Carburator is back together and on the tractor. Now I'm going to time her and after looking at "youtube" that seems simple enough. I pulled the inspection cover back so I can see the timing marks on the fly wheel. Where is the timing mark on the cover that covers the fly wheel? I've cleaned the old oil and other junk from around the hole so I have a clear shot looking at the fly wheel but don't see anything next to the hole.
 

Ok, I get her to fire off but she sounds like one of the old hit and miss engines with a good bit of smoke out the exhaust. Which screws the idle screw and which screw is the high speed screw. So you know the history, I started out with no fire at the plugs. Changed the plugs, cap and rotor and points and coil. Still nothing. took the distributor apart and put it back together. Now i had fire. then went thru the carburator. Changed the seat and the rest of the parts that were in the kit. She's not leaking gas on the ground anymore. When it does start, ir runs real erratically, hit and miss style. What am I missing? Carburator still?
 
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