Re: 3400 steering valve spring/plungers?

Ultradog MN

Well-known Member
Location
Twin Cities
[i:654c4848f0]"I found what seems to be the horn plungers were replaced by the regular plunger and spring in all the parts manuals."[/i:654c4848f0]

This is not correct. You must have the horn type plungers.
Messicks shows it is still available for about $42.

[i:654c4848f0]"Also I noticed the regular plungers seem to have a beveled edge and square edge" [/i:654c4848f0]

All the plungers I have seen both ends were beveled. I doubt it makes any difference though.

100_12901_zps5b6ef23d.jpg
 
I just called my Local NH Dealer - Timmer Imp in Aitkin MN.
Parts man there confirmed what you and others state that the horned plunger (C6NN3N729A) has been replaced by the standard plunger(LA33579B)
I told him the plain plungers would Not work.
He is going to contact NH and see what he can find out.
I sent him the photo below which he will forward to NH.
I guess it's a matter of hoping for the best but not expecting much.

100_12911_zps01da394e.jpg
 

Thank you and please keep us posted. I guess my next question is what purpose do the "horns" serve can the plunger still function if 2 of the "horns" are broken? When i get home I will take photos and post them. I hope I am explaining well.
 
Pictures of broken "horned" plunger. Does anyone know where I can find a good write up explaining how this steering valve functions. How the plungers, springs, ball are used inside the valve. Thanks for all the help.

mvphoto19273.jpg


mvphoto19274.jpg
 
I'm pretty sure if you get the big Ford (NH)manual - about $175 for the three sections it will explain how that PS block works with colored diagrams of oil flow, etc.
Over the years I've bid on about a dozen of them on Ebay but always got out bid so finally gave up.
I think you can also buy one on CD for not much $ but I never have - just like paper copies better.
 
Because like Vidkun Quisling, Benedict
Arnold and others who have let their
people down, Photobucket no longer allows
hotlinking.
Here is the photo you are wanting.
a169977.jpg
 
No spring in the hole with the balls. Only
the other holes have springs.
Check the seal surfaces on the shaft to
insure it is not badly worn, pitted or
otherwise damaged. If grooved, etc install a
speedi sleeve to repair it.
 
ok thanks for the help sir can you tell me where I get the sleeve? Also is there a relief valve some place in the sterling system that might be stuck, to over ride the over steer so it will not build up pressure? And do you know where I can get a view of just how all the parts go back into the block for it was apart before me for sure. If the springs and plungers are not in the right place would that do this? Thanks again for all the help sir
 
I took calipers and measured the seal surface and it is 1.247 so I can see no groves or damage there also. Is that good enough to hold a seal ? Should I just go ahead and put a sleeve over it anyway to be on safe side for all the tearing apart that has to be done to get it apart again? Also I have found in past that some seals go in differently then we would think as far as what side is up. Can you tell me what side is up with writhing on it? Again thanks for all your help it has been a life saver and yes all plungers were where they were to be. Like I said this has been apart before and I now know why it went to auction. LOL
 
The spring side of the seal always goes to
the oil.
So in that application the lower seal goes
spring up and upper seal goes spring down.
Not hard to install them backwards if you
don't pay close attention.
 
PS
If you want more help with this - which I'm
happy to give- start a NEW thread.
It was by chance that even saw your posts so
likely won't see further ones to reply.
 

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