Foamy trans oil in NAA

petertay

Member
Just purchased a running NAA. Oil on trans dipstick is milky, so I looked in the filler hole. Plenty of oil, but it looks like a milkshake.

Is this a problem? Thanks.
 
water plus oil plus turning gears = emulsion.

dump in a lil atf, diesel and a bottle of drug store rubbing alcohol, run around the yard to mix well.. warmer the better.. then drain.. refill with gear oil or utf..
 
Thanks, guys. I'll flush it out.
TractorData, under Capacity, says Hydraulic system - 2 Gal.
It does not list a capacity for the transmission, so I assume tranny and hydraulic are the same thing?
Do I fill it all with ATF? What kind?
Thanks again.
 
The front end loader has a Vickers vane pump on the front PTO, but the pump is shot. Can I get enough hydraulic pressure from the tranny (as my old 801 did), or should I find a new pump?
Phots attached if that helps.
Peter
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pressure will be fine... volume will be limited to about 2.9gpm max though. you can tie the 3pt arms down and come out of that plug on e na ablank cover to feed an OC valve, and then return to the tank via the fill cap.

slow but works.
 
you assume wrong.

diffy, trnas and hyds are seperate sump.

hyds nominal capacity is 2g. for your milky oil.. i'd dump in a quart of kero or diesel and a pint of alcohol.. a half quart of atf.. run then drain. if it was real frothy.. i'd then dump in a gallon of diesel, the other hlf quart of atf..a nd another pint of rubbing alcohol... then agitate and drain..
 
You are so helpful to a guy who doesn't know much about the NAA.

Okay, three places for oil. Differential I topped off with 80 gear oil.
Hydraulic AND tranny are milky. wierd. I'll flush both as you suggest.

You mention ATF, are they all the same? I thought there was Type F and the other kind. Is it worth buying Hy-Tran for this old gal that will only mow thistles and plow snow?
Thanks.
 
SoundGuy, I found where you answered my fluid questions on another forum as you discussed the various fluids for the various purposes. Thanks.

But I do have a further question about the FEL return line. You said,
"you can tie the 3pt arms down and come out of that plug on e naa blank cover to feed an OC valve, and then return to the tank via the fill cap."

Do you mean tap a hole in the wide cap where fluid is added? Sounds inconvenient when fluid is being added, or did I misunderstand?
Thanks
 
I would replace the Vickers, even if you use a different brand.
The stinger pumps work the loader way faster and it doesn't tie up your
3pt hitch, which you will probably want to use to hold a counter weight for the loader.
 
Thanks, Royce. I appreciate the advice from someone with
experience. It would have been very dissappointing to hook up the
loader and then find it didn't work as expected. --Peter
 

It is not weird that your oil is milky. It is very common. In fact with the weather we have been having I expect that the oil in everything I own is milky. My 9000 had about two gallons on the floor under it the other day. So don't be discouraged when it gets milky again. Either drain it and heat it up to drive the water out or work it hard enough to get the temp up to where the water will evaporate.
 
(quoted from post at 23:23:55 07/08/13)
It is not weird that your oil is milky. It is very common. In fact with the weather we have been having I expect that the oil in everything I own is milky. My 9000 had about two gallons on the floor under it the other day. So don't be discouraged when it gets milky again. Either drain it and heat it up to drive the water out or work it hard enough to get the temp up to where the water will evaporate.

same here, hot, cold, rain every day
any tractor sitting more than a day or two gets
cracking the drain plugs to let the water out added
to the pre-start checks

weather conditions here do make it easy to see exactly how much fluid is in all my rears.
sweat line is very clear, every time I walk in the sheds
 
for flushing and cleaning.. i'd use type F atf or dex/mer 3 not the newer atfs.

and just to be clear.. atf and utf are not the same.

80w90 gear oil is fine for naa diffy and tranny. hyds needs utf. you could use utf in all 3 sumps.. or the front 2 if you already have gear oil in the diffy.
 
return lines are low pressure.

most guys that are faking out hyds tieing the 3pt down just simply take a 90' elbow fitting with pipe thread on one side and a hose barb on the other. they drill the hyd fill cap and tap for pipe threads.. screw the cap on, and then screw the fititng in till it lines up good for the return line, then just push the return line onto the barb. to add fluid.. all ya gott do is slip hose off and remove cap.

another option is to plumb that fitting into the cover where the hyds dipstick is... etc
 

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