6v -12v Ford 600 conversion

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I have copied and read the article "step by step 12-volt conversion" as it appears on this web site. Although my tractor is not a Farmall--most of the guidance is approprite for my Ford 600. I have replaced the 6v coil for a 12v coil so a ballast resistor is not required. However my problem (which is not mentioned at all in the article)is that the Ford 600 is made with a 6v starter solenoid. I have replaced mine with a 12 v solonoid. However there is absolutely no guidance as to how the solonoid is wired into the system. As this is the only item holding up my conversion i would appreciate some instruction as to where the wires to and from the solonoid should go. Thank you.
 
Take the 12 volt soliniod back to the store. #1 its not made for the way fords start and #2 you don't need it. Your 6 volt soliniod will work just fine, shoot believe it or not there is no such thing as a 12 volt or 6 volt soliniod. Then just put your old on and and all will be well. I've done so many of these 12 volt conversions that I can almost do it in my sleep. Doing one today on a D-17 allis
<ul><li><a href="http://www.geocities.com/trants_mrg/ourhobbyfarm.html">Hobby farm</a></ul>
 
Solenoid is a relay. Low current coil makes electromagnet which pulls high current contacts together. You will have two big posts on it, one goes to starter, other goes to battery, they may be marked, don't reverse them if they are. Now if you energize electromagnet, the starter spins. If you have one small post, it will need switched ground from your starter switch, as the other side of the internal coil will be internally connected to the battery post, thus the posts will be marked. If you have two small posts, jumper one small post to the big post connected to the battery (unmarked in this case), and provide the switched ground to the other post via your starter switch. Make sure your starter switch is correctly interlocked so that you can't engage it unless your tractor is in neutral, so that you don't kill yourself.
 
57b764ee.jpg

Try this.
 
Well I do not agree with some others so I will give you my point of view................

When converting a 600/800 Ford to 12v you should update the starter relay to the newer 4 post relay off the 601/801. The reason is the 600/800 will crank without the key on where as the newer relay will not allow this.

Now lets look at differant relays..............

If you bought your new relay at the car parts store you most likely have the wrong relay. It is wired like this........

2000%20starter%20relay.jpg


and older Ford tractors do not work that way. The relay that I recomend you use which came stock on the 801 Diesel is made for 12v's and is wired like this..........

601%20starter%20relay.jpg


Your orginal relay on your 600 was wired like this......

600%20starter%20relay.jpg


Now if you want to read a 12v conversion written for the Ford 600 to 801 then read <a href="http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=ford&th=344550">this</a>.

You can also look at all my wiring diagrams <a href="http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y137/johnLA/?sc=1&multi=1&addtype=local&media=image">here</a> but the ones you will most likely need have already been linked to by Glen.



 
Hi John in la;

Hope you don't mind me passing along your diagrams. They have been helpful to me and I am sure to others as well. I appreciate your having made them available. Take care.

Glen
 
What's the big deal if the engine cranks over without the ignition being on.. it's had been that way since 1939 9n??

Soundguy
 
Yes it has been that way since 1939 but I feel a small update is safer. We also used lead paint and thought smoking would not kill you in 1939.

All it takes is a couple of kids playing in a barn and a finger may come up missing with the old relay.

Just my oponion. yours may differ.
 
Glen; I am glad the diagrams have helped you and others. That is why I took the time to draw them.

I do not mind you linking to anything I have contributed to this forum as long as you do not try to insinuate or take credit for the work. This is why I try to include a thanks for any pictures or comments I link to.

I do not in any way feel you was trying to take credit for the work so link away.
 
If you go with the 4 post relay be sure to get the one for a Ford tractor. It looks exactly like the one for a Ford car but the one for a car is grounded when you bolt it to the frame and the starter will engage as soon as you turn the key "ON". The one for a tractor is not grounded until you push the starter button on the transmission. Most auto parts salesmen are not aware of this difference.
 
Why stop there with the 'slight update'. If you are on a safety 'witch-hunt' there are dozens of things on that tractor that should be updated.. including seat upgrade and seatbelt and rops addition...

When it comes to electrical.. nothing inhibits diagnostics down the road more than non standard wireing. I sugest the owner document the non standard wireing on a loseleaf page and attach it in the back of the manual via stapler.. so when he tries to troubleshoot it 15 ys downt he road.. or sells it and the next owner tries to trouble shoot it.. at least they will have a clue.

Otherwise it will end up like the dozen other posts here a day where people ask why something isn't working and then reveal they have non standard wireing... thus which usually gets them a recomendation to go back to standard parts and wireing if they are not electrically inclined or can't follow a schematic... the info attached inthe manual will help prevent those problems down the road..

Soundguy
 
Thank you all for your prompt replies. Unfortunately the suggestion by "old" is not an option.The old solenoid was shooting sparks off all over the place and had to be whacked to engage--so it is toast. It was reccommended to me to go to an auto parts store and buy a solenoid for a 70's ford pickup. Which is what i did. So it is the 4 post type i assume that John in la refers to. I note his wonderful diagram (should make it very easy). Because i have it already i am tempted to go the slightly modified route that GlenIdaho suggests. If there is a safety (given that farm tractors are and were never very safety conscious anyway)( i live in a farming community and some of the things i routinely wittness would often scare you). Unless there is a real disadvantage in which case i would take the Ford P/U solenoid back to Autozone and then go to a local Ford tractor dealer and buy the one for the deisel 801 as suggested though i am sure parts from the tractor dealer will be much more expensive than from the auto supply people.By the way the instructions with the 4 poster from the auto place does make refference to an alternative wiring if the old solenoid was a 3 post--which my old 6v was.basically only using one of the 2 small posts (don't have it in front of me so cannot remeber if it was the "i" or the "s" post. But that is how i currently have it wired and is what caused me to ask my question as i wanted to be sure it was the right way--which it now appears it isn't.
Thank's again all.
 
GlenIdaho, I want to thank you for the directions that you have provided on my 6-12 volt ford 600 conversion. I would like you to help me solve some problems i still have re the diagram provided. 1st to eliminate most of the issues. I do have the GM alternator with the built in voltage regulator installed. I have a Ford 600 (not a 601 or an 801) as the diagram refers to. I do not have a fuel guage nor dash instruement lights. Most importantly (causing my confusion) i do not have the "terminal block" or whatever you might describe it that is shown on the diagram directly above and slightly to the right of the ignition key. Thus the 7 wires that are attatched to it are for the most part a mystery to me as to what they are--where they came from --where they go to.However i have been able to determine 2 of them due to the fact that they remain part of the original wiring from the mfgr. the right hand terminal on the ignition key in the picture has a wire that ran from that terminal to the battery side terminal on the solenoid(relay). The other known wire is the one from the 12v coil(used to be 6v) goes to the left hand terminal on the ignition key.As to what to do with the other wires that are shown going to or from the terminal block i am uncertain where they go.By the way my ignition key has 3 positions.Vertical is off, front and rear rotation are on. Probably one on is additionally for on with lights but i don't know which. The headlights and tail lights are on the tractor but have not ever been connected since i owned the tractor. I will be connecting the lights as part of this refurbishing.I have already changed them all to 12v. So guidance in that area would be appreciated as well. Also i am confused about the "warning light'? I know why it is installed--to activate the voltage regulator in the alternator.However all other lights are single wire (getting their circuit from the negative part of the system)--this being the chassis. However in the diagram this warning light is obviously a 2 wire light. How does that work--where does it get it's power and ground?It obviously gets connected to the 1/F terminal on the alternator. Where does the other end connect to?Also in the diagram there is shown a wire coming off the right hand small front terminal on the solenoid going to the starter switch. According to the instructions that came with my 1973 brand new 12v ford truck solenoid i was not to attatch any wires to the right side terminal all were to be attatched to the left side terminal which is what i have done.All the other wiring that is in the diagram has been done as per the diagram so you need only address the item covered here. Thank you. Fred
 
John, is there really any benefit to conversion to 12V on my 600 Ford? I have been having trouble with points burning up after a 12V jump to get started and was looking into the 12 Volt conversion to remedy this situation. Also my lifting arms float down while brush hogging, is there a rebuild kit for my tractor to remedy this situation?
Thanks, Scott
 

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