Ford 4000 Main and Connecting Rod Bearings

First off thanks SoundGuy for getting me to the right forum.

Might be a real dumb question but here goes. Can I replace main and connecting rod bearings in place? I mean without pulling the head, pistons, and crank?

If so, does anyone have a step by step process after I drain the oil and drop the pan?

Why do I want to change them? I have no oil pressure and some slight noise in the low end. I put a new guage on the tractor but still no oil pressure but when I pull the tubing off the gauge oil squirts out pretty good. Can a pump be bad and still put out oil pressure? The engine don"t smoke, don"t use, or lose oil, just no pressure

Thank you

I cannot speak about replacing the main bearings but I had this same problem on a 3000 one time.

Turned out to be the oil pump had a cracked housing. The oil pan took 1 to many licks from stumps.

I would check the oil pump.

You can pull one of the main caps off, if the bottom half of the bearing is OK put it back on the leave the rest alone for now. Do not try to get the top half out, the wear will be on the bottom half of the main bearings anyway.

Scrappypappy
Yes you can, if you want a quick fix. Place tractor on a level cement floor or solid surface, properly block the rear wheels, then place a jack under the transmission, close to the flywheel housing. You should have to remove the front axle to remove the oil pan. Please make sure you have your tractor completely safe to work on before you go under it! It should not move at all when you push - pull on it in any direction! I usually add hardwood blocking beside the jack and lower the weight until it contacts it.
DO NOT USE CINDER (cement) BLOCKS or bricks! Be safe! If it does not feel safe to you - ask for help! Now you can carefully remove the nose cone etc, unbolt and roll the front bolster and axle forward out of the way. Watch your body parts as it is very heavy, (the bolster will flop to one side) and is awkward to remove. (a good engine hoist works great to hold it steady)
I did a bearing roll on my 201 (engine in place) on my 555 Ford TLB. That should be the same engine you have.
Check your bearing clearances with plasti-gauge. I like to replace the oil pump when I get into an old engine anyway.
Any scoring on the crank that you can feel with your fingernail will mean that the crank must be removed. Also your bearings will be identified with the size, STD, -10 etc for ordering new parts. Identify all parts so they go back where they came from.
Clean up fasteners and use a thread locking compound of your choice to re-install the connecting rod nuts, or purchase new ones as they have been known to loosen off without it. Torque all fasteners to spec - don't guess!
I hope this helps you.
Brian
PS Post back anytime with concerns or questions
Does anyone else want to add anything I forgot?

davida
I believe the top half of the bearing has most of the wear as it takes the pressure from the combustion cycle!
I change both sides every time!
Brian

Thanks Guys,

Anyone else have any advice for this situation?