841 won't start fuel injector?

My 841 ran fine yesterday and now won't start parked in my garage. It will start up for a second then die using starter fluid. I was not sure if that was ok to do so I only tried a few times.

I started investigating the fuel lines. I have diesel going to the Roosa Master fuel injector model DBGVCC-429-5C. There is a port on the injector labeled in and one labeled out. I removed the out bolt and diesel trickels out. If I crank it with the bolt removed it is a steady stream but not shooting out of the hole. I then proceeded to remove the four bolts mounting the distributor tubes to the injector. When I try to crank it no diesel comes out of these holes. Is this normal operation or is the pump not working? I have it throttled all the way up while doing this.

My next question would probably be what is the fuel line coming out of the left side of the injector? It goes to a tee on the engine block then back up to the fuel tank. You can see this tee behind the pump in this other picture. I am sure you guys know what I am talking about without the picture anyways.

I also can only find two spark plugs? As you can see I know nothing about tractors and little about engines. I do however have a state HVACR license if anyone needs AC advice bout all I have to offer. Anyways, this plug in the picture here doesn't look like it is in too good of shape. Maybe this is the problem? How would I know if it is sparking inside the engine? I beleieve these plugs are pretty cheap can I just removed and replace it? Do you drain the oil first?

Oh yeah it also leaks oil from the tranmission after running from that inspection plate. Is that normal? Not a lot just some. Actually it slowly leaks oil from various compartments all over. It was missing the two bolts in the picture on the right hand side so I put some in there. It still leaks some but not as bad.

Did you leave the throttle all the way up in the "engine shutoff" position? If so your metering valve in the pump may be stuck in the closed position. This happened to me once on my 861D and I posted here about the problem. Zane immediately clued me in on the metering valve. On the aft end of the pump there is a cover that is held on with 3 screws. The metering valve is under that cover. I don't have any photos to show where but if you pull that cover off you can grab the metering valve with needle nose pliers and loosen it. I now always pull my throttle half-way down after the engine dies.

Yes I did leave it up let me go try and look at what you are saying and I will report back thank you.

The ports labeled "IN" and "OUT" are on the transfer pump section of the IP.

Your no-start problem MAY be due, as the other posted stated, to a stuck metering valve, which is enclosed by the cover on the side of the pump where the valve mentioned in my picture is located. IF you decide to go that far into it, post back for some tips on getting the cover back on correctly.

Another cause could be a plugged return system. A Roosa pump will NOT inject fuel if the return is blocked, which can happen due to deterioration of the plastic governor damper ring.

<img src = "http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u125/27Grainfield/N%20Ford/FORDiesel_zpsb1f2b5c2.jpg">

Below is a link to a recent post showing photos of a failed governor ring and it"s replacement.Oh, yeah, the "spark plugs" you are seeing are actually glow plugs to pre-heat the air in the intake manifold for cold starting.
JD Sellers treatise on the magic ring

I took the entire cover with the three 5/16 screws off the side of the IP. Whoever designed that should be shot. Anyways I realized gas would pour out so I pinched the line. I've never worked on engines before but I take other things apart a lot so forgive my ignorance when it comes to tractors. Nothing seemed stuck although I messed with the levers up and down with the throttle and by hand for a bit. I put it back together and the engine started (yay!). I did not look for the "coffee grounds" you were mentioning. I did look at the post on it though and had read something similar before I asked this question.

So was this governor indeed stuck and I just didn't realize it? Do I still need to look for the coffee grounds or have I likely blown them clear and won't find them?

I believe I still have some sort of issue as the throttle has to be pushed forward with about 10-12 lbs of pressure to kill the engine. This is causing the bar shown in the picture to fall off. This is a fulcrum between the throttle bar? I doubt my terminology is correct but it is just put on with this little crappy metal clip and holds upside-down just waiting to fall off. Maybe this is to ensure you don't put too much pressure on the IP? Any ideas why this is happening? I checked that adjustment screw on the IP and it is not bottoming out before it gets hard to push.

Thank you for the help so far.

I forgot to say I did all this earlier from TEXAS! post before I read yours. I did not want you to think I am horrible with directions. lol

Can y'all also elaborate on these glow plugs? Does it indeed look bad as the ceramic is missing or is it not that big a deal? There is slack in it.

Any information on the oil leaks around the transmission inspect housing?

Any ideas on why this thing smokes like an old grandma sailor playing bingo? White smoke not black. I saw a guys on youtube that didn't smoke at all and sounded like a 3,500 lb kitten.

Oh wait these glow plugs only heat the air intake for cold weather like you said. I live around the Dallas, Texas area so I probably don't care about these huh?

If your governor ring has disentegrated the engine will NOT maintain a steady RPM- it will constantly be speeding up and slowing down.
Something is out of adjustment if you have to apply pressure to the throttle to get it to shut off. The connecting bar should NOT pop off.
My 861D has been snorting white/gray smoke constantly for about 10 years or more but it still does what I ask of it so I don't worry.
Your oil leak is in the area that could be either the rear seal in the engine or a leaking transmission input shaft seal.

I won't try and bug you too much about these leaks and smoke.

I am more concerned with this bar popping off now. I don't think the governor ring is bad as the tractor RPM remains constant. Is there some sort of adjustment I can make to the throttle or do you think it is a mechanical issue with alignment? The throttle bars do not look bent or out shape by any means.