Ford 530 Square Baler

fatbob50

Member
I posted this question on Implement Alley and am not sure if perhaps I should have posted it here. I need help to remove a pin. Please see photos to come. There is an arm that was broken off on the knotters years ago. They took it off and welded it, then put it back on. Needless to say it never knotted again. I am trying to fix it as I want to square bale a few acres for my horses.

When I went to take the arm off, the 5/16 bolt broke off. The bolt has a flat head on it, and goes all the way through. The bolt will not come out without removing the part in the photo. The pin in the photo is loose and you can turn it by hand. But it will not come out by tapping or beating on it. You have to take this pin out to replace the cam. I do not want to damage anything, so I was looking for advice on how to get it out. If you look at the diagram, you can see that the 5/16 bolt does not even appear on it. Thanks, Bob

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What part are you trying to change?

To get the twine holder out you will need to remove the twine discs first. To do that you need to drive the hidden roll pin from it's drive gear... Then remove the twine discs. Then the holder will probably come off. It looks like there is a shoulder on the pin that prevents it from falling out of the holder.... so if it's loose in the knotter frame it should just come out once the discs are gone.

Rod
 
Rod, Thank you for your reply. In the 3rd photo, you will see a nut attached to a 5/16 bolt. The pen is pointed at the bolt. When I turned the nut, the bolt broke in two. The broken bolt and nut is in photo two, with the spring also there. That bolt is broke and I need to replace it with a new one. If you notice in the first photo, the bolt is not shown. The nut and spring and arm is there, but it does not show you the bolt that the nut goes on. The bolt they do not show is snapped off. To get that bolt off, you have to remove the pin in photo 4. The twine disc in photo 4 will not come out until the stud is removed and the part that attaches to it comes out with it. I need to remove the stud. Thank you for taking the time make suggestions.
 
The part puts tension on the bill hook.The nut should be a locking type nut.Take a close look at the other knotter to see if it has the right nut on it.Take a look at the bearing on the back of the bill hook.If is the old bronze type with flat spots on it you have to replace it.The new bill hooks have a sealed roller bearing on them.It takes a long time to get good at fixing knotters.To late now but it looks like the nut was rusted tight.Penetrating oil and a little heat may have gotten the nut off with out breaking the stud.
 
36 coupe, Thank you for taking the time to answer.
I am not concerned about the bill hook as it has nothing to do with getting that pin out. But it is the newer type with the bearing roller on it. It is not the old type with the bronze. You are right and I did put PB Blaster on it every day for a week. I pulled on it with very little pressure and the bolt twisted in two as you can see in the picture. You are right and I wish the bolt had not broken, it would have made my life so much easier. But the bolt did break.

My original question was and still is that I need to get that broken bolt out. I do appreciate your time in answering this question. Bob
 
Rod, I am trying to replace a broken bolt. It is the one in the picture (my pen is pointed at it). The broken bolt is a 5/16 bolt. It is the one that holds tension on the bill hook. It is the one in the picture with the spring in it and the arm (the roller pressure arm and is number 20 in diagram). I do appreciate your help and thanks for hanging there with me, Bob
 
That bolt will come out with out taking anything else apart did both of mine last summer just take one bolt out and turn knotter up so you can get to it
 
If your main concern is getting the broken bolt out... most likely you will need to drill the bold and use an easy out unless there's enough above the surface to get a vice grip on it and apply some heat to the knotter frame. If you have to drill it... I'd probably remove the whole knotter stack from the baler taking VERY carefull note of where all those spacers go exactly. Then you can get clear access to the knotter frame to drill it. I would not disassemble anything beyond that unless it's absolutely necessary and that includes leaving the twine discs alone.

The sad part of this saga is that you probably didn't need to do any more than adjust the tension on the twine holder spring... and didn't need to touch that arm at all.

Rod
 

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