Ford 850 Starter Issues

spkepler

New User
4Having trouble starting my Ford 850. Starter disengages from flywheel after about a second of cranking - then "whirrs" to a stop. If I turn off the ignition and jump directly from battery terminal to starter post, then starter will crank for as long as I hold the connection.

Battery is at 12.44 volts - no load
11.0 volts keyed ignition start (after disengagement)
9.5 volts jump cranking.

This is a 12V electronic ignition conversion with original 6V starter.
 
Ok try this and tell us what you find. Turn the ignition on and then jump the solenoid and does it do the same thing or does it start?? If it works that way your solenoid maybe going bad. If it does the same thing your timing maybe off and when the engine fires just a tad bit it kicks the starter bendex out
 
I did try doing both the keyed ignition and the direct jump to the starter post. Acts the same as just the keyed ignition - disengagement and no start.
 
Timing maybe off then or the points set wrong or maybe slipped. Points should be set at 0.025. From what you say sounds like it firs and when it does kicks the bendex out
 

I have had this situation and agree with old that it is because it fires just once which disengages the starter. I would be looking for an ignition problem. I did a complete motor rebuild due to multiple problems. Did nothing to starter, now it starts just fine.
 
Thanks for the help. I"ve changed my focus to the ignition. Replaced the plugs today and issue with the starter is now only intermittent - but still doesn"t run.

On a fluke, I had pulled the #4 sparkplug out to check the spark and when I cranked it started and ran on three cylinders. Didn"t run well, but ran.

I replaced the plug -it didn"t run.
I left the plug in disconnected - it didn"t run.
Removed the plug again and it started.

Tried removing the #3 plug and it ran for about 10 seconds much rougher than with the #4 plug out.

Verified that plug wire are in correct order 1-2-4-3.

I"m convinced that I"m getting closer, but have no idea what this all means?????
 
That tractor should have a locking type starter drive.A spring loaded pin drops into a recess.When the engine starts the starter gear remains engaged until centrifigal force pushes the pin out of the recess.Then the drive gear backs up away from the flywheel.If you play with one these starter drives you will get it locked up and have much fun getting the drive gear to back up.The lock pin could be broken, sticking in its bore or the small spring could be broken.This drive was used in Ford cars and trucks plus Mercury and Lincoln.
 

Check inside of the cap for a carbon track. Check for looseness in dist. shaft and for the presence of the little spring clip on the top of the dist/ shaft.
 
(quoted from post at 16:23:24 05/10/13) 850 has a positive drive, it wont kick out like an original 9n drive.

As I stated above my 961 was doing it a lot before the rebuild. I would think that it would be hard on the starter turning all the time that the motor is running, if indeed they didn't kick out, LOL.
 
You are not paying attention.When the engine starts the drive spins out when centrifgal force makes the pin back out of the recess.LOL if you want because you dont know how the drive works.You can hear the pinion gear spin back the instant the engine starts.The 9N drives were borrowed from the 60 hp v8.They would kick out when 1 cylinder fired.In the V8 another cylinder fired sooner so the drive worked ok on the V8.Ford started using the positive drive in the 52 Ford 6 cylinder OHV engine.This engine was made as a 4 cylinder for the NAA tractor both engines use the same EAF prefix on the part numbers.I was working in a Ford garage when the new 57 Fords came out in Oct of 1956.You can buy a drive for your tractor from a Ford,Mercury or Lincoln.dealer.All used the positive drive.
 
If that happens the lock pin is jammed or the lock spring is broken.If you look at the end of the helix you will see the recess the pin drops into.If you play with the starter drive it will lock in the engaged position.You wont be able to get it to retract.
 
Gentlemen, Final Update: I did replace the plugs, wires, rotor & dist cap - which I'm sure helped. But it seems that the main culprit was the timing advance was not working. Once I freed and cleaned the weights so they could move again, it is running like it is supposed to. As always, I really appreciate the feedback from the group and guiding me through the trouble shooting. You guys are great!
 

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