Ford 3000 only runs with choke out.

Hi guys I need some more help. I got a ford 3000 tractor that I baught about 2 hours away from my house and it ran perfectly fine. After transporting the tractor it would only run with the choke out. Replaced the tank (the shutoff valve for the tank with screen) Cleaned the fuel pump out, blew out all of the lines and cleaned and rebuilt the carb. It still is having the same issue however after adjusting the carb a little bit i can get it to run with the choke in however with 5% throttle applied. If I try to turn up the throttle it runs for a few seconds then will die unless I pull out the choke. Any thoughts on what else it might be? Please don't tell me to replace the carb with another one I have seen this tractor work flawlessly and I think the car ride home shook something loose.

Thanks in advance.

IF you are getting good fuel flow to the carb from the pump, then it has to be in the carb.,

those holley are super finicky. and you must have the exact correct kit for them.. you will need the #'s off the tractor and the carb to get the correct kit at the dealer.

could be as simple as a huge vacume leak at a bad gasket.. or a plugged fuel circuit.

Its starving for fuel. I would start with the main needle jet, and fuel lines going to carb. something there is partially plugged maybe jet, sediment bowl or lines or crud in tank maybe bouncing around broke something loose. Float could be miss adjusted as well.

Could also be a vacuum leak somewhere. Spray starter fluid around the outside of the carb and intake manifold. If the engine revs up when you spray a particular spot, then you've found your leak.

Those were my thoughts too. The fuel tank is completely clean no issues there. All the fuel lines have been cleaned and flushed and the carb has been completely rebuilt with the kit that matched the numbers on the carb...Is there anything else that would cause this? I know the carb was completely cleaned out...

Are their any other adjustments that can be made to the Carb other then the screw on the outside?

A couple questions on the Carb. When I pulled the carb apart the accelorator pump was really hard to move and get the assembly out is that normal how easily should it move?

Second Question The float seemed to move up and down just fine should I check for anything out of the ordinary?

Third Question when you say check the main jet what should I be looking out for?

Any other tips would be appreciated I'm thinking of going back into the carb again.

Thanks again.

. . .and, as has been said many times on this forum, after checking that you have a good flow of fuel, you need to make sure you have a good, white spark that'll jump a quarter of an inch. I had just such a problem with an 801 a few years ago, and it turned out to be one of the woven distributor wires that was hanging by just one thread. It wasn't letting enough juice through. Choking relieved it at low rpms but not at high.

Good luck, and please let us know how you make out.

Ray

I will check the plugs and wires. Is their any way to tell the carb is getting enough fuel if I have check the fuel lines to the carb?

Sticking accel pump? You've got a Holley. Search the archives here, lots of info.
-- Ex-Holley owner, happy Zenith driver

pump should move EZ enuff it would fall out on its own... A wire plumbers brush will clean up the bores...

Make sure all the passages are clean run a wire thru'em if need B

Make sure the accelerator check valve checks one way...

The metering body to carb body gasket needs to fit dead nutz perfect you may have to trim it were it butts again the carb body and make sure it stays aligned while nailing the metering body down...

I have repaired 8 are 10 of'em and all have performed great... Its as simple a carb as it gets but unlike most tractor carbs its more like a automotive carb... They can not be beat when they are right...

I have done over a 1000 and maybe 2000 automotive carbs I felt right at home with them... It would not make me mad if I never see another carb again I like EFI... BTW I use TISCO kits and have had good luck with them other than having to trim the metering body gasket to fit a tad...

Stevo --

Check the fuel flow by removing the big screw on the bottom of the carb. Have a pan ready and open the shut off. You should get a thick, steady stream. If not, you have a blockage somewhere upstream of the carb.

As for the wire check: checking the sparkplug wires is always a good thing, but that's not what could be your problem here. I was referring to those skinny little wires that go onto the two nutted connections of your coil. Sometimes you can make a broken or frayed woven wire fail on demand by wiggling them around. The last time I had this happen, the last strand of wire failed when I wiggled, and the wire broke completely off. One of the best ways to test would be to put on temporary jumper wires and try it.

Good luck.

Ray

Thanks guys for all your input. I found a "resident ford guy" in my neighborhood (never met before) and the moment I said Ford 3000 he said Holley Carb. I thought that was kind of eerie...Didn't have to many kind words for the holley carb. Anyway I have some concerns I think the main problem is the carb but I want to double check the fuel lines again. I'm glad you mentioned the nut on the carb (I was hoping to find a way to figure out how much gas was in the carb) so I will check that. The ford guy said to pull the fuel line going from the pump to the carb (or just before sediment bowl I guess...) and see how much gas shoots out. He said it should shoot out 3 to 4 inches... Any thoughts on this? If not the line is plugged. Ideally I would love to replace the line that loops up over the engine and goes into the sediment bowl but it's impossible to find I might have to see about building a replica.

I was thinking about getting the replacement zenith carb and after doing some digging 99% of the websites get the parts numbers wrong for the early 1965 fords. The early carbs are well over $100 more then then the ones for the 1968 and after. I was contemplating upgrading the linkage to something of a later 1968 model but maybe the cost would just equal out. Any thoughts on this. I'm contemplating buying the zenith carb as I need to get the tractor going soon I don't want my wife to think I just bought another huge project instead of a tractor...

As for the electrical I ordered an entire replacement harness for all the electrical on the tractor...There are alot of brittle wires on this thing...

As far as I can tell (we have a '65 3000, too), the differences extend beyond the carbs. It appears that Ford changed governors in '68 and the linkage to the carb also changed, and I suspect that the bellcrank on the carb was part of the linkage change. Also got to tell you that I've never done a side-by-side with ours and a post-'68, so I could be wrong...what I just wrote about governors and linkage came from hours of reading through the CNH parts catalog. If you do the same, you'll find that the part numbers for governors, linkage, and carbs all changed in '68 (these parts aren't all on the same page, so there's lots of flipping back and forth).

A phone call to the company in the link - Farmers Service Inc. - confirmed that the carbs are not the same. He sells the correct carb for the '65-early '68's.

Now, if I'm right that the only difference in the old & new Zeniths is the bellcrank, then I suppose someone could machine a new one based on an existing part. But if you're going to buy a new Zenith anyway, why not just get the right one to start with?
Carb company

Also be sure to check the battery cables, all the way down to the starter. A known place where these crack, esp. at the battery tray & below, then arc over to metal & start fires. Bought some parts off a 3000 diesel that had that happen - torched itself in a barn while just sitting there with engine off.

(quoted from post at 04:37:08 04/19/13) Also be sure to check the battery cables, all the way down to the starter. A known place where these crack, esp. at the battery tray & below, then arc over to metal & start fires. Bought some parts off a 3000 diesel that had that happen - torched itself in a barn while just sitting there with engine off.

Click to expand...

Amend on the bat cables they are a disaster waiting to happen... On another note a Holley is as simple as it gets and can not be beat... Y'all send me all those useless Holley's see'n as they are junk I will take them off your hands ...

Anyone that knows me and read my post I also defend Zeniths as a replacement carb I have had good luck with them other than if you get a leak'er its always a leak'er that's what they make fuel shuts offs for...

Your Farmer link,,, 14.1 fuel ratio,,, carbs don't do a good job at that and if they did it would not be a good carb,,, they work best at 13.1....