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Fuel Line 641

R

Ralph208

Member
Hello All,

I have a fuel line that is about 4 inches to short. This is because a fuel shut off valve was put in at the fuel bowl. So they cut the fuel line attached a short fuel hose then the shut off valve.

I want to get rid of the shut off because it leaks. Can I use a small piece of NAPA brake line and attach that to the fuel hose/line..... the brake line would then screw into the gas bowl assembly.

I think the inside diameter of the fuel line is 1/4 inches (ID) on a 641.

I will be replacing the fuel line in the future so this is just a temp job.

Thanks Ralph
 
Ralph, if it's only [b:b00144ca90]TEMPORARY[/b:b00144ca90] like in a couple weeks or so, I'd say your good. But I just went thru this whole fuel line issue on my 861. I tried patching in a short piece to get me thru, tried bending my own copper, tried bending my own steel brake line and on and on and on...
Everything worked...for awhile. Then same old problem. Leaks, breaks and stalls. After the advise of many of the more experienced guys on here, I bit the bullet and quit screwing around with it. Bought the OEM fuel line from CNH and not 1 problem since. It's around $70 but in my opinion, well worth the investment just to stop the headaches alone. Not to mention the safety factor of that line running over the top of the engine. If you can scrape up the $70, by all means do it!
 
get a couple compression unions and go.

probably cheaper to just buy a new piece of brake line and bend your own from the start vs 2 unions and a spare piece to patch with though.... etc..
 
I take it that you detach the fuel line from the distributor side of the engine then pass the new OEM line through the same side. Does an OEM come with the correct angle? Or do you need a tube bender?
 
You really don't have any room to move a wrench under that gas tank. I don't know how I'll be able to get enough leverage on it.
 
if your hands are xxl.. then may be an issue. I can remove the fuel tap and all from under there.. valve cover in place.. tank in place.. tin on.. etc.

just takes a lil finesse.. and a flare wrench set helps..
 
I was thinking maybe a crowfoot wrench but a Flex Flare might do the trick and it gives me an excuse to get a new tool!

I tried with an open-end wrench but you can't turn it enough without the wrench hitting the top of the motor. There is just no place else to go once the wrench hits the motor.

I just need to break the seal but not enough room with an open-end wrench. I'm sure once I break the seal the nut will be easy to back off by hand.
 
Ralph, it can be done like SG says with everything in place. Just takes a little playing with it till you get the hang of it. I use a flare wrench along with an open end to move it enough to break it loose like you mentioned and then your home free. Same thing when re-assembling, just the opposite way. One thing you might want to do with your fuel shut off is get that darn rivet out and tap it for an 8-32 screw so when you need to replace the "O"ring at some point in time (and you will), you can leave the valve in place. Just use a phillips head 90° driver to r/r the screw.
 
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