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600 Ford Fuel tank valve:(Ideas for a BETTER replacement???

M

mike1972chev

Well-known Member
Well,a couple of years ago when I did my 1955 600 I bought a brand new,"Pricey" tank shut off.(Along with a TON of other new parts! lol)

Well,now this "new" shut off is dripping on my valve cover pretty steady when I have the tank in the ON position.(JUST like the old one I replaced!:(

I think I have had it with this "problematic" style of shut off.

Anybody have ideas,or a supplier of a better tank shut off I could use???? Or,are SOME after market REPLACEMENT shut offs better than others???
 

I've been playing with the idea of using a Harley style fuel petcock, the plus is that it has a filter in it, but im uncertain if it will flow enough gph (?) but to be honest ALL petcocks have the potential to leak, I've had them all leak over time on Harley's, sportbikes, dirt bikes etc etc so no guarantee on any if them
 
I doubt that you will find any other fuel valves copmpatible with the OEM style two bolt tank mount.

You could, of course, change to an aftermarket universal style tank and use the 8N/NAA style fuel valve.

Dean
 

It's not the mounting that's the biggest problem, the majority of fuel petcocks mount with 2 bolts, the main issue would be flow rates (IMO)
 
Here's a link to a fuel valve repair tutorial I posted here a couple of years ago. Once you have modified the valve it only takes a few minutes to replace that leaking o-ring.
Fuel Valve Repair
 
A couple of years ago I had the same issue.It just happened that I had the sheet metal off of my 641 to do some work and I notied that my original tank had some rust underneath and this area was leaking in addition to the leaking original petcock.
After weighing pros and cons, I took the easy (but more $) way of ordering a new tank.
My new tank came from this site, and is actually a NAA tank. The tank has provision for mounting the valve in the 601-series location in the middle of the tank or to the drivers right in the NAA location.(just inside the hood)
I decided to mount the cutofff valve (an NAA type valve that I also got from this site) on the right side in the NAA location, using the supplied plug to seal the mid-tank mounting location.
In order to do this, I had to fabricate a new fuel line. After mocking the fuel line up with a piece of heavy wire, I had both the length and shape of my new line determined. The local parts store supplied an appropriate size and length of steel brake line and a cheap bending tool. (fittings were already on the line)
30 minutes or so of fiddling with the line and we were ready to go.In addition to the strainer bulb on the NAA valve, I also left the strainer next to the carbuerator in place.
Things to watch: be sure you do not let the line contact the valve cover or manifold and also make sure that the line is entirely "downhill" to help prevent vapor lock.Thats really about all there is to it.
I now have a good tank and a reliable fuel line/petcock assembly that does not leak!
Even though this is not the "original" way it was done, to me it is a great improvement. The valve is now easy to reach, can be opened and shut without tools and has leaked not one drop in the past year.
The original 601 fuel valve was NOT one of Ford's "Better Ideas". You will never have anything but aggravation with it. The CNH ones are junk and over $50, the Tractor supply ones are Chinese Junk and not worth whatever they charge for 'em.
What would I have done if my original tank had been good? I dont know because there in my opinion there is really not a good answer. I considered solutions as drastic as welding up the original bung and fitting a threaded pipe to accept a Pingel or HD petcock, but then I would of had to use a rubber line, which I am afraid of in this application because of the location of the carb in relation to the manifold and becaues I really dont feel all that good about welding a gas tank. I know that folks do it but they also hang glide and bungee jump... just sayin'..
Sorry for the long post.
 
(quoted from post at 09:45:37 03/12/13) A couple of years ago I had the same issue.It just happened that I had the sheet metal off of my 641 to do some work and I notied that my original tank had some rust underneath and this area was leaking in addition to the leaking original petcock.
After weighing pros and cons, I took the easy (but more $) way of ordering a new tank.
My new tank came from this site, and is actually a NAA tank. The tank has provision for mounting the valve in the 601-series location in the middle of the tank or to the drivers right in the NAA location.(just inside the hood)
I decided to mount the cutofff valve (an NAA type valve that I also got from this site) on the right side in the NAA location, using the supplied plug to seal the mid-tank mounting location.
In order to do this, I had to fabricate a new fuel line. After mocking the fuel line up with a piece of heavy wire, I had both the length and shape of my new line determined. The local parts store supplied an appropriate size and length of steel brake line and a cheap bending tool. (fittings were already on the line)
30 minutes or so of fiddling with the line and we were ready to go.In addition to the strainer bulb on the NAA valve, I also left the strainer next to the carbuerator in place.
Things to watch: be sure you do not let the line contact the valve cover or manifold and also make sure that the line is entirely "downhill" to help prevent vapor lock.Thats really about all there is to it.
I now have a good tank and a reliable fuel line/petcock assembly that does not leak!
Even though this is not the "original" way it was done, to me it is a great improvement. The valve is now easy to reach, can be opened and shut without tools and has leaked not one drop in the past year.
The original 601 fuel valve was NOT one of Ford's "Better Ideas". You will never have anything but aggravation with it. The CNH ones are junk and over $50, the Tractor supply ones are Chinese Junk and not worth whatever they charge for 'em.
What would I have done if my original tank had been good? I dont know because there in my opinion there is really not a good answer. I considered solutions as drastic as welding up the original bung and fitting a threaded pipe to accept a Pingel or HD petcock, but then I would of had to use a rubber line, which I am afraid of in this application because of the location of the carb in relation to the manifold and becaues I really dont feel all that good about welding a gas tank. I know that folks do it but they also hang glide and bungee jump... just sayin'..
Sorry for the long post.
Click to expand...

Well, Bill it may have been a long post BUT its a great post! You just gave me my next project and I'm planning on following your instructions exactly.
One question though, couldn't you put some braiding on the new line to protect it from contact burns, heat and hard corners etc?
I was playing with the Pingel idea as well, but your post gave me the info I needed
Thanks!
 
(quoted from post at 09:29:24 03/12/13) Here's a link to a fuel valve repair tutorial I posted here a couple of years ago. Once you have modified the valve it only takes a few minutes to replace that leaking o-ring.
Fuel Valve Repair
Click to expand...

Hey Texas! Great post as well! That's a great tip to use
 
I didnt put bracing, etc. My line didnt seem to need it, but I would have used a piece of old heater hose etc clamped around the line if It looked like it would have rubbed on the valve cover.
Some guys use the silver-looking insulation stuff they put on car floors above the muffler or cat and wrap a piece around the line where it passes through the manifold.I thought about it and didnt see the need.IMHO it looked crappy. You wont need it if you are very careful with your bending and routing.
Bill
 
as said. you canmod the valve to make replacingthe oring easy.. or you can mod the tap and make it just a mounting point and put an inline brass valve in the middle of the metal line
 
Bill,

I did pretty much just what you did on my 640 a couple of years ago.

The biggest mistake I made was to take pictures and write up a how-to post for this discussion board...

You'd have thought I slept with my mother, for cryin out loud. All the flames and static - not exactly the responses I had hoped for.

Doesn't matter. The NAA tank with an 8N fuel filter and a new longer fuel line works great. No more burnt fingers, lots of advantages you already mentioned.

Doug in east TN
 

Hey Doug, I'm sorry to hear that's the response you got, I think it's a great idea and I commend you and Bill for taking the time/effort to experiment.
I can tell you that with a loader on my 641 it's darn near impossible to get to my current/orig valve now.
By chance, does your write up still exist?
Thanks
 
Yes I do have a lot of trouble getting pictures... I start out with really good intentions then first thing you know my hands get all greasy and nasty and I dont want to take the time to wash up before I handle the camera (that is also my wife's). Most times I only have start and finish pix because of this.
 
Hello Mike , There is all kinds of mickey mouse repairs but the REAL PROBLEM is the GASOLINE and will always be the problem . If in fact you have a 1972 Chevy with a carb on it you already know what I mean . The new fuel eats plastic , rubber corrodes metals that it never did before . The valve is not problematic the fuel has caused it to be , modify the valve as Alan in Texas has said so that you can replace the o-ring when it goes bad and leave the rest of it alone . I have been modifying the valves for years just so that I did not have to replace them ever and even made a jig for my Bridgeport to do a dozen at a time . Thanks Tony
 
Thanks everyone.

Alan and Tony,I will be going the "rebuild it" route. I bet I can take the OLD one I pulled out and make it new again also?


I am wondering if a Viton O ring would be a BETTER choice to use????? (Works on my race stuff. )
 
Hello Mike , Yes as Glen said use the Viton o ring I have been using them for years now with very good luck also . Yes you should be able to reuse the your old original one with out a problem , I do not buy any new ones at all I just keep swapping them out and rebuilding them , once they are in it only takes a minute to change the o ring in the tractor . Thanks Tony
 
OK.LAST question,

What size is this O ring???? Reason I am asking is in case thos one I am pulling out is distorted and ruined enough not to be able to get a good measurement on it. (Probably can,but I am just asking.)
 
Hello Mike , The little o-ring on the needle valve is 4 mm. o.d. and 2 mm. i.d. the o-ring that seals valve to tank is 9/16 o.d. and .708 i.d. sometimes referred to as a #909 o-ring according to my notes dated April 2001 when I made my jig for the Bridgeport . Thanks Tony
 
My 640 went 20 years with out fuel valve leakage.I always opened the valve just 2 turns.Opening more just wears the O ring, you can see the flat spot on leaky O rings.I also found that Marvel Mystery Oil will cause an O ring to swell up and bind the valve up so tight it takes a big screw driver to open or close the valve.After 6 months the valve will open easy because the o ring dissolves.Do not put any MMO in the gas of the 600 or 800 tractors.
 
(quoted from post at 07:49:17 03/13/13) Thanks everyone.

Alan and Tony,I will be going the "rebuild it" route. I bet I can take the OLD one I pulled out and make it new again also?


I am wondering if a Viton O ring would be a BETTER choice to use????? (Works on my race stuff. )
Click to expand...

There have been plenty of threads about these valves. I am very fortunate to have never had a problem with any of my three. Probably all three this year. I believe that the general consensus has been to stick with the original valve and use viton O-rings.
 
THAT is what I am doing. Took my valve apart this
week end and I HAVE to "Order" Viton" seals this
week. :( NO ONE caries VITON around me.
 
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