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Ford Tractors Discussion Forum
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641 questions

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EarlyBronco

03-05-2013 16:10:43




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Howdy everyone from KS, not my first old tractor (also have a JD 3010) but I just picked up a 641 Ford tractor and had a couple questions and I apologize ahead of time since these questions have been asked before.

1st) when I bought this tractor the seller thought it was a 600 series, but after I checked the serial# and its stamped 641. But the serial# has me confused on the production year. #19187<> (diamond) since it starts with 19 instead of 11 I'm uncertain of production year

2nd) the tractor runs but it seems to idle rough so I picked up new; plugs, wires, rotor, cap, points, condenser, sight glass filter etc.

The hydraulics are slow so I want to change the fluids in the; motor, diff, hydraulics, trans but there's a LOT of recommendations out there for the types of fluids to use, I just want something that I know is safe to use.

Thanks ahead of time guys for any help

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petra79

03-06-2013 16:27:40




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 Re: 641 questions in reply to EarlyBronco, 03-05-2013 16:10:43  
Might be a spring clip on the inner tube holding it in.



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EarlyBronco

03-06-2013 19:58:30




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 Re: 641 questions in reply to petra79, 03-06-2013 16:27:40  
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Ill check for types of retainers tomm, it was nasty and doubt its been changed anywhere near recent.



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EarlyBronco

03-06-2013 16:14:36




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 Re: 641 questions in reply to EarlyBronco, 03-05-2013 16:10:43  
Okay, well, got everything changed out but made a big mistake,

I pulled the sight glass off to change out the screen and gasket but, of course, a steady stream of gas started coming out, so i turned in a thumbscrew just above the sight glass, that I thought would stop the flow of gas (in a panic) so unfortunately I wasn't able to notice where it was originally.

Long story, long lol now it seems like it MAY have flooded (?) because I backed the thumb screw out to far(?) so it's gonna sit till tomm. Prior to it not starting (now), after I finished the tune up it fired up and seemed to run like a champ, but then it died (flooded (?)) and wouldn't start again.

I'm assuming the screw should be out around 2(?) turns?

Also, I pulled the bottom off the air filter assembly but I can't seem to get the air filter cartridge out from the bottom, any tricks/tips??

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Keith Williams

03-07-2013 05:48:43




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 Re: 641 questions in reply to EarlyBronco, 03-06-2013 16:14:36  
"Also, I pulled the bottom off the air filter assembly but I can't seem to get the air filter cartridge out from the bottom, any tricks/tips?? "
STOP!!!
This is NOT a dry air cleaner! There should have been oil in the bottom of the cup you took off. You need to get a manual before you screw this up.
Keith



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EarlyBronco

03-07-2013 06:03:41




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 Re: 641 questions in reply to Keith Williams, 03-07-2013 05:48:43  

Keith Williams said: (quoted from post at 06:48:43 03/07/13) "Also, I pulled the bottom off the air filter assembly but I can't seem to get the air filter cartridge out from the bottom, any tricks/tips??
"

STOP!!!

This is NOT a dry air cleaner! There should have been oil in the bottom of the cup you took off. You need to get a manual before you screw this up.

Keith


Yes, it's an oiled air filter system similar to many classic vehicles, and my John Deere 3010 tractor as well. yes there was oil in the bottom, however, the oil, instead of being black or a clean oil color was a nasty chunky brown color, I want to change the oil in the air filter system and I'd like to change the air filter cartridge as well since I'm finding a LOT if garbage and debris in it.

I also have a I&T shop manual FO-20, but its pretty much useless for basic tune ups or maintenance.
This post was edited by EarlyBronco at 06:14:58 03/07/13.

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Keith Williams

03-07-2013 18:04:23




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 Re: 641 questions in reply to EarlyBronco, 03-07-2013 06:03:41  
Sorry if I was being a little harsh.

Many people just unbolt the air cleaner and then put it in a 5 gal bucket full of diesel to clean them up.

If you go to the other tractor site.
.com
club
Tractor
N
WWW.
Backward
Then go to the Manuals section, you can look at the operator's manual.
Keith



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EarlyBronco

03-08-2013 07:25:59




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 Re: 641 questions in reply to Keith Williams, 03-07-2013 18:04:23  
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No harm done, Keith. Thanks for the link! I've read the manual like 6 times lol TONS of good info in it!

But I know what you mean about the oil bath filter systems, my 1955 Buick Special still has it, I figure why change it? It works well and many aftermarket companies use the oil bath system (oily air filter) as their idea for an "oiled filter" not naming names (k&n) but there are many

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reb-in-pa

03-06-2013 04:01:14




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 Re: 641 questions in reply to EarlyBronco, 03-05-2013 16:10:43  
Hope those new spark plug wires are copper core. None of my four-cylinder Fords like the newer resistor wires -- hard starting, slow response at acceleration, etc.

Good luck.

Ray



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EarlyBronco

03-06-2013 09:06:14




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 Re: 641 questions in reply to reb-in-pa, 03-06-2013 04:01:14  
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They are copper core, I'm glad you told me that! Something to remember.

I'm just concerned because the terminal doesn't clip onto the plug, it looks like it just touches it (the plug)



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EarlyBronco

03-05-2013 20:38:44




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 Re: 641 questions in reply to EarlyBronco, 03-05-2013 16:10:43  
The new spark plug wire set I picked up is a little different, the ends of the wires (where the connector attachs to the spark plugs) don't actually "clip" onto the plug, they look like they just "touch" the end of the plug (?) is that correct?

I picked up some Rotella T 15w40 to change the oil, but wasn't sure if my oil filter is a "spin-on" or cartridge (?) ill have to check tomm
This post was edited by EarlyBronco at 21:06:57 03/05/13.

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soundguy

03-06-2013 11:09:36




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 Re: 641 questions in reply to EarlyBronco, 03-05-2013 20:38:44  
there should be a cup or sleeved end that slides over and rides the tip of the plug.. whether it is a fancy one with a lil spring pressure.. or just folded tabs to hug it. it should not simply set against it.

now.. the end gor the dizzy cap may simple have folded brass ends that SLIP INTO the recesses inthe cap and touch the sourounding conduction surfaces... that's fine..e tc.

post back.



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EarlyBronco

03-06-2013 12:10:34




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 Re: 641 questions in reply to soundguy, 03-06-2013 11:09:36  
I think it's the wrong set, I picked it up in the "6 cylinder " tractor section but it says 4cyl for fords (tractor) on the box but there's 7 wires in the box (?) ill have to take it back and exchange em



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soundguy

03-06-2013 12:17:59




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 Re: 641 questions in reply to EarlyBronco, 03-06-2013 12:10:34  
4cyl sets have 5 wires.

6 cyl sets have 7 wires.

ie.. 1 for each cyl PLUS a coil wire.

someone may have been trying to do a swaparoo and then had to set the box down..to get a more spendy 7 wire set vs a cheaper 5 wire set.



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soundguy

03-05-2013 16:42:27




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 Re: 641 questions in reply to EarlyBronco, 03-05-2013 16:10:43  
not sure why the sn beginning with 19 vs 11 bothers you.. 11xxx was the beginning number for 58.. yours is a mid early 58.

use a utf meeting M2C134 spec for teh hyds. ok to use it in the trans and diffy as well.. otherwise use an 80w90 in the diffy and trans.

I reccomend utf in all 3 if you have a leaky seal between the diffy and hyds where the pto shaft passes thru.

i like a 15w40 for the engine

gap points and plugs to .025

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petra79

03-05-2013 16:31:53




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 Re: 641 questions in reply to EarlyBronco, 03-05-2013 16:10:43  
Year Starting Serial Number
1957 1001
1958 11977
1959 58312
1960 105943
1961 131427
1962 155531
Yours would be a 1958



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soundguy

03-05-2013 16:47:20




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 Re: 641 questions in reply to petra79, 03-05-2013 16:31:53  
ya beat me to the punch :)



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petra79

03-05-2013 16:48:14




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 Re: 641 questions in reply to soundguy, 03-05-2013 16:47:20  
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Learned from the best 8)



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soundguy

03-05-2013 16:53:41




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 Re: 641 questions in reply to petra79, 03-05-2013 16:48:14  
quick followup too!



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