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ford 4000 backhoe

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Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
my ford 4000 industrial backhoe tractor. oil drain pan is all steel. looks like to pull it off it requires splitting the tractor. is this correct or any other way to get pan off. have head off wanted to replace piston rings but if i have to split tractor not going to worry about it. any help?
 
Decatur, welcome to the Ford board.
Trying to understand your post here.
First is your tractor a 3 cyl 4000 variant or is it the older 4 cylinder model?
Secondly, most Ford tractors had steel oil pans. Some of the 3 cylinder industrial models and most of the larger ag models 5000, 7000, etc
had CAST IRON oil pans.
Does yours have the cast iron pan?
If so then yes you will need to split the bolster away from the engine as there are big studs that bolt the pan to the bolster.
 
sorry its a 3 cylinder. and yes it has the cast iron drain pan. dont quite understan what the bolster is? so exactly what is involved as far as getting oil pan off? maybe this is way over my head thx
 
If you're in this deep you might as well just split it and do the job right. You won't have it running an hour and the rear seal will be leaking... if it isn't already... and that requires a split.

Rod
 
The bolster is also called the front axle support. It is the large cast piece in front of the lower part of the engine, and below the radiator. If you have a 3 cylinder 4000 series backhoe with a cast iron oil pan, it is most likely a 4500 model, or possibly a 4400. What would need to be split is the bolster from the front of the engine, not the rear of the engine from the transmission.
 
so how much is involved in splitting the bolster from the engine? does it require alot of knowledge and heavy work? is the rear seal located in between the bolster and engine? just trying to figure this out? thx
 
(quoted from post at 04:48:21 02/28/13) so how much is involved in splitting the bolster from the engine? does it require alot of knowledge and heavy work? is the rear seal located in between the bolster and engine? just trying to figure this out? thx
Click to expand...

There is a useful trick for separation of the pan from the bolster. You will need to remove the radiator and disconnect oil coolers, steering lines etc. Then you remove two of the bolts that hold the bolster to the pan, and replace them with two that are about four inches longer. Then you remove the other two and then you can slide the bolster ahead a little and out of the way. Be careful with the washers between the bolster and pan, they are SHIMS. The rear seal is at the back end of the motor. As Rod says it is probably due to fail also, so if you have the time it would be good to replace it as well. Both jobs require some jacking. and blocking for safety. Use a jack to lower the oil pan. IT IS HEAVY. Most people roll the rear away from the front. Get a trailer jack and fabricate a bracket that will enable you to attach the jack to the side of the rear housing for stability and ease of rolling.
 
On a TLB I suppose there is a fair bit of work, moreso given you alredy have the head off... You need to be able to move the engine away from the transmission about a foot... or at least 6" and lift it out.
It would be a lot easier if the loader and hoe were already off.
No doubt it can be blocked and the subframe removed if necessary but nothing will be easy.
Mabey you want to revaluate wether or not you want to rering it now. I'm just saying realistically... if you're going to get into rings... you probably want to look at the bores and probably sleeve that block if it's suspect, then do the remainder of the bottom end.

Rod
 
On my 3-cyl Ford 4000 AG tractor, I had the same problem. Those two bolts under the bolster can only come out 'RIGHT' with the engine pulled. I took a 4" grinder with a cut-off disk and cut them just below the pan, turned them with a wrench until they were cut into. Slid the pan out, loosened the cut-off bolt with hand or vice grip, and when I put it back together, used short almost stubby bolts with 1/2" shank and no lock washer.
Course, I did my job in the field where I had been bush-hogging and damaged the pan. Used a 3K inverter powered of my gator. So my work environment wasn't as good as a shop, so you'd have so many more options in your shop.
Wayne
 
thx for all ur input guys. i dont know iof i want to go through all the trouble. i kinda like wayne b suggestion is this a good way to do it? also kinda like the ida of removing radiator and getting to bolts. wouldnt have to splitt anything than would i? thx if wayne b could get back to me also about his way. thx
 
(quoted from post at 17:00:40 02/28/13) thx for all ur input guys. i dont know iof i want to go through all the trouble. i kinda like wayne b suggestion is this a good way to do it? also kinda like the ida of removing radiator and getting to bolts. wouldnt have to splitt anything than would i? thx if wayne b could get back to me also about his way. thx
Click to expand...

I've never worked on a 4500, but if yours is a 4500 with the hydraulic tank in the nosecone, I would think that you would have to pull off the entire nosecone, hydraulic tank and all before you could pull the radiator. But maybe there's some way to do it without all that.

Please post a picture of your tractor, or the numbers off of the flat spot on the transmission bell housing just aft of the starter, so we know what you've actually got. All you've said is it's a "3 cylinder 4000 Industrial backhoe", which could mean that it's a 4500, the true "Industrial" model of the 4000 series, or a 4400, which was actually called a "Utility" tractor by Ford, but lots of folks refer to them as Industrial, or it could be a plain old ag chassis 4000 that someone stuck a subframe type backhoe onto and then whoever sold it to you called it an "Industrial".
 
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