5000 clutch job,

Ted E.Bear

New User
hi again, i posted a few days ago about the clutch slipping, and decided to get a clutch job done, my tractor is a 1965 model, 8sp ind.pto, so as near as i can tell its a single clutch,, ive never done a clutch job, but do most all other work to my tractors n equip, is it gonna be a bear to do this? i know i have to split the tractor,but once i get in there what do i look forward to?
thanks
 
i did find the serial number which is c114173 5k1 , i looked all the info up and also found this ,c5nn on the trans housing,
 
I'd be most concerned about the date code and the spline count and style of the clutch once you get the thing split. There were various clutches available for these tractors... so just find which one it has and get another.

Hy-Capacity often sells a reman pressure plate that's fairly decent... I'd probably go with that unless it's really getting the snot worked out of it... then I'd probably go with an OEM clutch disc.
Also prudent to change the engine rear seal and the pilot and release bearings while you're in there...

Rod
 
If memory serve me right, I put a flat washer (8 of them )between the preasure plate and the flywheel so as to give the fingers enough room to disengage the clutch disk. I beleive you will have a six bolt or and eight bolt mounting, bolting the preasure plate to the flywheel The parts book shows shims for that purpose,which I didn"t have. My 5000 is a 1972 with 256 engine.
 
Would not be a bad idea to consider re-surfacing the flywheel while you are in there too. It will provide a longer service life for your new clutch.
 
this job is approaching for me as well. I think I finally used up all my adjustment last summer.

I hope to simply make it thru mowing season this year with her then split her.

just got some practice on a jd 2240.. but the 5000 is bigger.... not looking forward to splitting these bigger tractors.. :)
 
hey thanks to all the replies, ur makine me feel better bout having to do this job,lol, i have noticed that there is so many different splines an so on, so i guess i will wait till i get it apart b4 buying the new, that way i can match it up, thanks
 

get a trailer jack and make up a bracket like Hobo posted on here awhile back. It will make handling much easier and safer.
 
i can't imagine bigger being easier to split than smaller.. just looking at weight issue and all.

with a friend and a 'here hold this and stay out of the way' helper, I had that 2240 split in about 2 hours, after fighting with the hydro lines on the right side.

that was in a nice enclosed shop with concrete floor, overhead hoist, lotsa floor jacks and stands.

my shop's got none of that. :)

I'll be lucky if I can use my stepdads shop... :)
 
hit enter before finished.

contrast that 2240 split to one I did on my much, much smaller farmall C. I don't think it took 45m by myself to get split. in fact.. it may have taken 30m. much smaller.. much lighter.. easier to manipulate.

after my heart problems a couple years ago.. I've been scraping the bottom of the BBL and only doing smaller projects.. that case VAC and the farmall C.. a dearborn plow.. etc..

Oh well.. the 5000's gonna need a clutch whether I want to do it or not. can't change that.

I forsee my wife coming home and seeing the 5000 taken apart on the driveway.. :)
 
With small tractors... I think more in terms of the jap imports. They're harder to split than a 5000 if you're using jacks... I find it generally takes 3 floor jacks and 8 arms to manipulate the little tractors around because they want to topple over or the rear end wants to lift before the mis section when you're jacking...
The easiest tractor anyone could ever hope to split is a 2wd 10 series row crop. Ya don't even remove the hood on those old dolls. Just rub their belly.... and they spread.

Rod
 

ah.. ok.. I understand what you are saying.

on a jap import.. they are a short tranny and rear and might tip back.

them ldiy small ones ai split had long torque tubes.. etc..
 
I have found when the adjustment is gone you can cut & weld the clutch rod and get a few hundred/thousand more hours. Worked for me anyway.
 

It seems I split my 9000 every year. Last time the worst problem was struggling with it for probably an hour before I noticed there was still one bolt way above my head holding the hood. So I would have to say size matters. LOL
 
I can't see how that would gain you much myself... Most of mine are to the point of slipping and squalking long before the adjustment runs out? When the disc is already that thin there's not enough tension left on the PP springs to pull a good load.
Mabey alright if you're just putzing around with it but put it against 10 ton where it's got to pull... not going to work so good.
A split is so easy on that thing anyway it's not worth buggering with.

Rod
 

naa.. i was joking.

mines adjusted tot he max, and last year befroe adjustment.. i could make it slip if I handled it right.

this year will wear all the good out of it.. if it ain't already..
 
I bought my 5600 with a broken tranny case and swapped a junk yard tranny into it. At the time the clutch looked like it had life in it, and honestly I was broke between the tractor purchase and tranny purchase, so I didn't put a fresh clutch in it. once it was all together, the clutch released right at the top of the travel, but no more threads left to adjust, so I cut it and rewelded to gain more length (or less length, I can't remember the geometry on that one). That was in 2005. I agree, I'm not pulling 10 ton every day, but it is my loader, haying and logging tractor and it is still going strong (knock on wood) over 1,000 hours later. Until this fall I didn't have a garage that it would fit in so I would have been splitting it outside again.
 
well i finally had time to strip and split my tractor, i found the clutch plate to be glazed and dryed out, the flywheel is not all grooved out, its pretty smooth,the pressure plate seems the same way, the pilot and throwout bearings are smooth with no slack in them, shoult i go ahead and replace the pressure plate? and still turn the flywheel? and replace the 2 bearings?
 
Make you a deal, SG.

We can trade places. My 74 3000 needs clutch done, and have never seen the job done, so have been shopping around for prices. Give me enough notice to get my time off work, and you can stand over my shoulder and give me destructions for the heavy stuff. We can get both done at one fell swoop.
Pizza will be provided of course. Ill get my fresh batch of vacation time at end of April. Shoot me an email some time and see what we can work out, may even have a car mechanic near me on 40 that might let me talk him into using one side, will talk to him this week and see what he says.
 

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