clutch job in the grass?

Laneman · Feb 4, 2013

I have a 3000 diesel with 730 loader, wondering how
hard a clutch job would be in the grass since I
don't have a slab yet. All I have is some 3/4
plywood to set the floor jack on. Seems like the
jack would sink into the wood. I was just about to
begin a pole barn using the tractor for drilling,
then the clutch went out. Another idea I have is to
pour a slab where the pole barn will be, but I would
need to locate it just right so I can drill the
poles in later. Looking for some ideas.

Laneman · Feb 4, 2013

I'm also looking for a photo tutorial of the clutch job, haven't found one on here. I did find one for an older N model, but was hoping for a 3000 or 2000 tutorial.

souNdguy · Feb 4, 2013

I've done a clutch on planks or plywood.. mind you it was a lil smaller than a 3000.

use some 2x6x8x10x12, etc under the jack stands on top of the plywood.. and use a flat/leveled area.. have a rolling jack ready to roll the back from the front as the front will be more stationary depending on that loader and how much you drop it. id STILL jimmy the front axle with wedges, just because.

Jim in Ma. · Feb 4, 2013

I have used plywood.
You need level ground to start with. I like to hang the front and roll the back half. You may need to remove the loader - I don't know how it mounts to that tractor. For the most part, the job is the same as an "N" just a little larger.
I have used a tree - a tri-pod and pipe staging on wheels. Take your pick.
If you live in a cold or wet climit, you could tent it using some 1" PVC pipe and a cheap tarp.
3/4" plywood should work but if you worry, use two layers. Good Luck

sotxbill · Feb 4, 2013

btdi....

its messy but works... get the loader off first and move the tractor backwards away from the loader. split the tractor and roll the back half back just enough to clear.. ie about 15 inches will do it. you can use long threaded rods between the halfs to help put it back together on rough ground but dont force it or you will ruin the splines.. be patient and use a alignment tool when you bolt down the pressure plate..

have lots of jack stands, wood blocks and 2x12 scraps handy to keep things from sinking..

count on scratching the paint when you put the loader back on.

reb-in-pa · Feb 4, 2013

Laneman --

You might consider pouring a small pad with Sakrete or other pre-mixed stuff. I wouldn't think it would take more than 8-10 bags to pour a 4-5 inch thick pad two or three feet square. Put some scrap iron in it, let it dry for a couple of days, and you have a stable platform. Were it I, I would probably put it where the barn's going to be and either integrate it or eventually bury it. I'd also think you want to put plywood under the rear at the get-go to make it easier to roll, and to catch the occasional falling nut or pin or spring or whatever little thing might otherwise get lost in the grass.

Good luck.

Ray

RodinNS · Feb 4, 2013

I'd probably place the plywood under the front wheels so they can roll ahead on that... then use a pair of 2x8's with 3-4 rollers between them under the engine to roll that ahead. Just set a trolly jack on top of the 2x8. It won't be easy but it will work.
I've always prefered to roll the engine end myself rather than the back half.

Rod

souNdguy · Feb 4, 2013

he'd have to fully drop that loader to do so...

RodinNS · Feb 4, 2013

Gonna have to drop it anyway... unless it's radically different than most others.

Rod

souNdguy · Feb 4, 2013

dropping it in place on some jack stands so it can be bolted right back up is 1 thing, and much easier than running over to the edge of the field, dropping it.. then going back to do the split, just so you can roll the front half forward instead of rolling the back half backward.

I just split a JD 2240 ( about the size of a 4000 ) to do a clutch and it has an 8' sweeper broom attachment on front. the subframe DOES hit the side of the tranny on each side.

I DID disconnect the bolts and leave it propped up, and then i rolled the back of the tractor waay..did the clutch and roleld it back and bolted everything together.

WAY WAY easier than dropping that front attachment completely so i had room to move forward.

I kinda see his loader setup working out the same way.

I'm just trying to think of the least amount of work for the OP..

Vito · Feb 4, 2013

Put down plywood.Crip the front of the tractor.Roll rear section backwards with a floor jack under it.Up to you if you want to remove the loader.You could just unbolt the rear mounts,strap the steering column,with 2 ratchet straps to the loader uprights.Of course a few other things have to be removed but this is food for thought.We did it this way when I switched transmissions on my 961.

HTH

Vito

Welding man · Feb 4, 2013

Ford indutrial tractors like the 540B are designed to split with the loader left attached to the front. Crib the engine and loader arms,remove the bolts where the loader frame attaches to the rear axle.Lay down a piece of heavy ply wood or borrow a sheet of 1/4 in steel plate and roll it out on a floor jack. We do all loader tractors this way. I never remove the loader unless it's a Quick Attach.

Bern · Feb 4, 2013

I always left those Ford loaders on, and simply rolled the back end out. It is far less work than completely removing that loader and THEN splitting it.

RodinNS · Feb 4, 2013

I suppose it might be easier on something with drum brakes. I never found it much fun trying to roll the back end against a set of planetaries on the double reduction axles.
Easier in this case would also depend on how much stuff you have to work around with the loader in place... and what gear you have to put the loader back on... I'd probably base my choice on how easily I thought I could get those two top 7/8" bolts out with my shoulders wedged into the loader...
I'm not necessarly disagreeing with either of you... but my preference has generally been to have the loader elsewhere when doing a split.

On 30 series tractors I also pull the entire steering pedestal off while others would fight around it.

Rod

Bern · Feb 4, 2013

I've split many a 4000, 5000, 6600, etc. with the 735 Ford loaders without a problem. With the bucket on the ground, the back frames drop down and clear the rear axles quite nicely. The only problem I've ever had is with really narrow rear tire tread settings, but then you're fighting that in a complete loader removal as well.

chevytaHOE5674 · Feb 4, 2013

I split my 5000 outside on snow and ice in the winter time to do the clutch. I left the loader frame on the tractor just unbolted it from the trans and rear end and then rolled the rear end backwards. Worked just fine.

Laneman · Feb 4, 2013

Thanks everyone, my original plan was to just unhook the loader at the rear axles and roll the back away. I have plenty of 3/4 plywood sheets. I also have some 2'x2' concrete pads about 3" thick, was thinking of putting the floor jack on a few of these instead of on plywood. Based on all your replies it seems like it will work. I sure appreciate the tips.

Should I drain the rear tires or does it matter?

RodinNS · Feb 4, 2013

No need to drain the tires. Just more work...

Rod

Brian in MA · Feb 5, 2013

I've always rolled the back out too. The big rear tires give me good mechanical advantage and good control. That's assuming you tie the brake pedals up. I found out the hard way that the weight of the brake pedals once the return springs are removed will stop the rear end of a 5600 from rolling backwards. Scratched our heads for an hour trying to figure out what bound up so it wouldn't roll.

sotxbill · Feb 5, 2013

helps to have serveral folks when you do a roll back.. one on each side and one to watch the jacks as you eassssseeeeee it back... but i have done it by myself.

steve n carol · Feb 7, 2013

1st time, by myself, on some old carpet on the dirt. I had to pull the engine. Perhaps I would have done it differently, if I didn't pull the engine. Here is a brief run down.
BTW, I still can't find my steering wheel self locking nut!

Left the loader on and up on my 4500.

Cribbed the bucket, loader arms w/4-X's (r. vertical).

(wedge the front axle).

Rolled the front end (hard nose, wheels), forward,

(hope you wedged the front axle).?

Split the tractor.

Pulled the engine. I had to pull the engine for rebuild.

New clutch parts (all) and trans seal.

Used the elevated loader arms to anchor my come along to pull the engine.

While I didn't generate a "tutorial", I did do a write up.

I researched MUCH! mostly HERE!

LOTS of experience and help HERE!

BE CAREFUL! WEDGE THOSE FRONT WHEELS! put a strap all the way around, to keep the wedges in!

Write up a tutorial w/pics..... sl

clutch job in the grass?

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