861 Head Gasket Change part 2

Tom Bond · Jan 20, 2013

Ok, you were right. I couldn't take it. Had to pull the head tonight. This is my first one so please tell me what you think. In the last 2 pics of the head, all I see is in between the cylinders, it looks like the gasket opened up over the water jacket. There looks like a hole by each one. ??? I'll start cleaning up stuff tomorrow and take a closer look at everything. Anything stand out that I should be looking for?

awhtx · Jan 20, 2013

It looks to me like the gasket is bad between #2 and #3 cylinders and those pistons look cleaner that #1 and #4 so they have been "steam cleaned".
Can you see a path that water could have followed from the water jacket to the cylinders?

souNdguy · Jan 21, 2013

and #2 looks to have green coolant setting in the jug..

Mike Groom · Jan 21, 2013

Looks like a leaky head gasket,you may want to check the head for flatness or have it resurfaced before you put it back on.

old · Jan 21, 2013

On #1 and #4 piston is that just carbon build up on the tops of them or is that pitting?? If it is pitting I would drop the pan and check the rod bearings to make sure it was not run to long with water in the oil

JMOR · Jan 21, 2013

looking for coolant path into cylinder. Look at circled area on opposite side of gasket

Tom Bond · Jan 21, 2013

(quoted from post at 19:13:02 01/21/13) On #1 and #4 piston is that just carbon build up on the tops of them or is that pitting?? If it is pitting I would drop the pan and check the rod bearings to make sure it was not run to long with water in the oil

It's carbon buildup. The cylinders/head look worse than they are. I put in a couple tablespoons oil in each one for my wet compression test. The coolant in the bolt holes and #2 was me. It spilled in there when I broke the head loose. Cleaning starts tonight.

old · Jan 21, 2013

The coolant problem is why you should drain the radiator and also pull the block drain so that is not a problem. Yep learned that one the hard way decades ago my self. I do think if you have a place that would not charge and arm and leg have the head magnifluxed to make sure it has no cracks

Tom Bond · Jan 21, 2013

Started getting things cleaned up tonight. How agressive can I get with sandpaper to clean up the gasket surfaces on the head and block a little better or should this suffice? I ran a file across it to knock down any burrs and put a straight edge across the head. Couldn't even see daylight anywhere. Looks pretty straight. Local shop wants $240 to magniflux and surface the head if they think it needs it. I think I'm just going to try the head gasket and see what happens. If the oil turns milky again, I've only sacrificed $45 for a gasket and my time instead of $240 for something I might not need. I'll take the gamble. Oh Oh...I gambled on the Bears too. Hope the outcome is better with this. Does anyone know if the seal for the oil inlet line on the rocker arm support comes with the normal head gasket sets? Can't really tell in any pics and was going to order the set online tonight.

RBnSC · Jan 22, 2013

BTDT Be sure the head bolt holes and bolts are clean before you put it back together. Good luck.
Ron

Will Gumbert · Jan 22, 2013

Tom- I would recommend you consider getting a FelPro gasket set, if you're not already. They are good quality and their kits usually come with all you need, but maybe someone else here can confirm that for this application.
Personally, I have had the best luck with their gaskets. -Will

GT65 · Jan 22, 2013

Aren't those HD digital cameras nice. Boy it does look like a crack, but if you hold the control key(all the way low and left on the keyboard)down while pushing the + key(upper right next to the "backspace"key) you can Zoom right down on it and then it doesn't look like a crack.
GT65

GT65 · Jan 22, 2013

My apologies JMOR, you didn't say anything about a crack, just a coolant path to the cylinder. I read the post wrong at first.
GT65

Tom Bond · Jan 22, 2013

The Felpro head gasket set I'm looking at is # HS7761B2. They have it at NAPA. Has to be shipped in. Just want to make sure it's the correct one and includes the oil inlet line seal. Picture looks like it has it in there. Anyone ever order this set? Doesn't say bolt size but 7/16" or 1/2", is it that big a deal? That would be 1/32" bigger all the way around the hole if it's the 1/2", not the 7/16" I have.

showcrop · Jan 22, 2013

I would be taking it to a shop and get it surfaced and checked for straightness. It costs way less than magnafluxing and can reveal problems that would otherwise result in a failure in a short time.

Hobo,NC · Jan 22, 2013

(quoted from post at 06:25:05 01/21/13)

I did not see yer TDC issue with the pressure test till it was to late (my bed time),,, Anywho you were almost their and it would have took most of the guess work out of this...

BTW you could have got the rocker arms on the rock found TDC for each cylinder and learned something that would benefit you on most all the engines you take on...

Bern,,, that head sure nuff looks like a N block to me less the pistons

ZANE · Jan 23, 2013

I just today finished replacing a head gasket on a 172 gas. It was blown in the same place but a lot worse. Had about a 1/2" gap between #s 2 and 3 cylinders and boy did it run bad. No water in the oil at all.

Cleaned up the deck and the head and installed a new gasket.

Running great this afternoon.

Zane

ASEguy · Jan 24, 2013

Tom, Instead of Magnafluxing the head go to the auto parts store and get a dye penetrant test kit. They are about $50.00 and will find the little cracks that escape the naked eye. Cheap peace of mind. Gerard

861 Head Gasket Change part 2

Tom Bond

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awhtx

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souNdguy

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Mike Groom

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old

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JMOR

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Tom Bond

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old

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Tom Bond

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RBnSC

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Will Gumbert

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GT65

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Tom Bond

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showcrop

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ZANE

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