Head Gasket Change / 861

Tom Bond

Member
Ok. Ordering parts. I see both metalic and non-metalic head gaskets available. Which one is better? Also, how about the copper spray I've seen in a few discussions in the archives? Is it needed or better off not? As for buying gaskets, it kinda looks like if I just buy a whole head gasket kit, it will give me more gaskets than I need but I might be able to use them later on. A bit more expensive but maybe better in the long run. Any input on best place to buy the kits? Seems like everyone has them. Tisco looks like main producer. Any better or worse?
 
i used the felpro head kit a while back when i did my 4000 4 cyl after it hung and bent it's pushrods. head kit had side cover gaskets and all... good kit.

forget the spray... some like it... I have used it on flatheads.. don't normally.

if I had a block with a minor scratched deck i might do it.. but if it's a good deck and head.. it ain't needed.

remember to set valves and then retorque after warm. event he felpro one that says it don't need it. do it.. won't hurt nuttin.
 
Most gasket sets I get I buy at the local O'Reilly's auto parts store since they are close by and I have an account with them so I get them a tad bit cheaper. I have always used the copper coat spray on engine but one I did not but used the aluminum paint on it but I also used a used head gasket. But that is a story in it self. I always buy the head set of full set since if you buy just the head and valve cover gasket I have found it cost more. ALWAYS re-torque the head bolts after you have it warmed up
 

Get a fel-pro are Victor set :!: ... I hope you took the time to locate the cylinder in question before you drove in... If not take the head to a machine shop and have it checked not all cracks can not be see with the naked eye... Are roll the dice like most do here maybe you will get lucky...
 
(quoted from post at 14:14:47 01/15/13)
Get a fel-pro are Victor set :!: ... I hope you took the time to locate the cylinder in question before you drove in... If not take the head to a machine shop and have it checked not all cracks can not be see with the naked eye... Are roll the dice like most do here maybe you will get lucky...
Locate the clyinder? Not sure what you mean. Was going to pull the head and see if it is in fact just a blown gasket. Should be obvious. If not apparent, then I'll get the head fluxed and/or look for worse.
 
Just working on locating all the parts. I noticed one of the manifold flanges is cracked so I'm just going to replace the manifold while I'm into it. They're about $100-$120 on a few sites. Hopefully they will be a decent replacement. I see they they all come with oval holes for the carb. Kind of a universal fit I take it. Won't get into until next week. Last weekend of deer season here in Illinois so I'll be in the timber somewhere in N. Illinois all weekend. Will hold off ordering the parts until I get the head off to make sure I don't find something else that needs replacement. Been doing alot of reading and research. If just the headgasket and manifold, looks very doable. Service manual saving me.
 
Does anyone know if that "O" ring for the oil inlet line over the rocker arm assembly is just a normal "O"ring and not anything special? Nobody seems to list it anywhere that I can find. I have 100 different sizes at the shop in stock and if it's just plain old rubber, I'll match it up and go for it.
 
(quoted from post at 20:59:05 01/15/13) Does anyone know if that "O" ring for the oil inlet line over the rocker arm assembly is just a normal "O"ring and not anything special? Nobody seems to list it anywhere that I can find. I have 100 different sizes at the shop in stock and if it's just plain old rubber, I'll match it up and go for it.

Part number on the new Holland web site is EAA6594A. A Google search shows it available lots of places for around a buck individually, as low as 35 cents a piece if you buy a bag of 10. No one seems to let on what size it is though, and from the pictures it looks like it's not really an o-ring. It's listed as a "seal" and it looks like a thick rubber washer, flat on the top and bottom, and straight up-and-down on the outer rim and inner race.
 

Cylinder in question would be the cylinder are cylinders were the leak is occurring before you fudge with it...

The test are simple but probably to simple for most to get a handle on so just dig into it and hope for the best..
 
(quoted from post at 03:21:40 01/16/13)
Cylinder in question would be the cylinder are cylinders were the leak is occurring before you fudge with it...

The test are simple but probably to simple for most to get a handle on so just dig into it and hope for the best..
Yea, we're just not too smart up North this way.....
 
(quoted from post at 19:03:40 01/15/13)
(quoted from post at 20:59:05 01/15/13) Does anyone know if that "O" ring for the oil inlet line over the rocker arm assembly is just a normal "O"ring and not anything special? Nobody seems to list it anywhere that I can find. I have 100 different sizes at the shop in stock and if it's just plain old rubber, I'll match it up and go for it.

Part number on the new Holland web site is EAA6594A. A Google search shows it available lots of places for around a buck individually, as low as 35 cents a piece if you buy a bag of 10. No one seems to let on what size it is though, and from the pictures it looks like it's not really an o-ring. It's listed as a "seal" and it looks like a thick rubber washer, flat on the top and bottom, and straight up-and-down on the outer rim and inner race.

The "A" suffix usually indicates 70 durometer hardness and used when temperatures are a sustained 250-300F.
 
I always use copper spray. So do most car engine builders I know. Agree, it may not be needed in some cases, but it"s there and is good, cheapo insurance against doing the job twice.
 

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