Where do I put in the hydraulic oil?

Dave314

New User
I have a 1962 Ford 2000 Industrial tractor and I'm replacing two of the hydraulic hoses and I have a couple of questions. Do I use ISO 46 Hydraulic Oil and where do I put it in at? The woman at Tractor Supply said I might use this oil or maybe transmission fluid so I want to make sure I put in the correct stuff. Thanks....
 

If you're speaking of the integral tractor hydraulics, the fill plug is under the seat. ISO 46 is not correct. You need a UHF/UTF that meets or exceeds NH 134-D spec.

I your speaking of hydraulics that run off a crankshaft mounted front pump then the reservoir is likely in the loader frame. If this is the case, I'm not familiar with what the oil specs are for this.
 
Could you please explain that in simple English? I don't know
what "integral tractor hydraulics" are or what "a crankshaft
mounted front pump" is either. I replaced the two hoses that go
to the controls of the two levers that make the front bucket go up
and down and tilt forward and back. There's a plug on the little
box that these two control levers are on so does the oil go in
there? Is the other oil you're talking about automatic transmission
fluid? Thanks....
 

Let me see if I can do better. Many industrial tractors are set up to run loaders and backhoes that are powered by means of an auxiliary pump. This pump is often attached to the front of the engine and is driven by the crankshaft. If this is the type of system you're inquiring about, then there will a reservoir other than that contained within the housing of the tractor, often part of the loader frame. I do not know specs on the oil for this type of system.

A normal ag tractor with a 3 point hitch will hold its hydraulic in the center housing. This is the cavity between the transmission and rear axle. This type of system requires a Tractor Fluid or Hydraulic Fluid that meets or exceeds the New Holland Spec M2C-134-D. It is not an ATF (automatic transmission fluid).
 
he told you in plain english.

at this point.. if you don't know what a crank shaft is.. or where it is onthe tractor.. might be time to sell it, and use the money to hire the work done :)

integral.. as in built in.. a part of.

many tractors have a built in hyd pump.. etc.

the hyds compartment on a 55-64 is under a bug plug under your left thigh on the hyds cover..
 
He could actually use ISO 46 in an isolated hydraulic compartment like that one where it's not acting as a gear lubricant... Again, I say could. If it was mine I'd still use TDH/134D for the sake of simplicity as the cost is about the same...

Rod
 
This sure sounds like a townie that bought an acreage in the country to me. Then thinking this farming and machinery stuff is easy and good fun. Tractors, Backhoes and tools should need a training course and licence to purchase them in these cases. I wonder How many of these guys get hurt and push the farm accident stats and make genuine farmers/ trained equipment operators look bad because they had no clue.
Regards Robert
 
even so.. simply buying a few dollar manual to go with a few thousand dollar tractor seems like a good way to start.

these guy's that won't buy a manual amaze me...
 
or you'll what?

whine?

cool.

besides..that was the nice answer..

you're still ahead at this point. good time to quit. ;)
 
Not cool. Not cool at all. Some of us enjoy learning and ask for help when we need it. There"s no reason to respond this way.
 
Thanks for the link, Fordfarmer. I ordered one and paid with Paypal which made it real easy.

I guess I'm like the guy on Green Acres except I'm not a rich lawyer and my wife isn't named Gabor.

Getting back to my original post, do I use hydraulic oil or some type of transmission fluid? I replaced both lines yesterday and would like to finish the job but I want to make sure I use the correct oil. Thanks....
 
Go with a UTF (Universal Tractor Fluid) that meets New Holland (Ford) 134D specs. It will list what specs it meets on the bucket or jug. The hydraulic resevoir is separate from the transmission and rear end, but the seals between the compartments often leak, so it's best to use an oil that will work in the hydraulics AND the gear cases.
 
I bought 5 gallons of the 134D at Walmart. I removed the plug under the seat and put about a gallon of it in there. I started the tractor and moved the two levers that control the bucket. One lever made the bucket go up when I moved it both forward and back. I couldn't get it to go down. The other lever didn't tilt it up and down like it's supposed to. It didn't do anything at all. Next I removed the two hoses and switched them because I thought maybe they were on backwards, but the same thing happened. One lever makes the bucket go up when it's moved in either direction and the other lever doesn't do anything. Any idea what the problem is now? I'm only interested in hearing from guys who can make positive comments. Thanks....
 
(quoted from post at 14:21:38 01/12/13)

What was the level of the oil on the dipstick after you added the gallon?

Are the boom cylinders single acting or double? If they're single you'll need to add fluid until it's on the full mark all cylinders extended with the boom all the way up.

Sounds like you've still got hoses screwed up to me, as well as not enough oil yet. Did you take one end of the hoses off and crisscross the connections, or did you take the hoses off completely and swap them?

You need to learn to speak in more sophisticated terms to get the most out of the help we have to give.
 
More sophisticated terms? What kind of an assinine comment is
that? What are you, some kind of a drama queen? This is a tractor
website, not one for nuclear physics. I'll go somewhere else to ask
my questions. Grow up, a$$hole....
 
(quoted from post at 19:41:49 01/12/13) More sophisticated terms? What kind of an assinine comment is
that? What are you, some kind of a drama queen? This is a tractor
website, not one for nuclear physics. I'll go somewhere else to ask
my questions. Grow up, a$$hole....

oil??? Are you the same person (Dave314) that asked the original questions? Why did you change your handle from Dave 314 to oil? That's just adding to the confusion if you did. If you (oil) are not the same person as the original Dave314, then stop posting as if you are.

Now Dave314 posted this:

Next I removed the two hoses and switched them because I thought maybe they were on backwards

This is what Larry was asking you to be more clear about. Correct routing of hydraulic fluid in a loader is a very exacting thing, so you need to be more clear how you describe what changes you made.

Your statement about switching the 2 hoses appears to mean that you removed both ends of both hoses and just swap the positions of the 2 hoses, which will not actually change anything about the way the fluid flows. Did you mean to say that you disconnected one end of each hose and swapped their positions? This would make more sense as this would reverse the flow from the original configuration.

So let's get a more detailed description of your loader setup.

Do you have 2 hydraulic cylinders, one on each side, that provide the lift for the arms, or just 1? These are called the lift cylinders. If the loader has arms on both sides, they generally have 2 lift cylinders, but there are "one armed" loaders that only have a single lift cylinder.

Do the lift cylinders each have 2 hydraulic lines going to them, or just 1 hydraulic line each? If there are 2 lines going to each cylinder, then they are double acting, meaning that the hydraulics provides power to both lift and lower the arms. If they only have one line going to them, then that is called single acting, and the hydraulics only provide power to lift the arms, while gravity provides the power to lower the arms. Whether you have single or double acting cylinders will help us to try to figure out what is going wrong, as we are not there in person and we can only guess what's going on if we don't have the full picture..

Do you have 1 or 2 (or possibly none) hydraulic cylinders that control the curling/dumping of the bucket? These are called the bucket cylinders. If it has none, and instead uses a manual cable or lever to dump the bucket, then that's called a trip bucket.

Do the bucket cylinders have 1 or 2 hydraulic lines going to each one? (that is if your loader actually has any bucket cylinders)

Also, we still don't know if the loader is being run off the tractor's internal hydraulics or if it has a separate front mounted pump with a separate reservoir. If you don't know, could you please provide some pictures so that we can try to determine this for you?

Please answer these questions as clearly as you can and then we will probably have more questions once we know exactly what kind of loader setup you have. Your answer doesn't have to be "sophisticated", just clearly stated so that nothing is ambiguous or left for us to guess at.
 
(quoted from post at 20:50:50 01/12/13)

oil??? Are you the same person (Dave314) that asked the original questions? Why did you change your handle from Dave 314 to oil? That's just adding to the confusion if you did. If you (oil) are not the same person as the original Dave314, then stop posting as if you are.

Great catch Sean. I'm on modern view which doesn't show that IP address. Once I switched to classic there it is.

I guess it's alright for him to tell me I need "to put things in English", but when I ask him to be more clear about things, I get that kind of reply. To top that off he's brave enough to try to hide behind some other identity????

It's OK! I'll quit trying to help him now! I don't have any tolerance for such treatment, especially from someone I'm trying to help.
 
Hi
This is my full time jobs fixing equipment/ Farming and not the first rodeo ive had with guys that no nothing about machinery and get into serious trouble in accidents or with wrenches, because they have no clue about the stuff. My life would be a lot easier some days in the shop with out them farming their acreage, as they buy "fantastic" L.O.L equipment from a guy that sees them coming a mile off. Then when it quits I have to tell them it was $8000 of junk and it needs $4000 more that it's not worth spending on it!.
so if you where in my shoes dealing with this then you may have a different opinion too, especially when they took it apart to try fix it! and I got a kit of parts to try and put together and then find and fix the problem on a $3 budget!.
Regards Robert
 


Look between the radiator and the crank pulley on the front of the engine. If there is something in that space attached to the crank pulley, and it has hydraulic hoses attached, you are looking at the auxillary hydraulic pump that your loader uses to operate it's cylinders. If there is nothing attached to the crank pulley, then more than likely the loader runs off the tractor's built in hydraulic system. Tell us what you see, and as previously mentioned, take pics and post them here if you can. We will be better able to give you some guidance if you give us as much info as possible.
You have been given some good advice. Some replies were a touch on the hot side, but even though you are frustrated and want to get your machine fixed right now, attempting to hide behind an alternate handle for the purpose of getting back at someone, shows that you not only know little about tractors, but also, little about IP addresses.
 
Hi
sorry it came across that way it's just the truth about what has happened round us here, it's actually a bit quieter with the acreage guys now, fuel prices, high cattle feed costs and other rising costs have taken care of a lot of guys coming out of the city. its cheaper for them to stay there and drive to work for the return they get out here.
Don't get me wrong I've had a fair few real good acreage guys put stuff in the shop for work. I find for them there is 20 that I dont want back though. I have to fix real farmers equipment too, and they can't stand having to wait while i Finish a pile of junk acreages equipment at hay or harvest time.
Regards Robert
 

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