5000 Oil Pressure Light Came On

Dave In Chattaroy · Dec 24, 2012

Gentlemen,
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
I have a 72 Ford 5000 that I've owned for about 5 years. A couple of days ago while I was moving snow, the oil light came on. I checked the oil level and was down about a half a quart. Topped it off and restarted the tractor with the same status. Next I did what I always do when I have issues with my Ford.....I went inside and started searching this site for past related posts. Next day I went and got an oil pressure guage and screwed it in in place of the switch. The needle never moved on the guage. Here's my question: what pressure does the pressure switch require to open? and what would be considered a normal operating pressure at say 1200rpm? I did some reading and it sounds as though dropping the sump and accessing the oil pump is a bit of an endeavor, so any insight would be great.
Thanks in advance, Dave

Bern · Dec 24, 2012

If in fact you truly have zero oil pressure, the switch is the last thing I'd be worried about if I were you. It sounds like something happened to the oil pump.

Remove the plug under the oil filter and check out the pump drive gear. That would be the first place I'd look for a problem.

souNdguy · Dec 24, 2012

many switches go off as low as 6 psi.

you may have either had a catastrophic loss of oil pressure.. or it has been gradually droppong to nothing.

GOOD LUCK! i love a 5000

Anonymous-0 · Dec 25, 2012

i would drop pan and inspect screen on oil sump to see if it is bloacked first. neighbor had same problem couple years back on a 800 and brought it to me with same problems. i had to pull pan and found jb weld that was patching pin holes on oil pan fell off and plugged screen. bad part is the engine is a reman from a tractor salvage yard in our area they purchased 2 years prior. nice quality rebuild!

Dave In Chattaroy · Jan 2, 2013

Thanks for the replies. Between the holidays and needing to build a hoist to remove my loader, I'm just now getting to the oil pressure issue. I did order a new switch that I installed with the same result.
Bern, the plug that you refer to located under the oil filter....I assume that it cannot be reused, will that be a ford part or something that can be picked at Napa?
Dave

showcrop · Jan 3, 2013

Since you mention dropping the oil pan to be a bit of an endeavor, I expect that yours has the cast iron pan. If you do need to drop it, the job can be made easier by instead of removing the bolster, replace the two bolts that go into the motor with some about four inches longer. then after removing the ones into the pan you can just slide the bolster ahead. You will still want a jack under the pan to lower it.

Dave In Chattaroy · Jan 3, 2013

Thanks for the tip Showcrop! You are correct that the oil pan is cast iron. Since I just liberated the tractor from the loader last night. My plan is to try and inspect the oil pump shaft via the knockout/freeze plug thingy located under the oil filter. It appears that the front axle assembly may also need to off as well?? Just trying to figure out how far down the rabbit hole I'm going to go in order to remove the sump.

Dave

showcrop · Jan 3, 2013

(quoted from post at 08:02:48 01/03/13)
Thanks for the tip Showcrop! You are correct that the oil pan is cast iron. Since I just liberated the tractor from the loader last night. My plan is to try and inspect the oil pump shaft via the knockout/freeze plug thingy located under the oil filter. It appears that the front axle assembly may also need to off as well?? Just trying to figure out how far down the rabbit hole I'm going to go in order to remove the sump.

Dave

You shouldn't need to remove the axle. It will help you to manage the bolster when you pull it ahead. you will have to disconnect a few things like steering, radiator hoses, oil cooler etc.

Dave In Chattaroy · Jan 5, 2013

I popped out the plug under the oil filter and could see that the oil pump shaft was spinning properly. So I'm onto removing the oil sump.

The front axle looks like it is attached at two points and secured with two pins. The rear pin seems to be attached to the cast sump? Is that the case?

I'm getting the bolts today and planning on trying to sliide the front bolster forward.

Also replacing most of the steering parts and alternator upgrade while it's all torn apart. Are there any other high wear items that I should be looking to replace while I have it apart? This 5000 has 7700 hrs on it and while I've owned it for the last 5 years I have no idea of it's previous history.

Anymore thoughts or advice on the bolster seperation is appreciated!

Dave

5000 Oil Pressure Light Came On

Dave In Chattaroy

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Bern

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souNdguy

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Anonymous-0

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Dave In Chattaroy

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showcrop

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Dave In Chattaroy

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showcrop

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Dave In Chattaroy

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