(quoted from post at 05:16:12 11/15/12) Gap for points is .25. Firing order is 1-2-4-3 CLOCKWISE starting with #1 at rear of distributor. You need to switch #2 & #3 wires according to how you presently have them connected.
(quoted from post at 20:35:24 11/14/12) Thank you so much! I have been searching the forums with my phone all evening in the shop and COULDN"T FIND A THING regarding the firing order and point gap. I guess I didn't know how to use the search cause I'm sure it is on here. I did see ONE post and it said the firing order was CCW with #1 at the front of tractor. hah.
/quote]Well, RTR, if it don't run as you have been told, don't give up..........#1 CAN be any one of the 4 holes in cap.....it just depends on how someone installed the distributor. Rear, front, toward engine, away from engine is all arbitrary. Factory did it one way, but any of the 4 are equally fine.......as said, just depends on how distributor was installed. If one doesn't work for you, just rotate every wire one slot & try again and after 4 tries you will have covered all possibilities.(quoted from post at 05:16:12 11/15/12) Gap for points is .25. Firing order is 1-2-4-3 CLOCKWISE starting with #1 at rear of distributor. You need to switch #2 & #3 wires according to how you presently have them connected.
O! :roll:(quoted from post at 22:03:21 11/14/12) I am thinking here, but wouldn't 1243 in one direction be 1342 in the other. Do the first two pistons come up together?
(quoted from post at 09:18:37 11/15/12) The N-series front mount distributor is CCW but the
Hundred series round distributor is CW. I made the
same mistake once on my 850. It only takes once!
(quoted from post at 17:12:53 11/16/12) Here is the way I've got it wired. I will check the points gap tomorrow with a gap gauge. I bought a new one today. I fires right off but backfires and spits and sputters and won't stay running.....or begin to. I never touched the distributor so the timing shouldn't be off. All I did was remove the dist. cap and rotor button and tape over the "dust cap" while painting. Points, plugs, rotor button, condenser, coil, and plug wires are all NEW.
The tractor had sat outside and i worked on it for a little over 1 year before finishing it. It has been a "backburner" project. Is it possible that the valves could have gotten stuck while sitting?? It ran PERFECT when I drove it to where it was in July 2011.
(quoted from post at 18:50:38 11/16/12)
Spring clip? Was the new one supposed to come with one? The rotor button is really tight once put on the center of the distributer. It's actually kinda hard to tell if it is down on it in the correct place it is such a tight fit.
This is my first Ford to fix up, so I really don't know what the spring clip is. I'm used to Farmalls. ha.
(quoted from post at 19:19:29 11/17/12)(quoted from post at 18:50:38 11/16/12)
Spring clip? Was the new one supposed to come with one? The rotor button is really tight once put on the center of the distributer. It's actually kinda hard to tell if it is down on it in the correct place it is such a tight fit.
This is my first Ford to fix up, so I really don't know what the spring clip is. I'm used to Farmalls. ha.
There is supposed to be a little spring clip on top of the shaft, under the rotor. It could have stayed on when you pulled the rotor off but my experience is that it almost always pops off.
(quoted from post at 22:57:25 11/16/12) OK, now that you have the order down & have tried your RED position, [color=red:52f37c20ff]try each of the other 3 positions shown[/color:52f37c20ff]. Same order, but different timing.
would look for blockage in small line to gauge, since I think that if oil pump were doing nothing, it wouldn't sound like it does in your video after running for 4 minutes without oil.(quoted from post at 17:04:29 11/17/12) I actually noticed the myself. I looked and the gauge I hooked up. After I shut it down I unhooked the line going into the gauge and started it back up. I have no oil coming through the tube. What could be the problem. ???
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